drewpear

in the spirit of having fun, i say that i'm shocked and surprised you recommend tightening the bolt "good and tight" specs, specs, where is the data? lol i was planning on getting a torque wrench...

i do have a manual. i should probably refer there more often...lol on this repair i decided not to touch the cams, though i did get seals when i bought a timing kit. the cam seals are not leaking...yet and i don't want to get over my head though perhaps i fret a little too much. once you get in there, it's often not as scary as it seems. i want to keep the timing adjustment simple this time. seems i would have more to contend with also replacing cam seals. is this correct?... the car has been sitting for a year. like to see if/how it runs. i could do it later i'm thinking.

thank you for the replies. regarding using jb, where exactly would you use it? i don't work on cars, but i have experience with putting things together. it seems that the jb can't rise above the walls of the keyway and what of the area of missing metal? would a little jb at the bottom of the keyway work, since it is curved and it's my understanding that the key is solely to assist in alignment when tightening the bolt.

mostly outside

i'm working on this vehicle replacing some timing parts. the vehicle hasn't run for a year or so. of course i will be anxious to start it up after the timing work, but i'm feeling there may be some things i should do before i try to start it. oil and filter change comes to mind. what else should i be concerned with? thank you.

could you elaborate?

210,000.

almost a year.

i pulled the crank sprocket yesterday using the tap and pull method. here is what the key way looks like. it's not looking too well i think. a little research suggested that there may be an option to use loctite, jb, or other metal bonding/fill product. to repair the key way. any suggestions? i'm curious. what probably broke first, the key or keyway?

thank you very much for the video link. the belt is no longer on.

so where is a good tutorial on installing this kit to this car?

doh! i thought they both had water pumps. i think they call that a brain fart... i'm not sure about the engine type. i'll have to investigate. one of the other idler pulleys is well rusted and the other is starting too. you are correct that it's the idler sprocket that is failing. thanks for the heads up. do you have an idea of what might have caused this issue. what failed.

yikes! no worries eh? just gotta make some marks and everythings going to be okay... sound advice. so i took a look online the first two links are for gates brand. i don't understand the difference in the kits or the pricing being from the same company. the third link has the best price. can you help me to understand what i should get. i do like the cheapest one...lol i know it's not always the best choice, but in this day and age, with online, things are different. i imagine gates is just a good brand? thank you http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/397-01105017.html http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/407-05287181.html http://www.carparts.com/details/Subaru/Legacy/Replacement/Timing_Belt_Kit/1999/KIT1-041415-12-B.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KEQiAgJTGBRDLr5_az_Ouk44BEiQAIxaA4psKsQh1CfMu_PpA51T3C98nIOkJH9Kw9_RdLgJ1mh8aAuOj8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

i love it when a plan comes together. a can of pb blaster showed up around here. i had never heard of it before. cool. thank you for your offer. i have purchased one already online. i'm curious about re-assembly. i'm told that with what has been removed at this point there aren't any timing issues. can this be correct if only the crank pulley has been removed?

thank you. i don't understand grind cut at key way.

yuppers

i hear that...i think they have support groups for people like us... the sprocket is stuck. the pulley is off. i'm told the key broke. it was seen by a profesional. he wanted a million dollars. i wonder what broke first? would it of been the key? the pulley? i noticed that an idler pulley, near and just below the crank pulley if i remember correctly, is exhibiting a degree of disintegrity in it's bearings and should be replaced i believe. could that of started this mess?

yes, that's correct. i don't understand the assembly yet in regards to the key and how it functions. does it key the pulley and the sprocket on the crank? the pulley is off and the sprocket won't budge and i was told the key broke and i thought a flange of metal on the key is preventing it from sliding in the keyway. is there much chance of damaging the keyway with the broken key as i pull on the sprocket? and the screwdriver would be used to assist the puller? how far away is the perimeter of the rear ring on the sprocket from a sprocket valley (if that's what it's called) thanks a lot for your input

sweet. thank you... is that why they are there?

that would be a broken key

howdy folks, just gotta love forums. i recently bought my housemate's 1999 outback the crankshaft pulley went bad while he owned it. there was some work done to get at the problem. at this point the issue appears to be that the crankshaft sprocket cannot slide off the crank because the key broke and is jamming things up. my housemate tried a puller with 3 prongs and a central screw but couldn't get it to fit properly, maybe because it was too large. is this the approach to take? damaging the sprocket is something i thought of. i have the new pulley and the belt is good. it seems that i am close to having a really fine car or miles away because i really can't afford to take it anywhere. thanks for any suggestions.