morkel

Fairtax4me, yes, what you said.

Fairtax4me, please see my complete reply at my original post here, Legacy clutch replacement problem(s), http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155370-legacy-clutch-replacement-problems/?p=1300412 Sorry for any confusion I may have caused. Basically I learned that the neutral switch can block the transmission from being put into gear, as well as keep one from starting this car. I did not know that.

Thanks for the replys. Luck and hope are all I have. Smarts, well that's a whole other issue. This turned out be 100% operator error. I know, big surprise. There was a lapse of time between my work sessions on this car. That did not help me. Lots of ins and outs. First, I screwed up the grounding, but in the meantime decided to jump the neutral switch at the clutch pedal because I broke the wires off of where it goes into the transmission. The car still would not start. Then I came back several days later to try again. Found my ground fault, started the car, but it would not go into gear. Then I cam back several days later (you get the idea). Wrote here, scratched my head a lot, thought about what I did and how I got to this point. (I'm sure I got the car into gear right after I installed the clutch). Went under the car, looked at the linkage from the shift lever while my wife tried to get it in gear. Then I noticed the neutral switch going into the transmission (with no wires attached), is right in line with the linkage. I pulled that sucker out and it goes into gear. Big mixture of elation and utter frustration. But yes! I did not have to take this thing apart again! Not even close! Now my son has his car back. Ta da, argh

Found it. It's the neutral sensor

I just installed a new clutch in my 96, Legacy Brighton. I adjusted the cable, and I can't get it into gear at all; not with the engine off or on. I've looked into the bell housing while my wife operated the clutch and I could see the fork move the bearing and the fingers of the pressure plate compress. I think I may have done something wrong during the installation. But I'm out of ideas.

I thought I would reply once more before taking this car apart again . I tightened the cable fully with barley any play. Then had my wife operate the clutch while I looked down into the bell housing at the clutch. I could see the release arm moving the bearing and the fingers of the pressure plate compress. I still can't engage the transmission into any gear, whether the car is running or not.

Thanks again, After your description of how the disk and pressure plate go together, I feel like I did that correctly. I'm here because I really don't want to take it apart again, but I will if necessary (my working conditions are abysmal). I'm going to try and think of anything else I can to check when I get some time. I'm still stumped with it not going into gear with the engine on or off. The clutch play spec. is about .5 inch, I think I have that. The stroke I have set is a little more than the 1 inch spec. I'm thinking about double checking the pedal height. I keep thinking it may be the release bearing and the new sleeve, but I can see them working through the lever opening, but only to a point.

Thank you for your reply Will not go into gear with engine on or off. The disk seemed to fit correctly. I believe you understood by attempt to describe my installment of the pressure plate. When I installed the plate, I believed I had it line up correctly (the nubs and the bolt holes), but it did not flush with the flywheel until I bolted it down. Meaning, I was not able to push it flush and had to use the bolts to cinch the plate to the flywheel, because it seemed like the disk and the plate where touching tight

I did find a ground problem. So the car starts. but it won't go into gear. I believe I adjusted the cable and peddle height correctly. The stroke is about 1-1/4 inches. It just won't go into gear, whether running or not.

Thank you very much Sooberoo. I'll recharge and check grounds and such.

96 Subie Legacy Brighton Wagon will not start after replacing clutch: I lowered the transaxle and replaced clutch components including a new release bearing and sleeve from Napa (Luk). I did id not have have the flywheel turned. I removed the flywheel, replaced pilot bearing and installed the flywheel First potential problem: When I placed the pressure plate over the disk, the two mating surfaces did not touch (Slight gap, I believe I had it lined up correctly). They only became flush after torquing the bolts down. This seemed strange to me (I've only replaced three other clutches on other vehicles, some luck involved), it felt like the pressure plate was immediately tight against the disk. Second: I doubt I torqued bolts properly. I'm seeing 132-144 lbs for the pressure plate! I adjusted the cable. tried to start, engine half turned over, faint grunt, then click, click, click Tried to start again, click, click, click Battery at 12.4 v. Attached charger on boost (13.4 v), half turned over, faint grunt, then click, click, click Removed charger, tried to start again, only dash lights no sound but fuel pump and injectors. Check neutral switch continuity, seems to have it I was able to manually turn crankshaft with wrench, removed starter and it now does not spin, had it tested and it's okay. Man oh man, what did I do?