Norcalbratcap
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Posts posted by Norcalbratcap
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Ok, then why on an ea81 with a Weber carb, would it run fine, unplug the ECU and it run like dogshit, acted like timing was off or bad cap/rotor, then plug ECU back in and it magically run great again?
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well months later i thought id update this, i had unplugged the ecu, and am running a Weber, and it started running worse and worse so a month or two later i remembered i unplugged the ecu , so i plugged it back in and she ran great again, apparently the disty needs it, undid the green test connectors no more light.
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Excellent unplugged ecu, no more light!
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It shows codes 45, 33, 31, 34, 52, 42, 43, but runs great, the carb was replaced by a weber I'm assuming thats why so many codes, so i can unplug the ecs?
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Hey gang i just picked up an 84 gl wagon, and after a few minutes of warm up i have an ecs light, i read the codes from the ecu, are they in the fsm? If so i have the 1983 pdf, what page of 800+ would it be on?
Thanks
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I need to take it to the shop that did the rebuild, but it's 40 miles away i don't have a car trailer, might be able to get a friend that has one to do it, im flat broke at this point so can't afford a tow truck, was going to call the shop today but just too angry.
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Misadjusted valves i just had that problem 0 compression on all cylinders, could also be blown headgasket.
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So yeah I've got major rod knock on this "rebuilt" motor way worse than the little bit it had when i took the motor to them.
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Yep that was the issue, it's running now, kinda sounds like a diesel in the middle, not sure if it'll smooth out or not, this is the first engine I've had rebuilt so im a little freaked out by noises lol, i had it rebuilt because the front and rear seals went out and dumped most of its oil out while my wife was driving it home, and i heard a little knock from the middle which sounded like rod knock to me, so it went to a machine shop, they polished the crank new bearings seals pistons rings the whole nine, this noise I'm hearing now sounds worse than when i took it to them, so not sure whats going on now, just seems like everything that can go wrong has so far every little thing being difficult.
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Let me preface this by saying i just had the engine rebuilt at a machine shop, Flipped disty thinking it might be 180 out, put finger over no.1 spark plug hole to feel compression stroke, couldn't feel it, put my compression tester on it........ it reads 0, and as ive cranked it with the plugs in it sounds just like it does with the plugs out, so methinks the camshaft might be off 180 and is opening the valves on the compression stroke, what rlse could this be?
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Yeah for sure, motors back in now, now i think i put the distributor in wrong, the shop that rebuilt the motor didn't put the disty back in so i had to, i followed my book, no.1 piston to tdc point the disty at no.1 and it the gear meshed in, got spark and fuel but no start, so gotta see whats up with that tomorrow.
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Well i feel like an spardnubbin for wasting your time, when i started taking the motor out i told my wife to pull the ebrake...... she pulled the 4wd lever into neutral....... so the input shaft was just spinning doing nothing, about to put motor back in, thank you ihscout54 for all the suggestions and help, excuse me now I've got a hole to dig....... just kidding.
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I haven't measured the disks yet, don't have calipers 30mi to stores lol, but can't seem to find what the thickness should be.
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This kit is also the 8 7/8" set as thats what was in my brat
Just checked napa's website to make sure this set is right, their site says 1115013 is the right one for my brat, that would be the 7 7/8" set and I've already had to return one of those i bought on amazon, so no help there.
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But looking at the box its a napa clutch set part no. 1115003
With a sticker on it that says replaces brute power mu476801
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The disk fits in the flywheel good
The splines match
I was doing an engine rebuild and the old clutch was worn almost to the rivets
This is the kit from rock auto for my car
BRUTE POWER MU476801
4WD; Diaphragm Style; 8-7/8 Inch Clutch Diameter; 21 Tooth Spline; 7/8 Inch Input Shaft Diameter [Wholesaler Closeout - Private Label Pkg. - 30 Day Warranty] (Only 5 Remaining)
The pressure plate/clutch cover is identical to my old one and the clutch disk seems to be also only difference being that the old one is completely worn and the new one is new.
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This
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/30080-flat-pressure-plate-springs/?fromsearch=1
Is the only thread i can find that has the same thing happening that i do but his proplem was a nissan clutch the hub was hitting the flywheel,
My clutch hub isn't hitting the flywheel.
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Alright if i did this right first two pics should show clutch cover with bolts loose no tension
And these two should show it bolted down and the fingers flat
Thoughts?
Only thing i can think is the clutch plate is too thick pushing out on the pressure plate as it bolts down, I'll see if i can come up with a micrometer to measure the thickness.
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It's easier to do the toyota 6lug conversion than it is to drill new rims and you get a whole new world of wheel options
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2" pipe then resonator then 90 degree turn upward through the bed behind the seats and a flapper to keep water out and look badass.
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And yes the engine is 99.98% installed
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Yeah i can feel the fork assembly moving and when i did hook the cable up i had to bottom out the adjuster before the cable even began to get tight and the pedal was still loose but it did push.
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It was just at the pins, yes it disappears and is under pressure, but the fingers are flat, not bowed outward, as if the throw out bearing was pushing on them but it was still on the hoist.
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It was between the clutch cover and the flywheel where they meet and bolt together.
84 ecu codes!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by Norcalbratcap
Choke always worked, idle was always 500ish and rough as hell, motor bounced enough that it would touch the frame rails.