xyzgeoman

So, thanks all for the help. Just thought I'd throw in a picture of what all the clunking was about. The strut mount was definitely broken and all that banging around had really taken its toll. (Notice the strut wasn't even centered in the mount any more.)

Jury says 4.11! Well, suggests 4.111 here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57742 This is confoundingly convoluted: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52723 And this says non-turbo 90-94 Leg's were 4.111: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2616 Also, found these for those who want a ton of info: http://surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans_spec.html http://surrealmirage.com/subaru/motor_trans_combo_spec.html And if all else fails, look in the owner's manual!

So, the diff I got from the salvage yard says it's a 4.111 ratio. I thought my car (90 Legacy L Manual AWD sedan) had a 3.9. Correct? But, from ye olde photo below you can tell that my diff's label is long since gone. What gives? I told the guy at the yard my year, make, and model. He said he had it and I went and picked it up. Today I started the project and got to thinking, "I'd better double check what that label says." So, am I right that this rear diff I just bought is NOT going to work?

Never mind that last post. Here's a link to an photo illustrated tutorial on just my topic. Yeehaw! http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=27963 Here goes...

So, I'm ready to tackle the removal and installation of the rear diff. Uncharted territory here. What tools and steps will this involve? Can I just unbolt it and drop it and plan on there being enough play in the halfshafts? or do I have to take them off (or just one side?). How about the driveshaft? I shouldn't have to remove that, right? And tools, anything that I should be aware of? Thanks ahead of time!

USED, from salvage yard. New to me! Called all the yards around (within hours drive). Prices from 250-175. Took the 175.

Sure 'nuf. Looked for override fuse when the heat was on Lil' Su (manual) and couldn't find it. I was just thinking of my previous Subie, 1990 Legacy Wagon AT. BTW: Rear diff's "hum" gets pretty loud around 60 mph. Picked up a new (used) rear diff at the yard yesterday. Paid $175.

Perfect! Thanks for the info and diagram.

So, a new strut is one thing and a "strut top" is another? Just making sure I know what all I'll need to buy. Also, here's a pic of the off-center strut (drivers side) peeking out from the top. And the "good" strut (pasgr side) with a seal or something sticking up out of the mount.

So, I need to fear the hum and dread the torque bind? THe current hum does change with wheel speed, but it's not a roar. Also, I know torque bind from my other Subie...no torque bind at this juncture. So, I guess I'll be shopping around for a rear diff to put in so's I'm not stuck somewhere 80 miles out Also, I'll try to attach a photo of the rear diff drain plug (magnetic) when I pulled it last night.

Found several helpful links on USMB: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61867 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10650 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50268 THose plus Haynes should get me through. Any idea on parts cost?

So what symptoms should I be looking for to know that things (rear diff or center) are about to blow up? THings seem to be running fairly smoothly now, except for a faint humming noise coming from the rear diff.

so how much time and $ and learning curve are we talking about here if I replace both rear struts myself?

So why do they even put the donut in there? Just asking for trouble.

bulged tire was on the opposite side from the strut banging on rebound. still could be an issue?

So, since Lil' Su is a manual I guess I just cross my fingers and wait for a new development. Is that what I'm hearing?

DIY job?

90 Legacy Sedan. ~160K. Donut was way smaller than other tires. THe smoke was definitely gear oil from the rear diff. Stanky! I did change gear oil...So now I just wait until the rear diff grinds a slow death?

This just started this past week (or at least I noticed it, usually I'm on flat pavement). I took Lil' Su out to the mtns for a camp trip. Any compression was noiseless, but the rebound would elicit a loud bang from the driver's side rear strut mount area. I took off the wheel. Nothing obviously loose or broken there. I took out the back seat and looked at the top of the strut mount area. (not a king of car terminology) Anyhow, the driver's side looks different than the passg side. The top of the strut is not centered in the hole. It's off to one side. So, is this rebound problem a damping problem or a mount problem? New rear struts? btw: I recently had a tire bulge (see my prev post) on the other side. Not likely that they're related? Right?

Here's how it happened...The right rear tire got a bulge and the whole car would shimmy above 40mph. In my brilliant mind I thought that I'd just switch to the donut spare for the 60 miles home so I could at least go 50mph (donut's speed rating). After ~20 miles of ~50 mph I noticed a smoke trail behind me. I stopped and looked. The rear diff was SMOKIN'. It was then that I realized what I'd done. DANG! I changed back to the lumpy bumpy and limped home after a long wait to cool things down. At home I drained the rest of the oil and added new. No grinding noise now, but lower drain plug was covered with metal filings. What should I expect? How long until I'm needing a new diff? WHat do they run $?

Yeehaw!!! It was a piece of cake. Thanks all for the input.

Okay, last night I started her up and let her run. Here's the play-by-play: When I started her the first time she was a bit hesitant on turning over, like the battery didn't have enough juice. After five or so minutes of running fine (at all rpm's) the electrical started to dim and the sputtering started at any rpm above 1100 (any thing more than the slightest gas). This is about when I noticed the temp gauge beginning to creep up. Five more minutes and she died all together. No juice in the battery to start again. It was not night time when she first did this the other day and so I didn't notice the electrical. Also, I was so close to home that I didn't run her until she was all out of juice and died completely. Anyhow, with my limited auto knowledge I'm suspecting alternator. Thoughts?

Idle is fine...over about 1100rpm's sputters and dies if I don't get off the pedal. I don't know if the engine temp gauge does move, because I've not let her run for long enough to see since this started. I'll start the engine and let her run a while in idle and see. A buddy said maybe bad gas or some sort of contaminant. Possible? Thanks for the quick and intelligent (that means "way over my head") replies.

1990 manual legacy runs fine for about 2 minutes and then won't go above idle without sputtering. If I give little su any gas she threatens to stop on me and rpms go to a few hundred. She quits if i don't get off the gas. I had to drive a few blocks the other day in first at idle speed until I got home. SLOW! Just got this car 6 months ago from my father in law. She's been well taken care of as he bought her new. We have had no problems yet except for a three random times she has hesitated starting and needed a few extra turns of the starter. Other than that we've just kept her on scheduled maintenance so far. So is this going to be easy? Where do I start? Let me know if more info would help. Thanks all.

Even with the radiator out and a puller I still had to resort to the flame. She was on there! Glad you got it off.