Outbackpacker

Hi Mike 104, I will definitely keep you in mind. I just had a flat and found that I'll probably need a whole new set of tires. Don't have the $ to cover critical expenses right now, so will have to put this issue on hold till I get caught up. Thanks

Hi Guys and Subi Gals, I have a dilemma. Just got a flat and plugged it, but need a replacement now. The tire is shot and for some reason looks like a skid on one foot section of the rear side opposite of where I've had cv joint play, but replaced the axle assembly. I was going to get a new set of 4, but strapped for $ with a bunch of high priority issues all at once. Am hoping that I might be able to get a matching size spare to replace the bad one, but concerned about it burning out the differential on my 5 spd. standard 98 Leg. O.B. Checking Craig's List, adds for used, etc. Am looking for another job, and to sell something, but neither is guaranteed right now. If $ weren't an issue right now, I would err on safety. Any suggestion? Thanks! Outbackpacker

I appreciate that idea. I already scribed it when I used the method to drop the unit off the strut. Will consider a shop for the threaded fitting of the ball joint. Will check youtube for details on replacing the whole knuckle. Thanks!

Update, Got a chance to jack the car up. That made a difference. I couldn't tell with it on the ground. While holding tire at 3:00 and 9:00, also at 7:00 and 5:00, and shaking there was play on the passenger side. At the 12:00 and 6:00 No play. Tie rod felt solid when I replaced the axle previously; however the ball joint (think there's just a lower), does have up and down movement. Its a shame that I couldn't get it out. Will have to try some of the snake oil that they put in vaccines. Maybe it'll work for THAT. But that's for another thread. Lastly, I couldn't tell any noise while turning the tire/wheel. Probably because its got the 5 speed differential and doesn't spin. My guess is bad wheel bearing caused by leaving the worn cv joint on too long AND because cow pastures are often better shape and well maintained than WV roads..........That was a point I'm glad John Denver left out of our state anthem. \ Q: Should I consider anything else before spending a whole day on a big job with no press......replacing the wheel bearing. Do YOU think its the bearing, or possibly something else? Thanks Outbackpacker

Hi Fairtax4me, It makes noise beyond 30, but it smooths out a lot. Sometimes it has more shake than other times. About 30 and highway speeds, it vibrates, but not as much as slower speeds. I didn't think to check the bearing when it was up on stands. Thanks for reminding me and tomorrow AM first thing I'll get it in the air and check that. The tires are well over 1 year old and I've hit plenty of holes that made me say " WV state road $ hard at work"! Will pull that and check closely too. Thanks for the recommendations. Will do and get back this weekend ASAP.

Hi everybody, This is Outbackpacker with a question. What is likely causing the front end to pulse? Its sometimes bad enough to make me sing falsetto up to 30mph. The shifter doesn't shake back and forth, only vibrates. Steering pulls straight line and fairly smooth steering wheel. I can feel it in the corner where I replaced the axle. For most of a year I've had a front CV joint that was going bad. Since I've not been taking long trips lately, I followed instructions of a fellow Subi fan at a local NAPA store. Instead of replacing my OEM with 226K miles good axle with their made in China new remanufactured, I cleaned out the outter joint and repacked with grease and replaced the boot. Worked good until recently when the noise increased. Pulled the axle and since concerned the play would cause tire and other part wear, I swapped it for a chinese knock off from napa. The sound and noise improved, but still have the same passenger front side pulse every revolution of the wheel. The ball joint is bad (play) even though boot good. It will NOT come off for anything and I mean anything I've tried with the help of youtube mechanics. But that question I'll save for another thread. I don't think that's where the noise and pulsing comes from considering that its on smooth roads. OH BTW, I just remembered that now it has the rotor scuff sound only when pulling HARD left turns. However, the normal braking pulse of a high spot on a rotor does Not happen. Otherwise that would be my first guess. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Outbackpacker

Fairtax4me, Maybe that's why the boot is otherwise perfect and rather new. It might just be junk silicon rubber. I might just be paranoid after having a Subaru shop worker steal a Green Machine (like K&N) air filter from me when I took it in for some other work in North Central WV. I made the mistake of telling him that I just bought it and seems to work good. Next time I checked it at home, it was replaced with a cheap paper disposable filter.....the pink belt thief. That's pretty sad when an auto mechanic steals an air filter. Either way, I've driven with CV joints that were far worse. If it gets worse, I'll definitely change it out for a used one and Not a chinese soft one of questionable length. If OEM, it will probably last longer if in OK shape and won't need to get the car realigned.

