Lakesong

Output shaft won't go all the way in. Splines engage but only about 1/4in. I'm sure c clip is preventing sliding on the rest of the way. Do I just drive it on?

I can't find dipstick for gear oil. I'm looking on passenger side of tranny but can't find.

Clip still on shaft.

Oil that came out is dark brown. Gear oil? How to check? Also cv is definitely shot boot torn, tons of play.

Passenger side cv gone bad on my 1995 legacy auto trans. Pulled out of my parts car a 97 manual trans legacy. Are these interchangable. The 97 looks larger, shaft diameter thicker and joints look beefier. Are these interchangeable?. Also when I removed cv axle from the working 1995 the splined shaft came out of tranny followed by tranny fluid. Doesn't appear damaged so I just pushed it back in. But before I proceed wanted to verify if I have a bigger problem here or anything special needs to be done to avoid a bigger problem.

Okay ,got her going. Rechecked fuel flow before filter. This time nothing, explains why not c arching at all. Swapped out fuel pump from parts car and bam she's good . Have run for 2 days now,put on over 100 miles .no issues. Problem solved. My guess was when I checked fuel earlier ,when she would start but die when engine warmed and idle dropped,fuel flowed but didn't gush ,pump was failing, still pumping gas but not enough pressure. So would run when cold and idling high enough to keep from stalling but when warm idle dropped and she starved and stalled. Does that make sense. Pump finally quit altogether creating no start at all situation. Any way the dogs are happy one as am I. Thanks to all for your. Input.

Won't start now but before I swapped out sensors would start when cold idle at between 1500-2000 as engine warmed would idle down to @ 750. As approached normal operating temp but before thermostat opened(radiator still cool) would idle down to @ 500 and then stall. Would generally only crank but not fire after that. If I shut her off before it got hot enough to stall was able to restart. When she fires up now ,with the aid of starter fluid, she only runs about 5-10 sec and dies. Giving it gas does nothing.

All hoses connected securely. Does fact engine fires and then dies with a shot of starter fluid mean I have spark even though I don't see spark when I pull wire put plug in it and touch to manifold while cranking?

Checked codes and sure enough showed crank sensor circuit issue. Found one of the leads broken. Fixed that. Now no code, but still no go. Cranks strong but.... When I pull a plug wire ,put in one of the plugs I just replaced and ground plug to engine I don't see a spark like I did before replacing sensor. However a shot of starter fluid and she fires up and dies, wouldn't that indicate a spark? Anyway I'm gonna take everything apart that got moved when replacing the sensors mentioned above and make sure no other connections where compromised. But then what? Fuel pump?, computer? Anything else? Any way to test before swapping out with my parts car?

Put original cam sensor back in car . Still no spark.checked all connections,vacuuming hoses etc that I disconnected when swapping out temp sensor . No spark. What could I have done when swapping out sensors listed above that would create no spark situation? Original problem had spark would fire and run first thing in morning but stall just before reaching operating temp( gauge almost at normal operating location but thermostat I don't believe open as radiator still cool,not pressurized). I'm afraid to try anything else until I know why no spark now. Any ideas?

Thanks, I'll try that when I get it started again. Now she won't start second morning in a row. That was when I was generally able to get her to run. May need to switch back all the sensors I swapped out from my parts car. Won't get a chance to work on it again to Sunday. Will let you know what's up.

I had alternator tested out of vehicle. Can't get to run long enough to get somewhere to get tested in vehicle. Tested fine. Could this still be the issue.

Just tried to start . No go , just cranks. Does this sound like it could be an issue with fuel pump? If I listen by fuel filler with cap removed or at le tribal connection in bed of wagon I hear a click but nothing else when key switched to on position with car not running. Not sure what I should hear though. How can I test this. I'm at a loss. Anyone have any other ideas?

Yes, alternator tested ok. Swapped out crank and cam position sensors ,MAF sensor and engine coolant temp sensor from my parts car. No go. She cranks but won't catch. Will try again in morning. Seems to be the pattern, starts first thing in morning runs til almost at operating temp, stalls out and will not restart til next morning. Charging battery or jumping doesn't help. Will let you know if it starts tomorrow.

