OswaldtheBold
-
Posts
36 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by OswaldtheBold
-
-
The Subaru dealer's opinion: "confirmed customer concern, transfer clutch is not releasing properly, causing a tight binding and rumble noise on sharp turn. Removed transfer clutch and plates looked discolored like they were getting hot."
They replaced the transfer clutch plates and piston, retainer spring, seals, snap rings, shims, oil seal, and changed the CVT fluid.
"Test drove, noise and feel felt better but still a little present, transfer clutch needs to finish breaking in."
It was all covered under the CVT warranty. They said drive it for a few weeks, and if the problem comes back, they will replace the entire CVT with a new one, under warranty.
-
2
-
1
-
-
48 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
Yes, ask. They may need to diagnosis it first to determine warranty. Worth a shot and getting some eyes on it for a second opinion would be nice, maybe it’s something else. I’m really hesitant to say torque bind over the internet on such a newer low miles VTD... I have so many stories where someone misses information or uses poor word choices or doesn’t see something that seems really obvious nor they’re running on confirmation bias and just looking for what Uncle Johnny told them...and they’re wrong all the time. I typically just ignore what people tell me and start from the beginning. Anyway - over the internet, new car, rare issue...in still hesitant
I don’t think that extended warranty is for the rear transfer assembly or the front diff. Maybe I’m wrong. Maybe you’ll get lucky or they’ll offer assistance towards repair (that’s my guess at what will happen).
but it’s old (by new car customer and dealer standards) and out of warranty. No business routinely gives away free money for old out of warranty product.
If you’re handy at all this could probably be fixed for free and “add a nice feature” to the vehicle. Install a switch on the rear solenoid to control 4WD and just turn it on and off. Turn it off for FWD and on for 4WD off-road or in snow. I’ve done it on the MPT model trans and I think it should also be the same on the VTDs.
Thanks. How much damage am I doing by continuing to drive it while trying to get it fixed?
-
14 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Torque bind.
Something in the rear extension housing is hosed.
Id probably source a used one or blown trans and pilfer the entire rear extension housing to swap out.
I’m not familiar with the VTD failure modes as they’re not common. As such I would be really hesitant to trust a dealer or shop on diagnosis and repair unless they’re good and trust worthy.
Bummer. I wonder if I can convince them to cover it under the extended warranty for the transmission.
-
On 10/18/2019 at 5:56 PM, idosubaru said:
1. Torque bind - most likely
Parking lot test I mentioned earlier will make it obvious to anyone who’s worked on Subaru’s with torque bind before. Do it and describe the symptoms as best as possible with a keyboard.
Yours has VTD and I’m not sure of the failure modes they have or what would need to be replaced if it’s binding. It’s in the rear extension housing and about $600 labor to get at it plus parts to repair.
inner axle joint is a remote possibility, broken boots aren’t the only failure mode for axle. At this age and mileage all of these are unlikely, I was just listing a few additional outlier options.
OK just got back from the parking lot.
Slow speed tight turns (steering wheel full lock, but not held against the stop) There is a regular periodic chirp from the outside front wheel, and a slight jerk of the steering wheel (not me!) corresponding to each chirp. The chirp period seems to vary accordingly with speed changes, but I really did not have a very broad range of speed to play with. It happens in both right and left turns, and the noise definitely comes only from the outside wheel (I had both front windows open and could tell the difference in which side it came from). The fact that it happened turning both ways, and the noise was from the outside wheel, would seem to rule out wheel bearings as a cause (unless both were bad, which is hard to imagine).
Very difficult to tell if the car was slowing down in the turns (requiring more gas). If I let off the gas, the car slowed down, but I did not have to increase throttle to maintain speed. I did try driving straight ahead to get up a bit of momentum, shifted to neutral and turned. No apparent difference. The chirp was still there as the car rolled through the turn, and slowed down (but not drastically so).
Odd thing about the noise: If I had not been driving a tight turn in a parking lot, I could as easily have described it as a metal-on-metal chirp as a tire chirp. It did not sound the same as the tire chirp I had heard other times. But, the parking lot had recently been resurfaced, so that could have been the interaction if the tires with different pavement surfaces.
Also, did not notice the rumble noise as much, but that could be because I did not accelerate out of the turns much (tight parking lot), and I was focused on maintaining speed (and the chirp). So. I did not give it too much throttle.
Still think it is torque bind?
-
9 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
ist the car new to you? if not, any repairs or wrecks before this began?
I bought it used. I am the second owner. It was always serviced at the Subaru dealer since new, and I have all the service records. No indication of any repairs or wrecks.
-
32 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
Are the axles original or have they ever been rebooted or replaced?
As far as I know, they are original. I bought the car used two years ago. It was a trade-in for a new one and had only been serviced at the dealer, so I have all the service records. No indication of any previous problem with CV joints or axles.
My experience with wheel bearings is they usually only make noise on the outside of turns, and I have never had a car that had both front wheel bearings go out at the same time. This new noise appears to be turning in both directions, so bearings seem an unlikely cause.
