slowner44

So I was finally able to remedy all the problems that have been plaguing my car since the swap. I figured I would return and document what I found in hopes it will help someone else in the future. First off, what made this fix most difficult was not being able to pull fault codes stored in the TCU. After going though inhibitor switches and tcus and individual wires, the issue was finally narrowed down to the Throttle Positioning Sensor. It turns out that the TPS was so far out of wack that the final step of the 'secret handshake' (pressing the accelerator) didn't register which is why codes couldn't be pulled. The only code that was making the light flash 16x at startup was for the TPS (Go figure). The torque bind issue also seemed to be remedied by re-calibrating the TPS. I learned the sensor was not set properly AFTER I went in to the transfer case and replaced clutches and the reduction drive gear so I cant be 100% sure if that had anything to do with the fix, but what I can tell you is that after replacing those parts, the car still had TB symptoms until readjusting the throttle sensor. Finally, the most recent issue I ran into upon putting the transmission back together was that the car now revved to about 4k rpm before shifting after start up, and then shifted about 500 rpm higher than usual for the rest of the ride. After the TPS was set within spec, I was able to pull codes and I was intermittently getting one for Vehicle Speed Sensor 1. Upon inspection, I had squashed the wire to that sensor when tightening the transfer case bolts. A simple re-solder fixed this and now it seems my baby is finally driving like she's supposed to. Sorry about the lengthy post, and thank you to everyone who gave their input!

I just cant help but feel its abnormal since it never did that before and its been like 80 degrees out lol. Also, it only does it in AWD, with the FWD fuse in it shifts normal (to me). I noticed that after putting the trans back together and putting the driveshaft back in, that the driveshaft did not rotate nearly as easily as it did before (trans in neutral, all 4 wheels off the ground both times). Perhaps something causing it to drag is raising the shift points?

UPDATE: So this past weekend I finally got around to opening up the transfer case and replacing the reduction drive gear/basket combo and the transfer clutches. I took it for its first spin since being put back together and the very first shift from 1st to 2nd didn't happen until about 3k, maybe 4k rpm. After that, it would shift from 1st to 2nd at 2.5k consistently but this is about 500 rpm higher than i'm used to. I didn't think much off it since its got new parts and new fluid and it probably needed to get the fluid flowing to the new parts. Next day, I drive it into town and again that FIRST shift after pulling out of my driveway was delayed to close to 4k rpm, then down to 2.5k. Get to my destination, the car sits for about 3-4 hours and does the same delayed initial shift and then its fine. Whats going on here? I cant help but think it has to be something with the reduction gear/shaft, but I don't know what exactly would cause it.

I wish I knew. It was a junk yard car.

Im starting to think this might be the most likely cause. I know it was driven for 2 miles with mismatched gears plus however much my mechanic drove it like that to test it out. It seems inevitable that I will need to open up the transfer case. Assuming I find that the basket is grooved, would I be able to use the basket from my stock SVX transmission? I'd need new clutches and a gasket and maybe a new C solenoid. Anything else I'm forgetting?

Trans code is TZ102Z2DCA. Has about 106k miles on it, and the extent of the maintenance history that I'm aware of is that it was filled with fresh fluid when the swap was first done, since then, the pan has been dropped and it has been refilled. Ive driven it less than 1000 miles since the swap. Also my understanding was that if the rear diff and trans FD did not match, there would be binding in a straight line. This was the case when I originally swapped it so I had the rear diff rebuilt by my mechanic to correct this.

Wouldnt the fact that putting the FWD fuse in alleviates the binding indicate that the duty C is functioning properly?

So I just referenced an online FSM of a 98 Legacy to the SVX FSM I have at home and the pins from the transmission harness all seem to correspond to the same TCU functionality for both. The car shifts and drives fine with the swap other than the Binding. Also the other TCU I tried was from another SVX. While I was digging in the manuals, however, I found something saying that the Vehicle Speed Sensor 1 (on the transfer case) can cause excessive braking in tight turns. A diagram seemed to suggest that the signal the VSS1 gets is from the transfer clutch pack, so I'm not sure if this could be the problem.

