smokeeater495

Went to unplug the downstream 02 sensor and found it very loose in the bung, not sure how that happened as I installed it recently. Still no start. We tried ether and it acted like it was going to try to fire, still didn't. Pulled line off fuel filter, pressure good. So to recap. New fuel pump after no start problem, new CTS, new fuel filter, new plugs and has spark. All vacuum lines look correct. The car was running before. Frustrated.

Update. Still won't start. New plugs, old ones were mildly carboned. Changed oil, slight smell of gas. Cranks over, tries to fire when pedal is pushed to floor. Blue cloud from exhaust, smells like gas. So she was flooded. Still wont start. Pulled timing belt covers, all looks good inside. Timing marks look correct.

The CTS was broken, connector separated from the brass base. Thinking the engine is flooded now. Going to pull the plugs and see.

Thanks will check coolant temp sensor.

I've been slowly bringing a 1998 Legacy Outback back to life. Replaced full exhaust and cat. Installed downstream oxygen sensor thinking it was the only one needed. Threw code, did more research, learned about upstream sensor, installed. Car ran and drove although a little rough with just the downstream O2 sensor. Car refuses to start with upstream installed, even unplugged the harness, no change. Just pops and sputters. Have good fuel pressure. No codes when checked with scan tool. Going to try ECU reset when I get home tomorrow. Any thoughts as to where to go next. It's just odd as I drove the car about three weeks ago.

WTDash, thanks for the awesome reply with the data to back it up.

I just got done swapping a set of WRX struts onto my 1998 Legacy Outback wagon. It currently has a set of dry rotted 205/70-15 tires on it. Will 205/60-15's fit without any rubbing issues?

I think it might be too loud and drone badly. I am replacing the exhaust on my 1998 Legacy Outback wagon and have everything back to but not including the muffler. It would be annoyingly loud to drive it like that.

Any links to pics, torqe bind?

I didn't want to make the original post too long. Yes, the U joint failed. I bought this car in non running condition for $200.00. Wasn't running because someone hacked the wiring harness trying to put in a remote starter. I have that sorted. Engine runs great now. The front u joint was completely destroyed. It looks like they drove it that way for a while too because it took a chunk out of the tail housing when it finally came apart.

I have a 1998 Legacy Outback wagon with a 4EAT auto transmission. The transmission tail shaft housing is cracked and leaking like a sieve. I have found a replacement housing. Is the swap an easy job or complicated?

Well I finally got my $200.00 wagon running. The previous owner cut the cats out of the exhaust as he thought the car was dead. Looking for some economical replacement cats. I see some single cat systems available. Since they have bungs for both O2 sensors, do I really need a second cat?

Now I need to figure out why the key won't release from the ignition. It won't rotate into the lock position.

The car is now running. I removed the aftermarket remote starter from the factory wiring harness. Who ever installed it did not follow the instructions. They tapped into or cut the wrong wires. We restored the harness to factory condition and she fired right up. I want to thank everyone for their guidance and suggestions.

The thin brown wire that should go to the reset button has been spliced into the remote start box.

I did that. They said the unit is supposed to be piggy backed onto the factory wiring and simply unplugging it will take it out of the equation. Who ever installed it cut and spliced it into the Subaru harness. So, I need to figure out which wires can be jumped or connected to restore factory function.

It has the factory keyless entry box also.

Did that a week ago, does not work.

It goes up into dash by factory radio.

I'm pretty sure now that the remote start box is the issue. The manufacturers instructions show piggy backing wiring onto the existing harness. Who ever installed it cut factory wires and reconnected to the Omega remote start. I believe that is all of my problems. Time to remove the remote start and rewire to factory original.

So far I have tried all suggestions. I am unable to locate a reset button. When connecting the battery a relay can be heard clicking in the keyless entry box and the tail lights flash. I checked for voltage to the starter down the main cable, got battery volts. Turned key and no voltage down signal wire to starter. Jumpered the trigger post and starter bumped engine. I spoke with the remote starter manufacturer and they said all wires in their unit are piggy backed and nothing interrupts vehicle harness. So I'm back to the keyless entry box and a dead Legacy. Does anyone know what color wires go to the reset switch? I have spent a lot of time under the dash and can't find the button.

The engine does not crank. I can hear a relay in the passengers foot well area.The keyless entry box continues to click too.

Does anyone have any further. I'm getting frustrated with this car. I unplugged the keyless entry box and followed all the wires. I can't find the reset switch.

Automatic transmission. I can hear a relay clicking in the Keyless Entry box up in the drivers footwell far left side, it has 3 connectors going into it. Also the little red light on the dash is flashing. The test mode connectors were connected, I unplugged them. I removed the power cable for the remote start box from the battery positive post. Still no luck.