JWD06OBXT
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Posts posted by JWD06OBXT
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Anyone ever have the inner metal
Cylinder on their axle crack?
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Not a problem.
Test it:
You can do the same things with the engine OFF for safety. With the front off the ground, grab a hold of the Passenger front tire and spin it, and you'll notice the driver side wheel spinning the opposite direction. It's the same for the rear wheels.
You don't have a solid Axle. What you do have is an internal tranny diff with no locker.
Sport guys that want both wheels to turn while one wheel is high off the ground will install diff lockers to make sure both wheels spin when the vehicle is highly articulated. It's nice when off road, but really hard to work with on city streets.
It's really frustrating when you want to move forward and all the engine power is going to the wheel that's OFF the ground. = your stuck.
Thanks for the info!
Only thing is the passenger side is super hard to spin off the ground not sure why always has been almost like it was stuck or brakes seized up but even before I put the caliper on it was hard to turn. I did have a problem with the bearing getting stuck on the axle. I'm pretty sure its an after market axle as well because the driver side came off no problem.
Note car does not noticably pull one way or the other. Axle just wont spin with both wheels off the ground.
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So Just did struts all around and wheels bearing up front. Upon getting ready to be finished I left the car on four jack stands and turned it on to make sure I didn't have any rubbing or weird noises come from the brakes or bearings. Problem is driver side wheel spun once I had it in first gear but passenger side did not.
Is there a problem here? Should I be concerned?
Car is a 1993 Loyale 4WD with 191k miles.
Thanks
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The right strut is what ever strut kyb is listing as the right strut it.dosent mater if its fwd or 4wd on the front
Thank you. That's what I needed to hear!
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I'm in need of some guidance for replacing the worn out struts on my 93 Loyale 4WD Wagon. I've read through as many posts as I can trying to figure out what the correct struts i'll need to put on and am just a little confused with that specs ill need for up front and im trying to order from rock auto and the selection at this time is limited.
For the rears I know I need 4wd specific as to not have issues with the spring perch.
For the fronts that is where I'm confused. I'm having a hard time findings struts that are labeled as 4wd specific. Is that correct or will FWD work find for the front. Also what other models can I search products for that will work on my 93.
Thanks in advanced!
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Awesome! Thanks for the info. Just starting tune the car up after driving all winter and was unsure what those wires went to. Currently trying to pin point why my AC clutch will not engage and what cause my heater to blow inconsistent air temperature all winter. Thinking about a coolant system flush and blow out the heater core. Also need to check the AC refrigerant pressure, I think i may be low as the car has never had AC since I bought it and the sensor that in in the plate above the compressor clutch was unbolted when I bought the car.
Any other suggestions on tune up maintenance is appreciated. Car had 185k
Thank you.
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Can anyone tell me what these bundles of wires go to and why are they are not connected to anything? Some thing I have been curious about since I bought the car.
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1993 LoyaleBoulder Creek RD. OregonThumbnail Attached
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The one cj I let go really bad before swapping never showed play. It did have a torn boot, and dirt had gotten into it. It was already clicking intermittently, and I didn't have time to get at it right away. It eventually began to cause shimmy and shake the steering, making noise etc. Swapped it out, gone.
If the bearings are so bad they are causing your trouble, you should be able to wiggle the wheels and see them shift around in ways they shouldn't. You might have to remove the caliper to free things up though. It is often difficult to apply forces equivalent to those caused by normal operation by hand with the car in the air.
Awesome! Thanks for all the info. Ill tear into it the next couple days and see if I can find anything weird going on. I'm not experiencing any clicking as of right now. And I know one of the CV had been replaced before I purchased the car within the last two years.
Thanks
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Inconsistent makes me think more towards cvj. A really bad one. At this point, it's cvj, bearing, brake related, I would just pick a side, go through it all, then do the other.
My original thought was CV and the brakes. However there is very little play side to side with the CV's when the front end is up. And none of the boots are torn on both axles. Is it possible to feel it the wheel bearing is shot without taking the hub off?
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My original thought was CV and the brakes. However there is very little play side to side with the CV's when the front end is up. And none of the boots are torn on both axles. Is it possible to feel it the wheel bearing is shot without taking the hub off?
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Good to
When you say it does the thumping on deceleration. ... This happened to one of mine - might be worth checking...
The pinion shaft bearings failed in one of my wagons. Any engine braking would cause the pinion to move forward and hit the diffential carrier. Horrific sound and shuddering. It happened to the car my wife drove. Unknown to me, the gear lube had leaked out of the differential case, and ran dry for quite a while. Amazingly, these things can run low on gear oil and not get noisy enough to notice until too late.
I drive it home when it had gotten so bad she finally told me something was wrong.... it drove fine under load, or acceleration. But engine braking was bad. Had to keep my foot on the gas while slowing to a stop to prevent the banging.Good to know. I'm just super stumped by this cause its so inconsistent. I drove it last weekend about an hour up a local mountain pass and it did it off and on the whole way there. But coming back it didn't do it a single time. The next day I did the same drive and it did it all the way there off and on and all the way back. I drained and replaced both front and rear differential oil last week and still experiencing same symptoms. It's so inconsistent it sucks. Gonna inspect the tires and rotate tonight along with check out the E-Brake as I believe it is sticking on one side.
