Norcalbratcap

Choke always worked, idle was always 500ish and rough as hell, motor bounced enough that it would touch the frame rails.

Ok, then why on an ea81 with a Weber carb, would it run fine, unplug the ECU and it run like dogshit, acted like timing was off or bad cap/rotor, then plug ECU back in and it magically run great again?

well months later i thought id update this, i had unplugged the ecu, and am running a Weber, and it started running worse and worse so a month or two later i remembered i unplugged the ecu , so i plugged it back in and she ran great again, apparently the disty needs it, undid the green test connectors no more light.

Excellent unplugged ecu, no more light!

It shows codes 45, 33, 31, 34, 52, 42, 43, but runs great, the carb was replaced by a weber I'm assuming thats why so many codes, so i can unplug the ecs?

Hey gang i just picked up an 84 gl wagon, and after a few minutes of warm up i have an ecs light, i read the codes from the ecu, are they in the fsm? If so i have the 1983 pdf, what page of 800+ would it be on? Thanks

I need to take it to the shop that did the rebuild, but it's 40 miles away i don't have a car trailer, might be able to get a friend that has one to do it, im flat broke at this point so can't afford a tow truck, was going to call the shop today but just too angry.

Misadjusted valves i just had that problem 0 compression on all cylinders, could also be blown headgasket.

So yeah I've got major rod knock on this "rebuilt" motor way worse than the little bit it had when i took the motor to them.

Yep that was the issue, it's running now, kinda sounds like a diesel in the middle, not sure if it'll smooth out or not, this is the first engine I've had rebuilt so im a little freaked out by noises lol, i had it rebuilt because the front and rear seals went out and dumped most of its oil out while my wife was driving it home, and i heard a little knock from the middle which sounded like rod knock to me, so it went to a machine shop, they polished the crank new bearings seals pistons rings the whole nine, this noise I'm hearing now sounds worse than when i took it to them, so not sure whats going on now, just seems like everything that can go wrong has so far every little thing being difficult.

Let me preface this by saying i just had the engine rebuilt at a machine shop, Flipped disty thinking it might be 180 out, put finger over no.1 spark plug hole to feel compression stroke, couldn't feel it, put my compression tester on it........ it reads 0, and as ive cranked it with the plugs in it sounds just like it does with the plugs out, so methinks the camshaft might be off 180 and is opening the valves on the compression stroke, what rlse could this be?

Yeah for sure, motors back in now, now i think i put the distributor in wrong, the shop that rebuilt the motor didn't put the disty back in so i had to, i followed my book, no.1 piston to tdc point the disty at no.1 and it the gear meshed in, got spark and fuel but no start, so gotta see whats up with that tomorrow.

Well i feel like an spardnubbin for wasting your time, when i started taking the motor out i told my wife to pull the ebrake...... she pulled the 4wd lever into neutral....... so the input shaft was just spinning doing nothing, about to put motor back in, thank you ihscout54 for all the suggestions and help, excuse me now I've got a hole to dig....... just kidding.

I haven't measured the disks yet, don't have calipers 30mi to stores lol, but can't seem to find what the thickness should be.

This kit is also the 8 7/8" set as thats what was in my brat Just checked napa's website to make sure this set is right, their site says 1115013 is the right one for my brat, that would be the 7 7/8" set and I've already had to return one of those i bought on amazon, so no help there.