
entyceingvws
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Everything posted by entyceingvws
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Thanks. I am looking at my Auto options...I am considering the the 96-98 Outback 4.44 since that is the SVX go to swap with the EG33. Im building a Mid engine Vanagon. So Basically one the rear drive stuff is either removed or disengaged then the trans knows it will send all power to the front? I can find FWD only trans's but not sure how strong they are compared to later models? I am also looking now at a "EJ20H Twin Turbo" auto trans, any feedback as to strength comparison between this and the trans mentioned above? Thanks
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Hi All. I have done many many hours of research on this topic in many forums and online. I understand the fuse process and that is all the info I have found. There seems to be a lot of debate and confusion as to this being a viable option or not. I am open to this option if it is actually a good option. I know it can be done based on the following build link. They put an entire mid 2000's WRX drive train as a mid engine set up in a 72 bus and made the trans FWD only... http://www.diversstreetrods.com/vw-bus--fabrication.html Anyone know how to do this? I am trying to contact them but not much luck so far. Thanks Tyce
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Update and conclusion. I passed safety and emissions inspection today. (Utah) The main code I was throwing was P0505 which has to do with the IAC valve. After a lot of youtube videos I figured out how to clean it...initially it didnt stop the error code but within is few days apparently the computer reset(?) and the code was gone and is staying gone. I didnt need to replace the Intake Manifold. I used the 2.2 engine with 5 speed trans and ECU from donor car as well as I plugged back in the TCU which also seemed to help and the cruise control works now. I grounded pins 51/81 and hooked up the NSS to pin 78 (if I recall properly). Thanks again for your help Wtdash.
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OK. I did as you mentioned on page 1 about letting cyclical codes come onand drove the car 20+ miles to see if I can get all the CEL's to come on and the only one still as of today is the P05050 which has to do with the IAC. I poured Sea Foam in through the tube that you tap into to clean out the valve (as per a few youtube videos) and then cleared the codes and the CEL came back on. Do you recall what codes are related to EGR? Based on my first codes and posts it seems like EGR is not affected? Unless the P0505 is directly related to the EGR? I also will pull the valve and clean it out...Thanks!
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Sorry. I try to be as clear as I think I am which is also why I repeat what you say so I can hopefully not only make sense and be understood but also hopefully understand...simple attempt at clarity...When I said "New..." I meant the new one I bought today since it has EGR hoses going into the TB. Ill look at both, the 2.2 and the 2.5 and see how close they are and make a judgement call as to which one to use. So based on your comments of the 3 plugs...it seems that the 2 big gray ones are not going to be connected to anything. Thanks!
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OK, Ill give it a shot. I will install entire intake manifold, with original TB and not the new 2.2 EGR set up. I have all the EGR harness with with fuel injection parts attached on the new manifold...Do I do anything with the wire harness plugs that are set up for the Auto and not used for 5speed? There are 3 total and the original 2.5 had 4 total plugs...
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Thanks. i still have the charcoal canister passenger side front still there. So instead of using the new TB I just bought today thinking it would be good to have it since the vacuum lines are different...Your suggesting to use the TB off of the original engine? I have studied your "How To" link and your automatic set up is what was throwing me. Thank for the clarity.
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Hey WTDASH. I just bought another 2.2, EGR intake manifold with everything on it...Throttle body with hoses coming from EGR...Etc. My manual throttle body does not have the extra fitting s for the hoses from EGR. Do I need to use the EGR Throttle body? I even got all the Automatic wire harness. Does it matter? Should I swap manual harness over? Or do the EGR hoses even matter? Just want to do it right the first time... Thanks!
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Thanks. Looking into that and with about 10 more miles on it...(just got a temporary sticker so I can actually drive it legally) so far no Codes have been thrown but another problem has surfaced...(not sure if I should make a new post...? Probably) Car sat for a day or so and battery was dead...(new battery) checked alternator and was dead, put in another alternator last night and while running, disconnected negative battery terminal and car continued to run but this morning after starting and pulling negative terminal, it died. So 2 alternators dead now. Could there be an issue with ECU's or ? Let me know if I should make a new post. Thanks again.
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Thanks "Wtdash" for getting back to me, I thought I lost you. As mentioned above I took it to get inspected and it failed due to P0505 "Idle control system". I got home and Hooked up scanner and saw the error code, cleared it all again and it it seems to be gone...No codes showing...Is that only because I havent driven it again? Since the green plugs are gone and P0505 was the only code and no EGR issues, does it look like I may be OK, without doing the EGR modification, you mention ? It appears that the connected green plugs was the cause of the flashing CEL. Thanks again. I know it can get old with a bunch of Noob questions
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Well.... my enthusiasm is short lived. I went to do my safety and emissions and the light came on. After unplugging the green plugs the CEL light went off and went back on after driving it a bit. It failed with error code P0505 "Idle Control System". I got back home and used my scanner to clear it and the CEL went off...thats were I am at...
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Thanks. So even though I have it all set up with the 2.2 ECU it sounds Like it doesnt matter? Ive seen that link even as of yesterday but didnt think is applied...Based on that link and what you are saying is that I need to get a EGR intake manifold? So his system can even work? Is there a way to "Trick" or PIN the wires or computer to get rid of it? If the ECU's are not trans specific...then it would seem as though it wouldnt matter which ECU? I did hook up the 2.5 ECU after all error codes where gone and it really struggled to start and stay running. I also have here in Utah emissions testing so there has to be a solution or my project (so far) is a waste. There has got to be an inexpensive(?) way to do this
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Hi All. CEL issues...First post. New to Subarus, jumped in heavy over the last month...(2 EG33 motors. A 97 SVX and a Brighton donor for 96 outback) I have just finished a 96 Brighton 2.2/5spd swap (with Diff) into a 96 2.5/Auto swap. (My first Subaru swap) I had CEL codes, P1702 and P0403 but grounded PIN 50/81 and hooked up PIN 78 to Neutral Switch...(based on lots of research...) I have a scanner which is how I know the codes but now it is showing no codes but CEL is still on. I am using the 2.2/5spd and ECU from the Brighton donor. Not sure what to do. Thanks! Sorry about the pic, still figuring out this system