I have a 1993 Subaru SVX with a 4.44 4eat from a 98 Legacy GT and it is suffering from the infamous torque bind issue. So I've been doing reading on this for a while and fortunately there seems to be a lot out there on this issue so I already have a bit of an idea on what the causes of my issue might be. 1) Duty Solenoid C 2) Bad Transfer Clutches 3) Tire Inconsistencies 4) Rear Diff More Background Info: -The car had no TB before the 4.44 trans and rear diff swap -Torque Bind Disappears when put in FWD mode -There is 16 Flashes at startup but gives no codes when doing procedure or hooked up to a Subaru Select Monitor -Ive tried a different TCU and nothing changed -Adding 10oz of Lubegard Red seemed to help a bit at first when doing some figure 8's but now 100miles later it almost seems like it reverted back to how it was (maybe just placebo) So I'd say the solenoid is not the issue since FWD cures the TB. Is it safe to assume that this also indicates that the tires are not the issue? I guess that leaves the transfer clutches and the rear differential (which was rebuilt by my mechanic with 4.44 gear but SVX LSD carrier) I read somewhere that flushing the trans 3 times cured their torque bind, but I've also heard horror stories about how flushes destroy the 4eat. What should my next step be?

Its an automatic. The connectors matched up, but I dont think he tried starting it in neutral. Im trying to get a list of things to try before replacing the NSS so I can rule everything else out so im not constantly going back and forth with my mechanic

So my 1993 Subaru SVX is currently at my mechanics where I had him put in a 4.44 Final Drive transmission from a 98 Legacy GT. Got the trans in and the modified rear diff in and went to start the car with no luck. He said the lights came on but wouldn't start. He thinks its the Neutral Safety Switch from the new tranny needs to be swapped out for the one off the old tranny. I don't want him to do this just to find out its something else and still have to pay for it, so is there anything else that would prevent the car from starting when a different trans is put in? Any help is greatly appreciated.

So I found out that both the LSD 4.44 diffs wouldn't have worked because the axles on the svx are unique to only the svx. So back to swapping in the LSD carrier from my car into a donor diff housing... Would a 2003 Forester rear diff work as it is 4.44 but not sure if its R160 or something else?

There were subaru OBs with an H6 before 2000?

Normally for the rear diff in a 4.44 svx swap, you would need to grind out some space in the housing of the donor rear and transfer the stock svx LSD carrier inside of it. However, I've found a JDM 4.44 rear diff from a '02-'05 WRX STi (R160) with 5 bolts on the side plates. Would I be able to use this instead of modifying an open diff?

So I take it this particular transmission was listed incorrectly? I was going to purchase a trans with the rear diff as a set but that plan isnt looking too good now. So when I buy a rear diff seperately does it matter what phase it is? I imagine it would just need to have the 4.44 gears, right? Thanks much for your help!

So I'm looking to swap in a 4.44 ratio auto trans into my 1993 Subaru SVX. From what I've learned thus far, all legacy/outbacks/foresters from the 90's with a 2.5L engine have the 4.44 gear ratio transmission. It is also to my understanding that any of these transmissions from before 98 (and some 98's) are the Phase I varients that I need. However, as I am shopping around for a donor tranny, I found one listed as from a 1999 Legacy with a 2.5L DOHC H4 and the transmission is labeled TZ102Z2DBA which I got the impression meant is a Phase I. Here is the listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-Legacy-Automatic-Transmission-/330560452039?fits=Year%3A1998|Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4cf6f035c7&vxp=mtr So I guess I'm just confused is this a Phase 1 Transmission because of the TZ102Z2 designation or is it Phase 2 because its a '99? Thanks in advance for any input!