mtnpat
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Posts posted by mtnpat
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Getting ready to pull the motor in my 07 Outback basic 5-speed and could use some help.
I did a clutch job as well as timing belt/pulleys and water pump replacement at about 90k miles. At that time I also replaced a slightly leaking rear main seal.
I am at 125k miles now and have a pretty good leak going. I am going to pull the engine soon and replace rear main seal again along with valve cover gaskets (had oil in spark plug wells at 90k).
On an 07, should I reseal the oil separator plate for good measure? Replace it?
What about oil pan and cam seals, or anything else?
Thanks!
-mtnpat
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OK, motor is in!
I did pull motor back out of engine compartment and made sure clutch alignment tool was centering disk and with pilot bearing as well as it could. Then I just got in front of motor by myself (previously was using two people, one on each side of motor) and man-handled motor into position and got it started onto shaft. Then some small nudges on the 22mm crankshaft nut on front of motor to make sure splines were aligning, and it found its way home. Then a slow pull in using the tranny to motor bolts and she was done. Aligned motor mounts, exhaust and set her in position.
Thanks for your help.
-mtnpat
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Did you center the pilot tool when tightening the bolts on the pressure plate or did you let hang all on it's own? If you just hang the disc it will be out of alignment. You need to wiggle the alignment tool all the way up, down, left, and right, to find the center right after the pressure plate starts to grab the disc.
I did NOT center the pilot tool as you suggest, I just let it hang. Going back out to see about doing it right. Makes sense, as I remember after installing clutch and removing and re-inserting pilot tool, it was a tight fit.
Seems like I am not even getting the shaft starting into pilot bearing.
Be back in a few.
-mtnpat
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2007 Outback 2.5 basic
Removed motor to install new clutch and now need to re-install engine.
Any tips on how to get the motor and manual tranny back together that last inch?
I have a pretty good alignment angle between the engine and tranny, the two lower studs are in their holes. I can't seem to get the input shaft from the tranny into the clutch and back of the motor (pilot bearing).
The tranny is out of gear so the input shaft will spin, I was hoping it would find its own rotational position by itself so the splines line up. I'm thinking its the tight tolerances between the tip of the tranny shaft and the pilot bearing.
Tranny is jacked up some, motor mount studs are clearing the frame by about an inch.
Any tips?
Thanks!
-mtnpat
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Never mind I got it.
I was able to remove it with this tool and pressing on the inside of the yellow plastic part of the quick disconnect.
Not sure how you would be able to get it with a metal disconnect tool, this because you have to get over and past the first ridge in the fuel line to push in on the plastic part and release the connector from the second ridge. With the plastic tool, I was able to force it into the connector and get it to come apart.
-mtnpat
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Can't figure out how to undo the fuel disconnect on my 07 Outback.
Which part am I squeezing, pushing, pulling, etc? I assume the yellow plastic part. I have tried squeezing with the tool below but it did nothing.
Will this cheap rump roast tool do the job?
Thanks
-mtnpat
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Check your instrument panel water temperature guage to see if your engine is over heating, the next time you hear the noise. I would guess that it isn't. After my own two experiences with loose vibrating shrouds making a shrill "zzzzzzzzz" type sound, I vote for the same problem on your car, if indeed that is what you are hearing.
Now if you are hearing just a bunch of clicks and ticking sounds upon turning off the motor after driving the car for a while, then that is normal with Subies. That noise is not caused by over heating, but just normal noise produced by the hot exhaust system as it cools off.
Not overheating. I thought possibly something was obstructing the exhaust system causing it to get hot, or maybe the engine running to rich and dumping extra fuel through and into the exhaust, but not the case the engine is running fine and there are no check engine lights.
The clicks and ticks are constant, while driving and after you turn it off. I doubt this is normal.....haven't heard any others do it, and the last one I owned didn't do it.
It's been a while, but the last couple of new cars that I got seemed to do this very thing when they were new. I just ignored it and it went away.Seems to be related to the metal on the exhaust heatshields contracting/expanding with temperature change. Although I'd get under there and hammer away or add additional clamping on my old used car, I'd be reluctant to do that on a new one. The dealer should be able to fix easily for you.
Steve
Car is not new....over 1 year old with 20k miles. Too loud to ignore.