Swapped out engine temp sensor, charged up battery, fires right up this morning and stalls out again after a few moments. Planning on swapping out crank poison sensor , cam position sensor and will try MAF sensor as well if others don't help. Thanks

This morning fires right up, runs at @ 1500 rpm then settles to1100 rpm fairly quickly. Checked voltage at this point reads just under 14( @13.7 or 13.8. As temp rises rpm drops to @ 700. Same voltage reading. I shut her down at this point before she reaches normal operating temp. Let her sit @ 5 minutes. Starts up no problem. Idles for a few minutes, just before temp gauge reaches normal operating temp she stutters and immediately stalls. Try to restart, she catches stutters and stalls 1 time. After that she cranks strongly but no go. Battery shows 12 volts with key off, same with key on but not running. Also checked for bad ground as suggested above. I don't have digital voltmeter,used what I have. Needle didn't move on lowest setting(1/20 volt scale). I saw on another thread with some of same issues a suggestion @ a temp sensor, could this be issue. Will try to figure out which sensor this is and swap out from my parts car to check.

Tightened throttle cable to original setting ,disconnected battery and reconnected. Fires right up idles at @ 1100 rpm. As she warms up rpm slowly settles to @ 700. As temp begins rise before reaching operating temp ,rpm drop and engine stalls before I can give it some gas. Now cranks strongly but won't fire. Oh, I found a disconnected vacuuming hose the other day when car would start but idle surging up and down. Solved that issue. Rechecked today and found all normal.

Took battery out and had tested . Showed bad so bought new battery. Started right up, ran for @ 20 minutes or so then died. Wouldn't restart. Temp gauge was normal entire time. Threw charger on battery for a few hours and she fired up again. Let it sit for a day or so. Now won't start again.

A few other things. Checked spark all four cylinders. All firing. Also pulled hose coming out of fuel filter. Seemed good flow of gas ,doesn't gush out but flows fairly good especially when held below level of filter, or is this just siphoning gas?

Back in town. Yesterday Fully charged battery ,new plugs and wires. Also tightened throttle cable to race engine a little to keep her going long enough for me to get out of car and under hood. Still no start. She cranks strongly. Occasionally sputters but no go. A shot of starter fluid in air cleaner and she fires and runs for @ 10 sec then quits. Today got her to fire and start, then quit after @ 20 sec. After a few more tries got to fire again this time pumped gas a little and she smoothed out.took foot off gas and ran well Rams @ 2000. After a minute or so Rams dropped to @ 1250 on tach. Ran a bit rough but kept running. After a bit Rams jumped to 2000 again for 15 to 20 sec. Then back to 1250. Cycled like this 4 or 5 times before dropped from 2000 down towards 750 then stalled. Cranks but won't start. Have charger on battery waiting for cool Dow/charge to try again. Also tried starting with charger on jump start setting. No go. Does any of this fit with alternator issue that has been suggested? By the way I have a 1997 sub legacy to use as a parts car so can swap out any sensors or relays easily enough if needed. Only difference is the parts car is manual tranny and a 97. The (hopefully) working car is a96 with auto Tracy.

Yesterday tried to start so I could check temp gauge as it ran , would turn over but not start. Finally got to start but had to pump gas to keep running. After a bit ran without foot on gas for about a minute,temp gauge hadn't moved,then stalled. Again would crank occasionally stutter but not start. Changed out plugs and wires(remove windshield washer reservoir makes this not too difficult,wouldn't start. This morning tried again and fired up but again had to race engine to keep running. As it warmed up able to run at lower rpm, down to @1250 rpm. Below that she stalls. Temp gauge reads in normal range, still no codes showing and at oil temp light doesn't 't come back on. A any ideas on what to check next?

Thanks for suggestions. I didn't notice temp gauge. Will check that and do plugs and wires tomorrow. AT fluid is at proper level and appears clean.

I bought a 96 legacy a few months ago to use as a dog mobile for my for labs. It had hit several deer and looks bad but drove well,engine sounds very good, at tranny shifted smoothly. A few days ago my wife tried to jump a stuck motorist. A few miles down the road check engine light comes on and car stalls. Codes indicate misfire cylinders 3 & 4, plus code p1101 indicating a problem with neutral position switch. I checked plugs and wires on 3 & 4 plugs looked good but worn. Checked wires and it ran as normal. Next day after driving 20 min or so AT oil temp light comes on and engine stalls. Had to wait for engine to fully cool and car starts. Drove home,she seemed to shift normally but when I left idling for a while AT oil temp comes on and car stalls and will not start until cools down. Other than AT light not throwing any codes. My dogs would appreciate any help as would I.