L5wolvesf
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Posts posted by L5wolvesf
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2 hours ago, crazyman03 said:
On other vehicles I've run into a few things being the cause. Brake fluid and faulty ABS/Wheel sensors can cause a similar issue. The ABS light is can likley turn on when there is a problem with the Braking system and vice-versa. The hill assist like can also pop on for the same issue. I'd check brake fluid, brake fluid level sensor, wheel sensors - etc.
does the light turn on after she goes through a puddle/pothole/both? Does it occur on one side of the car vs the other?
Thanks for responding. I'll check the brake fluid etc.
We have a major road project happening here, on the road she has to drive to work, so the roads have been rough but not potholed.
The 3 lights just come on when she starts up and stay on.
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Hi Guys,
My gf has a 2015 Forester and asked about why 3 warning lights would come on at the same time without any symptoms of a problem. The 3 lights are: ABS warning, Hill Assist warning and Traction warning (at least that is what we think the last one is). The owner's manual is essentially a paper weight on this. A google search found the following about the interconnection with those 3 warning lights and the brake light switch.
http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/problems-maintenance-warranty/131786-abs-light-hill-assist-light-loss-traction-lights-dash-come.html
But, the brake lights work. So I'm seeking some input here.
Thank you in advance.
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There are gearing/speed/etc calculators online to help figure out some of it.
First you'll need to know what diff gears (front or rear) are available for your car - then run the numbers. A slight tire size adjustment might work in combo with gearing. Same would go for the trans gearing. It might be you run a lower gear and have to up shift.
There might be a bit of a trade off between getting the RPMs you want vs which gear you accelerate out with. You might make one better but the other off a bit.
Personally, I wouldn't sacrifice any handling (big stagger or tire changes).
What are your times vs. the fast qualifiers?
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I've had problems with the site so I haven't followed what all came of the ECU change/mods. I'm guessing it isn't affordable or doable.
Given that . . . what about the gearing?
Is there a gearing change (either in the diff or trans that will put you where you need to be and . . . without messing you up elsewhere on the track?
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How much compression are you running in the car?
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There is no way to tune the 2003. Which means its entirely possible (likely I would say) that it will be much too lean at WOT. Too much air, and not enough fuel because the stock mapping (which ignores the O2 feedback at WOT) will not have enough fuel or the correct timing for those modifications.
GD
I'm, obviously, no Subaru computer expert but I noticed you mentioned the BRZ above. So my thought here is - could he swap in a BRZ ECU onto his car and tune from there?
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If you need more top-end, increase your tire OD by an inch or 2 in height and it should bump MPH up w/o having to messing with ecm.
I agree that changing the tire size would do that, but there would be other consequences.
Raising the car an inch would affect the handling; that would be a significant raise in the CG. Also, we don’t know if or how much stagger he runs. We also don’t know what class he runs in so the level of prep allowed is unknown. I would guess it is a “mini-stock” type class and in some places mini-stock runs a spec tire (size and/or compound). A taller tire would also affect his acceleration which is important on starts and restarts.
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^^^^^^ +1
I was complaining about trapped air to a mechanic once and he said there's Toyota that requires filling through a hose first - it isn't rare or a Subaru-only issue. Purging air out seems tricky on certain engines. An old Honda I had , had a bleeder screw (like a brake caliper type) I had to loosen, then begin filling with coolant and close the screw when coolant shot out.
Toyota Pickups and 4Runners are that way. When you fill them put the vehicle on an incline and you're good.
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And I’m back after doing some research here and discussing it with a local-ish machine shop. Luckily one of the guys there is a “Subaru nut” and knows a lot about their engines. I also quizzed the owner on a couple items as a bit of a test and he was quite sharp.
But first, I did confirm I have the 2.5 – double humps on the timing covers.
In regard to the blown head gasket he asked if it had blown coolant into the crankcase. If there was coolant in the oil he agreed bearings can be an issue and the result could be doing the whole motor.
But in my case no coolant in the oil so the bearings, while having a lot of miles – but not knocking, should be OK. He did suggest putting a gauge on it to see what kind of oil pressure I am getting. So, next question, is there an easily accessible port I hook a gauge to, for a pressure reading?