-
23 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
Just front to rear. CVT has a different mechanism than Manual
You ignored my questions and diagnosis.
If you think it’s the diff: check fluid level Then drain the fluid and check fluid for swirls or particulate or chunks.
Subaru diffs don’t typically make noise only at full lock or tight turns. That’s low miles and new so this is all surprising and diagnosis and data is better than guessing , but front diff is probably barking up the wrong tree and wasting your time unless additional symptoms exist we don’t know about.
Thanks. I did not think there was a viscous coupling in the front, controlling side to side torque, but there were two responses suggesting viscous coupling, so I was just brainstorming possible causes.
I did not mean to ignore your questions. Yes, tires are all the same size, same age, same wear.
I have not had a chance to try your suggested diagnosis checks yet.
The rumbling noise first became noticeable this week, but earlier I thought I had heard some tire chirp making a turn into a parking lot at about 20 mph and accelerating out of the turn, and wondered what was causing it.
There was another suggestion of inner CV joint. Boots appear to be intact. Do you think this may be the cause?
-
5 hours ago, turboguzzi said:
95% Viscous coupling inside the gearbox gone.... regretfully not a super cheap fix.
Had to change it in my girlfriend's forester, means gearbox out and changing the component.
Is there a viscous coupling in the front differential, controlling torque split between right and left axles? Or, is it controlling torque split between front and rear?
I have a CVT. Do you think this might be related, and covered under their extended transmission warranty?
-
3 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Sounds like it’s binding.
Do all of your tires match in size?
Need to determine if it’s binding, does it also feel like it’s slowing down/braking when it’s doing this?
Drive in a large paved lot where you and turn the steering wheel all the left or right. Just keep driving in a circle - does the car feel like it’s slowing down and taking more gas rather than coasting through the turn like it should?
Is this a manual transmission, then it’s probably binding and you need a new viscous coupler.
Not a manual, it is a CVT. Does the CVT use the same viscous coupler?
-
2013 Outback, 57,000 miles. Rumbling noise/feel from front end in tight low speed turns (parking lots). Does it turning both right or left. Only does it when applying throttle. Doesn't do it when sitting still and turning wheel (apparently not the power steering pump or rack). No indication of anything rubbing anywhere. CV boots look good.
Any thoughts?
-
I have a 2013 Outback, 2.5 with CVT. My sailboat trailer weighs about 1000 lbs fully loaded, no trailer brakes. Owner Manual says this is within max limits. Is this really doable? I live in western Colorado, elevation about 4500 feet. Mountain passes can be a bit more. I never tow my boat over 55 mph.
I don't want to kill my Outback, but it sure is more comfortable than my 30 year old Landcruiser (my main tow rig).
-
Only time I've seen air vents flap themselves shut is on a few older cars that the vent mechanism was broken and there was no resistance to hold the vents properly in place.
It's possible both of yours are damaged or worn for some reason. Or it could be that there's an obstruction of some sort (paper towel/ dead mouse) in the air tube which is causing increased air velocity through the center vents.
Possible, but I did notice that when I hold the center vent open, there is still a noticeably stronger airflow through the vent by the driver's door than the center vent.
The other thing that makes me curious is the air inlet selection button. When I switch from outside air to recirculate, the indicator light comes on, but the sound of the airflow doesn't change. In my old 1997 Legacy, it was much louder on recirculate that outside air.
-
I just bought a 2013 Outback, with the Automatic Climate Control. Whenever I turn the fan speed up past 1 (in face-level ventilation mode) or past 2 (in bi-level mode), the two center dash vents close. The little Open-Close thumbwheels snap over to the closed position, and seem to be held there by spring tension or air pressure. I can hold them open by hand, but they snap back to closed if I remove my hand.
Also, I do not seem to get much airflow to the driver's side feet, regardless of the mode setting.
Is this normal?
I did not notice this when I bought the car two months ago, but it was in the 60's then, and I did not need either the heater or the AC, so I really did not test them out.
-
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/power-brake2.htm
OK i see freezing as the cause. One side of the booster is exposed to moist cabin air, the other side to dry outside cold air. You Get this mix you get condensation. When the air is cold enough that condensatiuon freezes. Check valve doesnt have anything to do with it.
When it is below 35 the AC in the car does not work, so there is no way to dry out the air.
http://sg.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070202205101AAz5pfN
I just searched the net and i come up with an unsatisfactory answer (flush the brakes). In that one article that stated that, the respondont just did a flush the year before. (he had a 2000 subaru).
Now there arew two failure modes. The one with the bad master cylinder, the pedal goes to the floor. The freezing Power Brake booster, you get a very hard pedal.
best i can tell is that we all need pwer brake boosters (im not sold on that). If there is no recorgnized problem, then there is no solution.
For now, DO NOT DRIVE BELOW 30 DEGREES UNTILL YOU HAVE A BRAKE PEDAL!
nipper
At least in my case, I don't think the problem is moisture in the brake booster. I had the booster replaced with a new one, and the problem was essentially unchanged. I consider it unlikely both the old and the replacement boosters were exposed to conditions sufficiently similar to cause the same problems, while my other '97 Legacy parked next to it has never had this problem.