Thanks for the info!
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Ok, number one, leave the car off, wheels in the air (tires still on), no emergency brake, car in neutral. Grab a tire, give it a spin. If you can't turn the wheel, you have a problem. If you can, good.
Next;
Sit in front of one wheel, grab it with both hands, one at 3 o clock, one at 9 o clock.
Now push with one hand as you pull with the other, gently. Do that Back and forth (alternating push/pull hands). Do this in a fashion that you're not using enough force to actually make the wheel turn, but do it firmly. There should be no rocking, no play.
Do the same thing again but with your hands at 6 and 12o clock. (Be mindful for the brief time your fingers are underneath that tire though)
Once again there should be no play.
Thanks Ill give it a shot!
Do you mean sit in front and grab the wheel by the side walls (Perpendicular to the CV Axle) and push and pull side to side rather than spinning the tire from the outside of the fender. When I got under the car the other day and had it in the air I yanked on the cv's side to side pretty hard and both had a small even amount of play between them.
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If it feels like it's pulling in one direction my car did the exact thing and slowly got worse. I learned when it was too late the side it was pulling too was the stronger cv axle. Learned it when the left side finally blew out on me and had to drive home in 4wd. Car shakes maybe not too violent but violent enough on deceleration starts out almost as if it's warped rotors? Slowly gets worse, maybe will even turn the wheel at around 1-8mph coasting? CV axle opposite the side it's pulling. At least from what I experienced.
I'm not feeling any pulling at all. It's getting worse as I am not feeling a constant vibration when driving. It appears that I only get the thud, clunk and shimmying of the front end when carrying passengers. It almost feels weight dependent. And the thumping and bouncing of the front end happens in nearly the same cycle and rhythm every time it does it upon deceleration. Mind that it does not happen every time.
To me when it does happen the best way I can describe the thumping and shaking and oscillating is the spinning of a top that is not balanced. It feels as if when decelerating the rotation is thrown off balance for a split second which gives me shaking and thumping feeling as if i ran something over. Then when accelerating again it goes back into a normal spin.
Tire related???
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check the ebrake on your front wheel thats hard to turn. I've had on side stick.
You should also look at ball joints and tie rod ends for play. Even sway bar links
Okay thanks for the suggestions!
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Both wheels off the ground, parking brake released, turn 1 wheel, the other will turn the opposite direction.
The CV axle play - how do you mean? What part are you pulling / pushing / what direction relative to some other parts?
The axle play appears to be the same for both. With movement towards the center of the car. Upon lifting the front up and starting the car, only one wheel wants to move when in 1st gear. Brakes appear to be locked up on the passenger side, as the wheel barely moves or does not move at all when given gas. I havent noticed any noise prior when driving so I'm not sure why the wheel is not turning. When on the throttle.
When off the ground and I turn the wheel that will move the other side does not move at all due to i think the brake is stuck.
Thanks for the response.
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Okay so after taking off the tire and inspecting to make sure everything is tight I found the driveside hub was able to rotate with the twist of my hand. the whole front end is in the air and I'm able to spin the hub and axle. Is this normal. Also there is some play moving the CV axle horizontally not to much but it moves a bit.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks
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Look for loose axle nut, loose brake caliper, bad wheel bearing , bad cvj.
Thanks for the reply, i'll look over all those things tonight when I get a chance.
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Did some winter driving yesterday over some mountain passes and the ol' Loyale did great with mild sections that rendered the use of 4 wheel drive. Upon driving home I noticed a slight vibration from the front end. Having just put new studded snow tires on I didn't think anything of it. After a while I began to feel the front end shimmy and sort of pop and clunk when ever I left off the gas. And occasionally when accelerating. I could feel it in my feet and the front end felt like it was shaking intermitantly side to side along with the clunk of the tire as if i ran over something. Ill inspect the CV tonight and see if there is play when off the ground but just curious if anyone has any other ideas of where to look. I did also notice when putting the snow tires on that the driver side, which is the side of question had alot of play when tightening down the lugs while the car was in the air, as the passanger side which has had the CV replaced in the past two years had no movement when putting the new tire on. The car drives fine other than that and even this morning I could not get it to replicate the jarring and popping upon letting off the gas, only vibrations at hwy speeds and acceleration.
any info is appreciated
Thanks
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I'm having an idle issue that arises every so often seems to happen at random and can't seem to pin point what may be causing it. After intermitant driving and coming to a stop the idle pulsed between 1300rpms-1000rpms. Any ideas of where to start would be appreciated. This is my first EA and not super familiar with its in's and out's yet. So far it has been a great daily driver after fixing a leaky valve cover gasket. Car has about 179K on the odometer. Photo below.
Cracked inner axle
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Yup inner cage cracked in three spots. Pretty sure its cause the axle was toast cause when I took it off the car the joint actually locked up and had to force it back into the cup. Got a new to me OEM axle from the the Junk yard and it fit like a glove. Now just waiting for new tie rod ends.