flyboy6

aha - that sounds like it. thanks.

took out the hub bolts (Driver front) and as they are quite corroded, ordered new from dealer - the ones I took out are a smooth shank right to bolt head, and the OEM ones supplied (checked by VIN) have a serrated shoulder flange the last half inch or so before head. Anyone seen this? Don't want to try driving a serrated shoulder into a steering knuckle back that is not fitted for it. (sorry, no pix)

Well, all ended up well. I had one hour available today so rather than using it to go buy a breaker bar or more spray, I hit it with the grinder and drove it out. New bolt in tomorrow from dealer. After the two hours messing with getting things apart, took all of 15 minutes to remove and overhaul the axle (new grease, boot, everything else good) and button it all back up. Thanks for the good advice! Also did stabilizer links and new bearing hub on the back, once the wheels are back on I'll go see if everything is quieted down now. I have a feeling I'll have some air in ABS HCU and may have some quirky work to do to finish the system bleed... Probably a thread in here on that.

Thanks for advice - will try breaker bar, then fancy (low VOC) chemicals, then smash the bejezzis out of it with grinder. First two sound like work, last one sounds like fun with sparks, all for the cost of a new bolt. Have been using 650lb air, which has eventually solved the other couple dozen bolts, including rusty axle nuts. But not this one.

Trying to swing out the driver side steering knuckle to get axle out - top (camber) bolt is out - lower bolt really tight, several days of PB, air wrench, etc. Thinking of grinding bolt head off and punching it out - wondering if it is actually threaded in the knuckle? Judging from bolt/nut combo I'm guessing not, but happy to have advice.