Yeah Adventure, I took it somewhere else and they just went through typical, make sure all lights, etc. work. Got my sticker before getting pulled over with the cop magnet "reject" sticker. I'll take the new chinese rebuild back and search the yards for a used OEM. I think that sounds wise. One Lucky Texan, I hear what you are saying. I was sitting facing away from the window until 45 minutes or so, then was wondering what was taking soooooo long. Its a shame the crooked states steal so much $ in soooo many ways from property "owners". I realize that took away our stuff and charge us yearly for use of THEIR cars and houses. They work their little butts off making sure they cut down on "cheaters" with their "plants". Youre right that they don't want to lose that license to sell inspection stickers. Can't blame them. Normally I go to a place that is familiar with me and have no issues. But this place was convenient at the time and near inspection time. When I got to my garage, I just got suspicious. Not that they would do this. Its just that something recently cut through the double thickness of a well bonded split boot that wasn't even dirty. It was cut in a way that I've never seen.....not with the crease. Then an estimate for over $400. Maybe that's the going rate now.

I appreciate you, Adventure Subaru and all others who have taken your time to answer my questions. I believe that you have all provided good wisdom and will take the advise and do do this as soon as I get a chance. I'll save and get the whole kit. I considered selling the car soon, but decided to keep it as a work car for another year or two till I can buy without a loan. I guess it will be worth to fix and use rather than get a thousand for the old wagon. Best to you all! Outbackpacker

Opps. Double tap

Thanks, I'll get membership to get those pics then. Since I have nobody to lend a hand, would you recommend dropping the manual transmission or pulling the engine? Also wondering if you recommend supporting anyone on the board who sells Exedy brand parts? If not, I'll find the best price or local if available.

Adventure Subaru, Thanks man! That's a great write up. Very clear. Is it illustrated? I'm asking because the link said "pictorial" and sometimes those pics don't show up because they are restricted to members, or my firewall blocks them for some reason. If I decide to get a new clutch, I'll go with your recommendation.

Hi Guys, I went for an inspection and after an hour or so in the garage with the guy using a fine toothed comb and white gloves under the hood and undercarriage, he finally rejected state inspection because he said the CV joint needed replaced. I asked for the est. and you don't even want to know. They must have thought I had more money than cents/ sense. I've never gone to a place that had a hundred point inspection, test strips for all fluids, etc. ad nauseum. In one way its good to know, even though they just do inspections to get a lot more bu$ine$$. That's OK, I'm just questioning motive and IF the unit really needs replaced. I normally drive it gently because I don't want to tear it up before I can get another car in a year or two. Anyhow, I did replace the boot and thoroughly clean the old grease w/fresh high temp wheel bearing grease when I used a wrap around boot upon discovery of a tear. It held up fine. I even checked it recently before the inspection. I can't prove anything, but it looked like someone took a sharp tool and sliced it open. The boot seam was tight and no wear. Its less than a year old. Play? The Joint is solid except for maybe as much as 1/4" in- out. Up-down/side to side is solid. No clunking yet. Issues? It clicks ever so lightly when the wheel is turned hard right, sometimes when pulling up into my driveway. Other than that, No issues. I just pulled the boot. Grease was clean and then repacked it with fresh and tied it back on. BTW, its OEM with 224,000miles and has never been replaced. After reading a bunch of posts and Youtube videos on the subject, I'm wondering what the best thing is to do........ 1. Replace the Boot and keep an eye on the passenger's side half axle/CV. Its good quality OEM and alignment is fine. OR 2. Replace the axle with a $70 aftermarket axle of questionable chinese quality? Bought one already and debating taking it back. The in-out play looks/feels just about the same as the one on the car now. Maybe 1/8" difference. Barely noticeable. I used to get those aftermarkets and they were hit/miss and sometimes bad when I got them installed. So, you see why I'm reluctant to just replace it. I decided not to take the high road and spend big buck$ on the dealer OEM rebuild. Maybe if the car wasn't an antique as of next year.