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Yep, had same problem on both my 98 and 99 Outbacks. I fixed both by driving my car up on plastic ramps, then crawling under the car while the engine was idling. I turned on the A/C to add some extra load to the engine, resulting in a little more engine vibration. Wearing some thick gloves, I wiggled and tapped on the exhaust system protective shrouds, until I found the loose shroud that was vibrating to produce the noise. I fixed the problem by finding a good size bolt, that I hammered into place as a wedge between the shroud and the exhaust pipe. The insertion of the bolt tightened up the shroud, so it doesn't vibrate. It is a very low tech solution for a low tech noisy problem, but it works. It is a cheap and easy fix.
So you think it is related to a loose shield or shield bolt, and not necessarily a heat (overheat) issue?
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Has anyone else experienced this?
07 Outback basic, 5-speed, 20k miles
About one week ago the heat shields around the front of the exhaust system, directly under the engine started popping and pinging....making that 'I'm hot, metal expanding/contracting' noise. It does this all the time, whether driving in stop and go traffic, or cruising along at 65mph on a 70 degree day. I could be driving down the interstate and as soon as I come down the off ramp and pull up to a stop I can hear the exhaust making noise. Or driving to work on a cool morning and pulling into the parking garage, shut the engine off and listen to it ping, ping and ping some more as I walk away from the car into building. It is pretty loud and sort of embarassing.
I don't believe anything is missfunctioning, the engine seems to be running normally and the exhaust system does not seem abnormaly hot.
I am going to take it to the dealer as soon as I can, but for now was wondering if anyone else has experienced this and how it was fixed?
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I did a dumb thing and left my key in the aux position and drained the battery on my 2007 Outback. A quick jumpstart got the engine going with no problem, but now I am down on horsepower, especially at low RPMs. All electrical systems seem to work fine, no check engine lights, etc.
Does the computer have to re-learn proper fuel mixtures and timing or something?
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Getting ready to change my plugs to try and cure the dreaded Subaru pinging, and was wondering how many steps colder I should go?
I don't know what is in there now, but just for arguements sake let's say they are BKR5E-11. Should I try BKR6E-11 or BKR7E-11?
Try one or two steps colder to try and cure pinging?
THANKS
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He didn't mention a CEL or likely someone would have suggested the knock sensor. Plus - it may very well be that, if the sensor were bad, the ECU would default to the safest timing map. I dunno. Anyone actually confirm 87 RON is proper for that vehicle?
Carl
No CELs have ever come on, and the dealer has never seen any bad codes or whatever.
As drxflyboy said, I hope it is just a defective knock sensor. I think whether the dealer I take it to actually hears the knocking or not, I will insist they change the knock sensor.
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Have you tried a better brand of regular gas to see if it goes away?
nipper
Well, I have 2 Chevys and 1 Honda that run fine on the same gas that I use in the Subaru. I shouldn't have to take special measures for the Subaru, unless that is the Subaru is an inferior vehicle. If that is the case I will get rid of it.
But to answer your question, I have tried other brands of 87 and it didn't help. The only thing that helped was running 91.
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2 possibilities come to mind:
Lean mixture-problem with O2 sensor.
Defective anti-knock sensor.
Possibly both.
Vacum leak would be a possibility in older cars but the O2 sensor should compensate for.
Can you take the car to a dealer that treats the customers better than that (I know, hard to find)? You also have SOA and lemon law as possible resources.
thanks FJ for the tips.
yes, gonna take it to a different dealer. Will report back when/if I get it fixed.
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As you probably know, "Knocks and pings" is a farly general description (are we talking "detonation", or preignition"?), and can have several causes. If the problem came on suddenly at 13k miles, then you need to investigate what changed mechanically/electronically at that mileage.
Well I will use the term "knock", because gasoline is rated as "AKI", or "Anti Knock Index" and the engine has a "knock sensor"
If the dealer has verified that engine timing, mixture, running temperature, EGR, etc. are okay, and you're using the correct grade of fuel, then maybe something as simple as a can of combustion chamber cleaner might help. Admittedly, at 13,000 miles carbon isn't usually a problem, but certain conditions can cause it even at low mileage.I tried the combustion chamber cleaner once, a long time back, didn't help. I like you, didn't really expect it to, as at that low of mileage I assumed no buildup of carbon deposits.
