Pineridge

Thanks Gloyale. The timing belt is good. I can turn the fanbelt on the Alt and the rotor spins. Although it could have slipped... HMM. Hate to think of having to deal with that. Went home during lunch and checked the ECU. 5 rapid blinks, space, 5 rapid blinks, etc... I will scour the forum for this code. Looked on "Troublecodes .net" and didn't see "5" as a code, maybe "55"? Thanks again for the help. John

Crap!! Thats the last time I let a friend check things for me! I had a friend do the spark check list. I went back through the spark trail: -coil to Dcap, good spark -Dcap through plaug wire, no spark! So, after reading through another post relating to an optical sensor, I may have a bad sensor? The fuel pump does kick on when I did as you suggested Skip. I will look for one of these sensors in our junk yard. I live in a rural area so it may take a few days. BTW; the CEL blinks steadily when I turn the key on. Just found a post on reading error codes. Yeehaw!!!! Thanks PixO! Thanks again for all your help. John

Sorry about the "seeing" issue. I "smelled" fresh fuel and squirted in some starter fluid. Nada. After doing some digging here I am seeing some steps to take. Fuse #5. Grounded screw on coil bracket. Spark accelerator on coil bracket. I'll check all of these and get back with an update. Thanks Skip for the quick response! John

Howdy fellas. I have a soob that has some difficulty. It started running rough about (missing occasionally) while operating. I didn't think too much of it till it completely died. I started the checklist (fuel/spark) and saw that it was getting fuel. I bought a new D-cap and rotor and pulled the #1 plug wire and found serious corrosion. (A friend had helped with a tune up about 2 years ago). The plug wire going into the D-cap had not been inserted all the way. I imagine it had been arching inside the cap for that long and finally quit. When I changed out the cap and rotor it still won't start. I checked the resistance on the coil and it is good. I get a decent spark from the coil to cap wire and from cap to plug wires. Question: Is there anything else that may have fried? This is an LED style Distributor. Thanks in advance. John

I just tried this fix and it passed (so far) with flying colors. I used one resistor @ .50 OHMS. If it fails I will update but until then thanks for the help!!!

Thanks for the replies. I finally got under the soob and found a stripped bolt on the tie rod! Almost came right off when I took out the cotter pin. I think that was all that was holding it on. the ball joints were also fried. My daughter had the car for the past 2 years and hit a curb, though she denies it. I had to replace a bent rim about a year ago and am now replacing a rotor with hair line cracks that was causing a pretty bad wobble when the brakes were applied. Note to self: When you give a car to a teenager do a complete check up before you trust your life to the car they used!

Hey guys. I have a '93 Loyale that wanders left on acceleration and back right on deceleration. I had new bearings installed recently on the left front and I know they did a bad job - I see grease coming out on the inside of the hub. Do I need a new knuckle assembly and then new bearings? Maybe new ball joints? I have done everything on soobs but the wheel bearings. (heard they are a bear to replace). But at this time I don't want to sink more labor into this and am willing to do it myself. Thanks.