gbrand, Thanks. Anytime I've changed out a clutch, its been a pretty big job and learning experience. Ie. Make a tripod, pull it using block/tackle, chain, etc. The way you describe, if I don't have to change the whole thing, just the bearing, the fork and spring clip; it sounds MUCH easier! Working by myself, it sounds like I don't have to stress out dreading a full day or more handling it all by myself. Anything that you'd recommend that I should do or check while I'm replacing the T.O. bearing, fork, and bearing return spring (or whatever its proper name is)? I don't have a spare car to pick up parts, and the parts stores refuse to deliver to anyone but commercial garages. Once I've got it apart, I would like to make sure that I've got everything that I might need. I can always return an extra part although it might cost 20% restocking fee.

Adventure Subaru, The noise does occur at any RPMs when in neutral. It goes away as I depress the clutch about the point when the bearing starts to touch the fingers (springs on clutch). The sound continues when IN gear too, AFTER the clutch pedal is released.....for a little while. It clears up in short order even before the engine has had time to warm at all. gbrand, Its been a while since I change out a clutch, so I'll be happy if I can simply pull out the radiator, disconnect the engine and access it by pulling it forward. Maybe I won't have to replace anything behind the throwout bearing and maybe fork. One thing for sure, is I'm NOT a mechanic, BUT IF I want it done right, I better do it myself......speaking from experience. There's excellent mechanics in my area, here in WV, but they either charge highest market value (BIG $), or cut corners because they don't seem to care....... I had a LOT of work done once and the guy didn't want to replace the tensioner on a head gasket, and timing belt job, etc.... As soon as out of warantee, it threw the belt and ruined the engine, valves, etc. This was at the SUBE Shop where the guy knew better and admitted it. Didn't do me any good. I appreciate the good feedback.

I think I got OEM, but its been a long time. BTW, correction, I had the local shop do it for me that time because they were doing my head gasket rebuild job. I remember insisting on OEM when they wanted to sell me something else. Its hard to say at this point. Later one of the grease monkey's replaced my plug wires and plugs with used ones from a garbage can, HE admitted when the shop owner got back from vacation. Heck, I might have Yugoslavic clutch parts in there. I remember the The clutch itself grabs fine at all 5 gears, its just the sudden onset of the shrill noise that has me concerned. I've replaced some old GLs and a previous OB after 2 mechanics messed it up by using cheap parts, or RE-using the throwout bearing spring clip. The bums that I already paid, messed me over by reusing a couple buck part and the bearing wasn't disengaging strongly and burned up $300 worth of parts and labor.

Hi Guys, Here's my first post after many years away. I recently started having a squeal or high pitched whistle(?) coming from the engine compartment. It started happening all of a sudden and only does it when the engine is cold from sitting in the garage overnight. The pitch and sound changes when I slightly depress the clutch, then goes quiet as I push down the rest of the way until I let up completely. The squeal continues after pulling out and quiets after 2 blocks of driving, approx. a couple of stop signs, otherwise; if I let it idle it keeps squealing for a long time. I vaguely remember replacing the clutch when the first engine head gasket blew. Probably between 60-80K ago. Mostly hwy mileage, but 224,000 miles and the 2.5 was replaced with a 2.2. The clutch pedal goes about 2/3 down before it shifts from stop to 1st. Its not a young gal anymore, but Seems OK to me. I want your feedback. My guess is that the clutch throwout bearing is starting to go bad. What do you think guys/gals? Outbackpacker