Kristina
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Posts posted by Kristina
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You get a 5 speed swapped in? Hopefully not a 4 speed since 3rd always goes out in them. If you have any more problems with it bring to superior soobie and import.
5spd d/r
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Update: Auto trans is gone and so is the noise.
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I can't answer that.... what I have done with nearly every radiator I've had is tap the hole with a 1/8 or 1/4" pipe tap (depending on which will fit) , and screw in a real petcock with a short hose on the other end. Now I can catch all of the ccolant, instead of it getting all over the frame, etc.
Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn't thought of just tapping out the hole.
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Does anyone know the size of the radiator drain plug for the stock radiator in a '83 GL? I've tried a couple different sizes and it's driving me bananas so I figured I'd just ask.
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If i kept this car instead of selling it 2 years ago i would of swapped it to a 5 speed. How many miles are on the old girl now? Back then she only had 136k miles.
169k now. I bought it with 146... Or maybe 148, I don't remember.
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It's been a while but...
I took my wagon to the folks at Superior back in April. They had it for a few days then called and told me that they couldn't find anything wrong with it (besides a leaking power steering rack, which I knew about). They said that they were very impressed with the condition and how well it ran/drove for being an auto turbo and that I should be very happy with it. Of course that was great news, but I still had my doubts.
Since then, though I couldn't tell you when or why, the vrooming/vibration has gone away. I'm not sure which is more troubling, its presence or its sudden absence.
To address some of the suggestions above:
-head gaskets were done this past weekend so I know the flexplate is intact and the pistons are not cracked - at least not cracked on the face I could see.
-placing a stethoscope on the centerline of the engine block, the oil pan, or pretty much anywhere on the engine only leads me to believe that the sound is not coming from the engine.
My present theory is that it's a transmission based noise. The third video clearly shows that the noise changes when shifting from N to D and I am pretty sure that the noise changed when an adjustment was made to the vacuum diaphragm. Maybe the guys at Superior are right, the sound is normal and I have nothing to worry about... but maybe the ATF pump or something related is sad. Any thoughts?
And I know this is where people say "put a manual in it" but I'm not very comfortable driving a stick. It's still an option, just not one that I'm excited about.
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Update:
Replaced the trans mounts - both were broken, but the vibration/noise is still there. I did confirm that it makes the noise even without the car moving, so I guess that points toward exhaust leak?
Bought a stethoscope, but couldn't really chase down the other noise.
Did an oil change yesterday. Good news: no metal bits/chunks/flakes. Bad news: coolant
.This morning I left it in the hands of Superior Import Repair. I probably won't have them do the work, but I will gladly pay for a professional diagnosis.
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I have a 1985 Leone ea82 turbo. Last week I had that same noise start in my car. I pulled the motor and replaced the bearings on the crank. Noise is gone. It's a spun bearing. My guess.
How did you diagnose/figure out that's what it was? I don't want to rule out anything if the symptoms fit, but this is my 'to work and back' car so I don't really have the option of pulling things apart just to have a look around.
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I would check the motor and trans mounts.
I was getting a loud clunk that I could feel through the floorboard when I shifted into reverse. My other half found one loose and one broken transmission mount. He tightened the loose one and the clunking went away. I don't know why it didn't occur to me that the broken one might still be causing issues even though the clunking went away
. We've already got some new ones, just waiting for a day off with no rain to replace them. Another thought is the passenger side CV axle. I guess it goes bad due to its proximity to the turbo. -
The ticking sounds like it is at valve speed.
Almost sounds like a hydraulic lifter collaspes lower engine speed/oil pressure.
Definetly not normal.
Not sure about the higher RPM rumble and vibration.
Does it happan w/the car not moving?
It is not normal either.
The ticking sure sounds like a lifter or rocker arm issue, It is definitely at valve train speed.
The rumble isn't as clear, but from what I could pick up, there are two possibilities. Either exhaust or driveline vibration/drone. If you can duplicate it free revving or power braking it (IE, not moving) then it's exhaust.
I though about the lifter tick thing but every once in a while I get about two seconds of lifter tick when I start the car and its not quite the same sound as this - the lifter tick is faster and definitely more metallic sounding. I know everyone's computer sounds a little different... I added two more clips to the post, maybe that will help. The best way I can think to describe it is kind of like a baseball card flapping in the spokes of a bicycle wheel or a really quiet diesel engine. Also, in two of the clips when I accelerate from a stop the sound kicks up when I step on gas but then cuts out, kind of burbles, then goes back to being consistent - does that fit the hydro lifter/rocker arm/low oil pressure theory? (Note to self - an oil pressure gauge is probably a good idea.)