I am leaning towards the check valve theory, but haven't had the chance to try it yet.
Anybody know the cost of a replacement valve and hose from Subaru?
-
Certainly to a significant degree.
Possibly; isn't the full title "Lucas - Prince of Darkness"?
Yes, and FIAT is the acronym for "Fix it again Tony".
-
There was a recall on all '97s for master brake cylinders that fail in extreme cold. Sounds like they missed yours.
Juan
I just checked with the service department at my local Subaru dealer. They told me the master cylinder recall was for 1998, and it did not apply to '97. They did not show any brake system recall for the '97.
Since I've already replaced the booster, I'm now thinking master cylinder. But, any chance it could involve the ABS system, even if the ABS light doesn't come on?
-
maybe also check the condition of the powerbrake check valve. it is hidden in the middle of the hose that goes from the intake to the booster. pull it off and shoot air through either direction when it is cold. air should only flow one way.
Which way should it flow?
-
'97 Legacy. First thing in the morning, when it's very cold (like 0 degrees), when I first start the car, the brake pedal won't go down (just the pedal free travel, but no more). Very hard to push the pedal at all and almost no pedal travel. Rolling backwards in my driveway at about 10 mph, I can barely stop. After several tries, things return to normal, and no further problems.
It only happens first time you start up when it is very cold. If I let the car warm up for 5-10 minutes before moving, no problem. If it is above 0 degrees, no problem.
I thought it felt like no vacuum brake boost. We replaced the brake booster with a new one, but no improvement.
I have not been using the parking brake at night, so that is probably not the problem.
The ABS light comes on when you first turn the key on, so I know the light works, then it goes out when you start it and does not return, so I would guess the diagnostics don't think it's an ABS problem.
My other '97 Legacy never has this problem, starting both of them at the same time on the same mornings.
Any suggestions?
-
i thought the fogs were only on when the low beams were on. i know they are off when high beams are on. i never tried them without head lights.
Don't know about the factory set-up. That's how I've always wired my aftermarket lights. You can take the power for the switch from the marker or taillight wires, so they will go off when you turn all the lights off.
On my old Landcruiser, I wired them off the ignition side of the fuse panel, so they'll still work when the main lights fuse blows. That way I can still get some light forward in an emergency (don't ask how I learned that one either).
-
Hey all,
I am looking into getting some fog lights for my 06 legacy wagon.
The stock suby lights are about $300 and for that I can get the nice PIAA lights. Anyone have any other brands they like?
I have always thought amber lights were best for fog and snow but I am seeing lots of white lights as well...what's the deal here?
Thanks in advance.
Aaron
The real deal with fog lights is not the color, it is the flat cutoff on the top of the beam pattern. The idea is the fog lights project out forward below the fog layer, and do not cast light up into the fog (or snow) where it reflects back to blind you (like regular headlights do).
To be most effective when the conditions are the worst, you turn off your headlight main beams (leave marker and tail lights on) and use your fogs forward. Unfortunately, most state laws require you to have two white headlights forward. You can usually get away with using two white fogs instead of headlamps, but using only yellow fogs will get you a ticket (ask me how I know).
Also, my experience is the yellow does little to improve visibility in fog or snow, but it will make the yellow center lines much harder to see.
-
Sent you e-mail and PM.
-
If its an add on harness, you could go to a junkyard and pull one out of a car.....
nipper
...if there was a Legacy with the fog lights in a junkyard here, I'd have already pulled it out by now...but there are none. I was lucky to find even one Outback to get a switch out of.
-
I got the OEM Subaru Legacy Projector Fog Lamp Kit on ebay. It included the lamps, switch, relay and wiring harness. My '96 legacy "L" did not have the wiring pre-installed. I would assume "regular" Legacys do not have the wiring installed in the bumper ( unless they had dealer installed fogs )and that "Outbacks" do.
Here's some scans of the installation manual if you were wondering how the oem switch is wired..
Thanks for the info. (Thumbnails are kind of hard to read)
I checked with my locl Subaru dealer and both the projector and the standard fog light kits are no longer available.
Anybody have a kit they'd like to sell me?
-
Out of curiosity, look around the front fog light locations, the harness should be there. Then all you need really is the OE fog light relay.
nipper
Haven't found them yet. I have a Legacy L, not an Outback. I do know the rear wiring harnesses are not the same (Outback has a T connector for trailer wiring, my Legacy does not). I suspect it is the same up front and in the dash.
Can anybody confirm this?
Problems with new to me 2013 Outback
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
That is not a good noise! Hard to tell from your video, but do you think the noise is coming from the transmission?
How many miles on it? Take it to a Subaru dealer. The CVT trans has a 10 year-100,000 mile warranty.
My 2013 was having a torque bind problem. Took it to the dealer last week, and they replaced the transfer clutch piston and plates under warranty, and said if I had any more problems they would just replace the entire transmission.
Hard to say if the warning lights are related to the noise. I have never had any warning lights come on after startup.