xyzgeoman

So, thanks all for the help. Just thought I'd throw in a picture of what all the clunking was about. The strut mount was definitely broken and all that banging around had really taken its toll. (Notice the strut wasn't even centered in the mount any more.)

Jury says 4.11! Well, suggests 4.111 here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57742 This is confoundingly convoluted: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52723 And this says non-turbo 90-94 Leg's were 4.111: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2616 Also, found these for those who want a ton of info: http://surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans_spec.html http://surrealmirage.com/subaru/motor_trans_combo_spec.html And if all else fails, look in the owner's manual!

So, the diff I got from the salvage yard says it's a 4.111 ratio. I thought my car (90 Legacy L Manual AWD sedan) had a 3.9. Correct? But, from ye olde photo below you can tell that my diff's label is long since gone. What gives? I told the guy at the yard my year, make, and model. He said he had it and I went and picked it up. Today I started the project and got to thinking, "I'd better double check what that label says." So, am I right that this rear diff I just bought is NOT going to work?

Never mind that last post. Here's a link to an photo illustrated tutorial on just my topic. Yeehaw! http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=27963 Here goes...

So, I'm ready to tackle the removal and installation of the rear diff. Uncharted territory here. What tools and steps will this involve? Can I just unbolt it and drop it and plan on there being enough play in the halfshafts? or do I have to take them off (or just one side?). How about the driveshaft? I shouldn't have to remove that, right? And tools, anything that I should be aware of? Thanks ahead of time!

USED, from salvage yard. New to me! Called all the yards around (within hours drive). Prices from 250-175. Took the 175.

Sure 'nuf. Looked for override fuse when the heat was on Lil' Su (manual) and couldn't find it. I was just thinking of my previous Subie, 1990 Legacy Wagon AT. BTW: Rear diff's "hum" gets pretty loud around 60 mph. Picked up a new (used) rear diff at the yard yesterday. Paid $175.

Perfect! Thanks for the info and diagram.

So, a new strut is one thing and a "strut top" is another? Just making sure I know what all I'll need to buy. Also, here's a pic of the off-center strut (drivers side) peeking out from the top. And the "good" strut (pasgr side) with a seal or something sticking up out of the mount.

So, I need to fear the hum and dread the torque bind? THe current hum does change with wheel speed, but it's not a roar. Also, I know torque bind from my other Subie...no torque bind at this juncture. So, I guess I'll be shopping around for a rear diff to put in so's I'm not stuck somewhere 80 miles out Also, I'll try to attach a photo of the rear diff drain plug (magnetic) when I pulled it last night.

Found several helpful links on USMB: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61867 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10650 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50268 THose plus Haynes should get me through. Any idea on parts cost?

So what symptoms should I be looking for to know that things (rear diff or center) are about to blow up? THings seem to be running fairly smoothly now, except for a faint humming noise coming from the rear diff.

so how much time and $ and learning curve are we talking about here if I replace both rear struts myself?

So why do they even put the donut in there? Just asking for trouble.

bulged tire was on the opposite side from the strut banging on rebound. still could be an issue?