A far as the other sound/vibration goes, I am pretty sure it does not happen unless the car is moving but I have not verified that to 100% certainty. It is a very deep rhythmic sort of pulsating vrooom, vrooom, vrooom anywhere North of, oh, about 2800 RPM regardless of MPH, and grows in intensity as the RPMs increase.
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So, I'm still trying to figure out what is 'normal' for this car and what isn't. I am getting a really loud noise/vibration at around 3000 rpm so I tried to record it. That sound didn't come through on the audio very well, so I thought I'd ask about the sound that does. It's most apparent in the video at about 23+ seconds, where I am waiting to turn and then any time I am accelerating.
Video:
Edited to add two more videos:
I left the lens cap on in this one because the camera was in my lap to see if I could the sound with less background noise and I didn't want to make you all car sick:
And this one is just in my driveway when I got home from work. The sound is different when in gear vs. not:
Is that sound 'normal' or is there something I should be looking at to fix?
(Also, I googled "what does an exhaust leak sound like?" and this was by far the funniest answer: "I like to describe it as a weedwhacker on meth.")
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I pulled into the hardware store parking lot the other day and my wagon found a friend.
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Nothing mythical about them.
You could not have looked very hard.
Must be 25 of them on ebay.
You are correct. It would be more accurate for me to say that I did find many rebuild kits, but because of the lack of information on rebuilding them, mostly whether or not it was possible (and the large cracks in my turbo), I opted to just buy a functional one. I used the word mythical because I couldn't ever find the post "I successfully rebuilt the turbo from my '80s Subaru with such-and-such rebuild kit", so until you, I, or someone else does it... well, you know what they say: pix or it didn't happen
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+1 on the dye. I thought I had a headgasket issue until the dye showed it was leaking out of the turbo hoses then dripping down all over the place. It might not help in your case, but it definitely won't hurt either.
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I have absolutely nothing helpful to add, but the fact that your door chime comes on when the brake pedal is depressed is probably the funniest funky wiring issue I've read
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I've seen one pre 90 Subaru in the junk yard in the past 4 years.
We are a bit spoiled here in the Pacific Northwest as far as old Subaru parts go.
After looking for the mythical rebuild kit and not finding it I just bought a 'new' turbo. It was one of the first things we did after I bought my wagon, pull the turbo and inspect it. Mine was cracked to hell and the whirly bits were grindy with a ton of play. These guys: http://www.mttechsuba.com/used-subaru-parts/ are a really good source for parts. I bought my turbo from them - I don't know what the going rate is but I paid $75 for a non-cracked turbo with free-spinning whirly bits.
Two of the holes on the downpipe needed to be slotted slightly and the... elbow with the diamond shaped base... I don't know what it's called... that was on the 'new' turbo was too big, so we used the one off the old turbo.
'new" turbo:
old turbo:
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+1 to DaveT's comment. When the vacuum modulator goes ATF gets sucked into the vacuum lines and makes its way out the tailpipe in giant billowing clouds of white smoke, Seafoam style (ask me how I know
). Draining and inspecting the old ATF, checking all the hoses for blockages, then adding new ATF is a really good place to start.Also: Is your new wagon silver or blue, I can't tell from the pictures. I have a blue one, same gold trim bits. Mine is an 83 though, different grill and no sunroof.
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I PM'd you a link to an '83 FSM. EA81 instead of EA82, but the tranny stuff should be the same.
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More details on adjusting the vacuum modulator would be great. My wagon shifts up to third ridiculously fast. The modulator was blown when I bought it so it was the first thing I replaced. Good to know it's adjustable. Is it a fine adjustment or will I have to really turn that screw to make a difference?
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Also: my power steering pump sometimes sounds like a porcupine eating a pumpkin. (Tried to link tithe video, but no luck.)
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Oh man, my list is pretty long, but getting shorter. The most annoying one is the driver side front and rear speakers that crackle really loudly every time I hit a bump.
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On the temp gauge it would not reach halfway, maybe barely above 1/4th. I I have. 180 degree t stat in there as well.
Assuming the gauge is working, I'm pretty sure that is a good thing. Mine sits about there as well while driving around town. (I also have the 180 t-stat and a fan that comes on at 185).
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see if this is still in my Ctrl V buttons
yep, shout yourself one of these, ensure you find a 12V one with a range up to 120C before ordering as their values do vary in here, attach the temp sender to the metal of the engine by many methods - embed in a small block of ally bolted to engine block , fit up to a ring terminal, any handy 4mm hole ... different sort of thinking in way of monitoring what gets hot. lose all water and metal temp still keeps reading where some water sensors do not!
Oooh. Those look interesting. I pulled my AC but left the electric fan for it and have been scheming on a way to on/off it with engine temp.
Vintage plaid interior photos wanted
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I would kill for some of this blue striped fabric!