Paperscale
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Posts posted by Paperscale
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Your best bang for the buck would be to create a new, beefier headlamp harness. This will reduce the electrical bottleneck in the system.
Also to note, brighter halogen lamps generally do not last as long. Replace in pairs.
By not lasting as long, do you mean like they will barely last a year, or just a bit less than normal ones?
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Well I found the rattle! One of my exhaust pipes lost a nut, and the other side was coming loose, so it was rattling when moving and shaking the engine. Silly fix.
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The low beams on my brat are trash. I've been looking on rock auto for some good options but there's a bunch, and several that claim are nice and bright, but I'm looking to see what you guys would suggest. I don't need super ultra off road Low beams, and I don't want to have to modify anything, just plug and play. I just want something brighter than what I have now.
These are the two different ones i was considering, unless you all have some better suggestions.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6319587&cc=1267747&jsn=489&jsn=489&jsn=489&jsn=489
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=319216&cc=1267747&jsn=485&jsn=485&jsn=485
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Well for now at least I'm just going to chalk it up to the cold weather for how smokey it seems. We had a fairly warm morning here and there was no smoke/steam at all. The source of the rattling is still a mystery. Haven't found anything exceptionally loose or that would be clanging.
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Alright, well the cat is newer, but wouldnt it rattle still even if I'm not moving? It's such an odd time that it rattles. Only when driving, and only while accelerating, over 2k rpm. But if I'm cruising, say, at 50 mph, and over 2k, no rattles. Only when I try to go faster.
The smoke smells.. sort of sweet I suppose, but like I said only for the first minute after starting, not while I'm driving.
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I know, it's old, it's rusty, and in general falling apart. But, it seems to run well.
Lately, I've been more nervous about the amount of smoke/steam coming from the exhaust. It's multiplied by the fact I have a huge hole in the muffler so it gets two places to come out of. I don't know if it's been the cold and I'm paranoid, or if I have coolant coming from somewhere, but it's only really smokey/ steamy in the first maybe minute of it being on, then it seems to settle down to a normal amount. Is it typical to be putting out more steam on start up on a cold day? Or should it be fairly even amount from start to normal operating temp?
My other oddity, is something I just can't figure out. The car makes a rattling, as if a heat shield is rattling against something, but only on acceleration, above about 2k rpm. When I'm keeping steady speed, there is no rattling. It also doesn't rattle when I am stopped, but rev the engine, it's only when I'm moving forward. I looked under the car and I can't see anything that could make such a racket dangling down and sitting against something. The engine sounds perfectly fine otherwise, as I had thought maybe something was off.
And ideas? What might be loose, but not affect the driving? It drives fine, and there's no loss of power or engine struggles. It's not tappets or lifters because it's much louder than those.
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My 85 Brat has some shakes. not always though. I assume brakes to be somewhat suspect, but she doesn't pull to any side when slamming the brakes, but there is a bit of steering wheel shake. Also, on the interstate, the steering wheel shakes a bit going about 55-70, but once I reach almost exactly 75, there's no shaking and its nice and smooth.
What's the problem then? One, or all of these things? I've had new tires and a balance and alignment done *maybe* 800 miles ago. I wouldn't think brakes would affect normal driving at those certain speeds, but I won't be surprised if that's the cause of the steering wheel shaking when stopping hard.
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Ive got a set for sale in Tacoma wa with headrests. $150
2nd gen? Would you ship them? I'm in Utah.
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I'm in CT and could ship a set. Would be best via Greyhound. You just go to the nearest terminal they stop at and pick them up.
I've got two decent sets and one extremely nice , well protected , low mileage set that I want better money for and would only sell it to someone doing a true restoration.
The decent sets I have are a Gen 2 as I recall. One with a green mounting frame and one with maroon. The sweet set is gen one and blue mounting frame.
I have some headrests too , have the slider bars they go on.
One set of seats has a crappy pistol grip shaft. You could easily sleeve the shaft. That set needing work on only that grip shaft I would like $125 for the seats with all grips ( one needing attention ) and mounting frame.
Better set with maroon mounting frame AND headrests with slider bars $250
Near pristine Gen one set $ talk to me. It's a complete set.
Sorry , no seatbelts. There may still be a used set needing attention in my stash but I can't easily recall it so it's buried. They are rusty but functional.
Good luck. They do show up.
All prices mentioned plus shipping. I'd guess around $70 via Greyhound if you're on the left coast.
I'll have to consider the cheap set. My Brat is in no way pretty, but I'm getting sick of being asked why I don't have any rears at car meets
It'd be nice to have anything to put in there. I assume ones without headrests have nothing else that sticks up high, so I could still fit a topper on it, right? -
I've been on the hunt since I bought my Brat, and I've seen only one set for sale from a guy in the US that wouldn't ship them, and then a good number of Aussie people, but I doubt shipping from there would be worth it. I'm part of a bunch of FB groups, but theres never any in the US, or near me. How do you guys find them?! And what would I expect to pay for a set of second gen seats?
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Yo, those seats are SUPER cool. Id buy it for the seats alone haha. Man I feel better about the rust on mine now. Thats one rusty turd for sure.