A bit more info as to when the knocking occurs (engine hot/cold, accelerating/cruising, level/uphill, etc.) might permit better advice.It happens any old time. Winter/Summer, night/day, hills/no hills, cruising along with just me in the car and no cargo. It seems to just knock sometimes, other times it does not knock. No pattern I can come up with.
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are you sure it's recommended to use 87? i figure it is, just checking. it's not a turbo 2.5?
manual says 87
normally aspirated
I bought a non-turbo specifically so I did not have to run 91.
some states have different regulations for gas in the winter to reduce pollution, might have better luck in the summer if VA does the same.does that same thing, Summer or Winter
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I have a 2005 Baja with the normally aspirated 2.5 engine and 33k miles.
Since about 13k miles, the engine knocks and pings when using 87 aki gas. If I run 91 aki gas it is fine, HOWEVER, I am not running 91 in a engine that should run on 87. My new 454 and 350 Chevys run fine on 87...I guess their anti-knock sensors actually work, or they have lower compression ratios.
Anyway, I have had the car back to the dealer twice and they say there is nothing wrong with it. I have also tried several different gas stations, doesn't seem to make a difference.
Question - I am due for a spark plug change. Would changing to a different heat range of spark plug help the problem?
thanks
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My friend has a 96 Outback with a manual transmission, and has been told that the center diff is going out on it. He says that after driving at highway speeds for extended periods of time, then slowing to in town driving speeds, there is a groaning noise when making turns.
Unfortunatley an independant mechanic diagnosed it as a rear diff issue, and replaced it with a rebuilt unit. Problem is still there. He took it to a Subaru dealer, and they said the center diff (viscous coupling) is dieing. They said something like that the diff is getting hot and not acting as a differential, instead it is locking up.
Anyone else experience this? My buddy doesn't have a lot of money, and is wondering how long he might be able to continue to drive it without it blowing up. Anyone want to venture a guess?
thanks
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I have an 05, non-turbo, automatic, garnet red, 20k miles.
Good:
Handling, Winter driving, gas mileage, style, carrys my bicycles in the bed nicely (most important).
Bad:
Engine started knocking and pinging about 5k miles back, even under normal light-duty driving conditions. I guess this could happen with any modern 2.5 liter Subaru engine. Car is actually at the dealership right now, I will report back and let you know if they fixed the issue.
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Anyone else? Just wondering if damage would be done to the center diff if rear end is disabled (driveshaft removed).
thanks
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Question: the rear differential on my buddys late 90s Outback is on its last leg. He doesn't have the money to get it fixed or replaced right now, so I was wondering if removing the rear drive shaft was a good option? Would the center differential then send 100% of the power to the front, without damaging the center diff?
I don't have the details on year, engine, etc, but I can find out.
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"CEL" stands for "Check Engine Light."
Duh, silly me. No CELs. Still might take it to the dealer to have it checked out.
So what octane is everyone else running, and do you experienced any knocking?
thanks again
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Don't know what a CEL is, and I haven't had it to the dealer to check for codes.
On a Chevy, some magic happens to retard the timing with the knock sensor senses the detonation, does a Subaru do the same thing?
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I have an 05 2.5 litre normally aspirated Baja with 14k miles on it, and since about 10k miles, have noticed the motor knocking and pinging (pre-detonation?) when under load...it actually does it quite often.
I run 87 octane unleaded, as stated in the owners manual. I have tried changing where I by my gas, but that has not helped. I have not yet tried running 89 octane.
What octane gas does everyone else run?
Anyone use combustion chamber cleaners / fuel additives to combat the knocking?
Anyone ever heard of a knock sensor going bad (I think the 2.5 has one)?
Thanks!
Cover me I'm going in! (after an oil leak)
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by mtnpat
The rear main seal was definitely leaking before a little bit, but was leaking worse AFTER I replaced it that is for sure! I know now I should have left it alone.
So any tips for installing a rear main seal correctly, given the crankshaft is smooth and un-grooved? What's the trick?
On the oil separator plate, can I just re-seal the factory plate or do I need a different one?
Thanks Again!
-mtnpat
PS: Never mind, I found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113361&page=4