I read here, and he also mentioned, the small oil pump the 2.5 comes with is a problem. Moving up to a bigger one was his thought too. He suggested if Melling, DNJ or Sealed Power make them for the 2.5 that would be his choice. So, last question (for now) – there seems to be a choice of a 10mm or 11mm pump, is the 11 worth going to on a basically stock engine or is the 10mm the better choice?
He said having them go through the engine would be a waste of their time and my money.
So my plan, once I confirm there is good pressure now, is to do the heads and related items. It will be $300 to completely do both heads with shave.
Thanks guys.
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404 not found
404+5=409 All Purpose Cleaner.
Weird it doesn't seem to work as I copied it.
This "should" work.
www.car-part.com
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Does anyone have a source for a full wiring harness?
I'm looking online and I can't find anything for a car this old.
I'm gonna have to do this wire by wire, aren't I?
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I've read your responses regarding the 2.5 and I'm going to read/research further on that.
I'll get back on here regarding that.
One question: why not just rebuild the existing 2.5? It did 184k (ish) and others have turned alot and lots of miles.
Thank you
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I'm surprised that no one answered your questions. First your can have either the Ej2.5D or the Ej2.2. Subaru made both in 2017. However, since it's overheating, the odds are 1000/1 that you have the Ej2.5D. You can easily tell by looking at the shape of the timing belt cover. On the Ej2.5D, the timing cover has obviously TWO cam pulleys on each side, each about 8" in dia, versus one on each side for the Ej 2.2.As to what you should do now? If it were me, I would look for and swap in a Ej2.2, without regard to the miles on it. I'm retired so I would have a lot of time to work on subaru maintenance, but i have no time to work on a Ej2.5D. As GD says, the Ej2.2 engine can have a bad HG. I even had a 95 Ej2.2 which bubbled in the coolant overflow tk. at 217Kmile so I know. But I'll take my chances with the Ej2.2 anyway. Right now, I'm maintaining two Ej2.2 cars, one with 175 Kmiles and the other with 250 Kmiles. Neither has a head gasket problem and I'm sure that both have the original HG. If I bought a motor, however, I would have the HG changed as well as a complete timing belt kit just to be safe.
Thank you for the answer and additional input.
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How many miles on the 2.5?
184k and thanks for the input
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So I picked up a 1997 Legacy Outback a couple months ago for $500 knowing I would have to change out a blown head gasket (driver’s side). It drives OK, but with a noticeable miss, until you have to go up an incline – then it starts to get hot. Water is not getting into the oil. Lucky for me the majority of the 50 mile drive home was down hill so it only got hot a couple times. The rest of the car is in very good condition. It is not my daily driver at this point, but it may be after I get it fixed.
I’m getting ready to figure out exactly what parts to order and I need to figure out a few things. From my reading here so far I should have the EJ25D 2.5L DOHC engine – is that correct? I can verify that by checking the timing cover design – is that correct too?
I plan on doing both heads and the timing belt as preventative measure since most everything will be off anyway. Anything else I should replace while in there?
Also, are there any simple items I might consider upgrading, or modifying, while I’m in there?
Is there anything I should be looking for once I have it apart?
Finally, if the head(s) need to be shaved how much is the max on these engines?
Links to threads that cover these things would be appreciated along with any other tips or info.
Thank you
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Hi all, like to title says I'm new to USMB but not new to cars or life. When I was younger I briefly wrenched for a living but I prefer to do it mostly for myself and for fun. Fun meaning racing; I raced autoX and then SCCA road racing for years and hope to take another shot at it before it's "too late". I did a partial season of roundy round and one off road race. None were in Subarus but I've been keeping my '78 Wagon to serve as a service vehicle for longer off road races.
I'll be reading up on the '97 Ru Outback first as it has a blown head gasket so I'll be looking for some details on that and maybe doing a few upgrades while I'm in there.
L
P.S. Oh yeah, I'll try to help with answers where I can so as not to be a total leach here.
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FWIW, the 32/36 DG series Webers are sensitive to fuel pressure. 2.5 psi is the recommended pressure, 3 psi is max.
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Warning LightS on 2015 Forester
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Sooo, I ran an errand this AM with the car several stops and voila no warning lights come on. They were on yesterday I saw them.
When the next scheduled service comes up she will have them check it further. Unless it happens again.
Thank you for all the input - much appreciated.