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So I took the topper off my Brat to move some larger things, and when I did, I noticed a lot of the rubber seal was no longer attached to the topper. Most of it is falling off.
Anyone have some good suggestions, or things they've done to fix their seals?
I've been told to try some screws to hold the rubber back up and silicone around it, but the top itself seems so thin, I don't want to damage it, or compromise the already old rubber by drilling into it.
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So just step on the gas with nothing on at all? The key doesn't need to be in to.. activate it?
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So it doesn't really seem to be a problem, more than an an annoyance. When I start it the first time, it's only idling at like 400-500. It will stay like that, and if I press the gas hard enough it will bounce up to a normal idle and stay there like nothing was wrong, buyost of the time it will just die. Then, I start it again and it idles at 2000 till I press the gas and it will go back down to a normal 1000-ish and I have no problems from then on.
Is there something that is causing this? It's not cold out any more. Is this some weird carburator thing I'm not familiar with?
Again, it doesn't give me any problems when driving or any time after this, it just seems.. odd.
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Do those tiny light bars on top do much good? I'd like to get some form of LED lights on my Brat, but I don't know if I want to go with a larger bar, or a set of smaller ones.
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So, while I was driving my brat, I noticed the gas gauge seemed oddly low for having just filled up, and barely drive 35 miles. I filled up again and it took almost 2 gallons. There is also sometimes, but not always, a slight smell of gas, and I've looked underneath, but I don't see any drips or leaks of fuel.
I know I need new tires, but I wouldn't think that would mean I get under 20 mpg. Maybe I'm paranoid? What is your average MPG for an EA81/ BRAT?
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Anyone know if the rear mudflaps from a 86 Subaru gl wagon would fit on the brat? Found some at the junk yard, was wondering if the wheel arches are close enough to fit them.
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Got my 85 in January for $980 with a topper and a rocket box. Dash cracked, rockers gone, more rust underneath, blown head gasket.
But I changed the gasket and it seems to be running pretty good for now!
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No, no bubbles when it's cold. I just tried what you said, and took it for a drive and it seems to be staying cooler. I'll have to test it out on a longer drive next time now.
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Staring from cold. Open cap. Fill. Start engine. Level may change. Rev engine a few times. It may draw in some coolant or push out some air. Top off. When the thermostat opens, it may cause some to overflow.
It is not normal for it to push out lots of air or coolant during all of this.
Opening when hot may cause a gyser effect, if some coolant boils in the block. More chance of this if you are at high altitudes.
Staring from cold. Open cap. Fill. Start engine. Level may change. Rev engine a few times. It may draw in some coolant or push out some air. Top off. When the thermostat opens, it may cause some to overflow.
It is not normal for it to push out lots of air or coolant during all of this.
Opening when hot may cause a gyser effect, if some coolant boils in the block. More chance of this if you are at high altitudes.
So I start it from cold and it all seems fine, but after it warms up, it will suck coolant in, but then it starts bubbling crazy. Mainly once I shut it off, it spews the coolant out. I AM at a fairly high altitude, but would it affect it like this even when I do the open from cold, let it warm up, and it spits it out?
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So, I just finished the head gasket replacement, and everything *seems* to be working properly, but I had some questions.
While test driving it, I noticed the engine temp gauge rise to the upper part of the third section. It didn't go into the red, but it seemed sorta high compared to what any of my other cars run at.
So I looked up bleeding air from the coolant, and to do so, everything says to take the radiator cap off and let it run to get the air bubbles out. Well I don't know if it's normal but it started PUKING coolant out of the radiator with the cap off. I'm not sure if I'm bleeding air, or it's just regurgitating all the coolant out.
Am I doing something wrong? Is there something else I should be doing? Or is that running temp normal for these?
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Lately, I've been trying to address some of the rust on the underbits and other places of my BRAT. I've been scraping/ sanding/ wire wheel to remove the loosest stuff, and then giving it a nice coating of POR15. That stuff is magic I swear. My poor vehicle will never be a show car, and it'll be held together with paint, duct tape, and luck, but I love it.
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Yeah when I gave the dealer the year and model, they couldn't even look up vehicles that old he said.
I'll maybe try out those part numbers and see if they can find something.
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I know, old thread, but is there a "best" place to source the head gasket set? I've found several places selling, and some look different, and are all different prices. How do I know that it's for sure the right one?
I also see that it's suggested to get the manifold gaskets from the dealer, but no dealer around me can even acquire parts for a BRAT. Are the felpro really that bad, or is there another place to get them?
Sorry about the dumb questions. This'll be my first time doing this, and I'm going to have a friend help me do it. I'm just trying to make a list of parts and stuff I'll need to get before he comes over to help.
What exactly is stopping an ea81 from mating to an ea63 transmission?
in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Posted
I was reading the ancient engine swap info thread from Uncle Ed, and he states that you need to change the transmission along with the engine for an ea81 swap into an ea63 car. What is preventing these from mating up? Is it something an adapter plate or some other modification could make work? I see ea71 is a darn near direct swap, but those are even harder for me to come by than an ea81 is.