Yellowbugeye03

Looks like that's gunna wait till I pull the motor this summer to do some gaskets and seals thay are leaking

Well I know the valve wasn't operating correctly like I said it was stuck open but maybe now IL check the pipe and see how blocked it is if I can get it off if I remember correctly I couldn't last time I tried taking it off

Update: new egr valve helped but still getting code 55 on cold start up and takes a couple minutes to go out, but doesn't buck nearly as bad anymore

Also after I cleaned it it still wouldn't close all the way. Im relatively new to these cars always had subarus just not this old. If this helps when I start the car in the cold it's hard to start takes a couple times to turn it over holding the throttle about half way. Then once it's started the check engine light comes on code 55 but it turns off after a couple minutes and it runs fine but if I try to take off before the light goes out it bucks

I took it off to clean it and its stuck open

I bought a new egr valve today and it requires you put the correct orifice washer in according the the stamp on the oe egr, the problem I have is I'm pretty sure the previous owner replaced the egr with one off an xt6. So I was just wondering if anyone knew the stamping number of the original

Sorry to bring up an old thread but is this still a thing?

Sorry to bring up an old thread but is this still a thing?

Ah i gotcha i figured out what you ment after i thought about it ill see if thag works

Do you have a picture of said shade tree tool im interested lol just cant picture it

I tried that i dont have a long enough small punch unfortunatly. It is a manual trans though so they arnt like newer modles where the axle stub is held in by a circlip. That stinks i eould much rather do this on a bench

Is there anyway to remove the front axle stubs from the transmission i have a broken punch in my axle stub from the previous owner and it would be easier to remove on a bench than under the car

Didn't think of it either till we hooked up my buddies truck to the battery cables and it was trying harder to start but still ended up doing the same thing and then he suggested it, sure enough we pulled the plugs and the starter engaged and shot some coolant in my face

My guess is when I had the intake mani off and was cleaning the matting surfaces some of the coolant from the coolant passage got into the head or something along those lines without me realizing it, runs good now though better than when I got it and no check engine light. Gunna do the ignition timing today after work and see where that gets me

Update: got the car to turn over and run it was hydrolocked

Update: got it to run and my wirinf issue figured out thanks everyonr that chimed in and helped out

I got my wiring situation all figured out i think and im atill having the initial problem and cant get the damn thing to start itll click once and then loose all power its got a new starter and new batter i have no idea what to do now

Ya know that would make sense there was an aftermarket deck in it and it didnt turn off automatically

Hopefully i can get everything i need from these pictures thank you all

Yes wagon if you could that would be awesome!

Its a 94 loyale

Yea thats porbably whaf happened but im just not sure where what is broken goes so i can put new wires in and im not so good at readinf wiring diagrams so all the help is deffinetly appreciated

Update: i took the starter off and took it to advance to have them test it and it poped their circuit breaker so im thinking thats the problem also the first battery they gave me was junk

And where the black wire goes on the green connector by the pink one

Where this wire goes on this connector