booki
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Posts posted by booki
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Hey all, I have a MY09 subaru forester xt, 5 speed man.
The car has had a heap of new parts (will be detailed in a list), and now the car is somewhat overheating. I have been monitoring my cars coolant temps via a obd2 gauge and have noticed the following concerning scenario's (keep in mind, it is our winter at the moment with temps ranging 10c on average).
While the car is idling stationary the cars temps will get up to 95c, fans will kick on, bring the temp down to 94c and the fans will stay on indefinitly. Fans are working correctly - just the car isn't cooling down. Normally I would expect the fans to kick on, and the temps to start coming down to maybe the high 80's.
While driving, specifically just at light load/cruise - the cars temps will climb, as long as my foot is on the accelerator pedal they continue to rise. i have had them as hot as 99c, I would imagine it would just keep getting hotter if I was on a long freeway drive, but I don't want to do any damage to the motor as its all new. Also these are just straight roads (not hilly or anything strenuous), but as soon as I let go of the accelerator the temps will come down , but still hover in the low 90c range then just slowly creep back up. Something isn't right...
Normal temps to my understanding are generally around the 82c-91c range. This would be in all conditions, from light cruise to heavy traffic. General rule of thumb here. Thats the response's I have gotten from other owners of the same car in my climate.
Now the things that are worth noting;
Brand New EJ257 Shortblock
Reco Heads
ARP Head studs
VF52 Turbo, TBE, 3port
OEM Head Gaskets Used
Brand new Mishimoto Radiator
Waterpump replaced during shortblock install - Mizumo Auto Kit (Mishiboshi belt, gmb pump and tensioners)
New Hoses everywhere
New Thermostat
Troubleshooting I have done - everything listed here has made no effect on temps;
Tried running with no thermostat - no difference
Tried bypassing heatcore - no difference
Tried two different radiators - no difference
Tried a new thermostat - no difference
Replaced Temp Sensor - no difference
Ran water through the thermostat housing, seemed to flow through fine
Bleed the system, Even had a shop bleed the system prior the dyno tune - no difference
The shop commented on the temps being unusual compared to there "norm" Subaru EJ tunes
The only thing I have not replaced is the water pump during this troubleshooting - being as it was brand new during the shortblock replacement....but maybe the GMB pumps are not up to the task compared to OEM water pumps?
See some Videos here;
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLqe9onC8cv6aPvbzUwN_p8VKiEKH0Oswj
Sorry for the long post, but the car is currently apart and I have a new genuine water pump to put in it - I have noticed some difference's between the GMB pump and the Genuine pump, but they are minor and I wouldn't think would cause a poor flow issue....but I guess time will tell once I put the genuine pump in. -
and...video uploaded
Do I build a motor, buy a EJ257 short block from subaru and put my heads on it? (Does that work well?) or just get my heads reco'd and call it a day.
At this stage I am still doing some homework, but if there are some engine veterans around I would appreciate any advice.
If I am to go with say a brand new short block from subaru, reco my heads and put on maybe a 20g TD06? Would it be safe/reliable ? How much power can the factory drivetrain handle?
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Alright. Pretty sure I have diagnosed the issue - to those following my diagnosis will be "uploaded" shortly...
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Put 25psi into it quickly today - didn't really want to go much more.
Couldn't see any leaks but didn't have it in the garage to check it out properly (was just outside in the sun).
At 25psi I would think the leak would be super obvious....but apparently not !
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Do you have any silicone hoses on your forester? I ask because silicone has x10-x15 the permeability of EPDM rubber and can allow for coolant loss through evaporation.
No silicone hoses on my foz - I have heard the same thing that silicone hoses will allow evaperation at a way higher rate then rubber hoses. Even so, in the event I did have silicone hoses, I doubt I should need to top up the overflow after every engine heat cycle.
maybe UV dye would help?
I once read of a throttle body with some odd crack that allowed coolant to be sucked into the engine!
That sounds like a good idea!! Are there special dyes for cooling systems or just any old dye will do? Can it damage anything by putting it in there? Logic makes me think not, but never hurts to ask.
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I have a aftermarket alloy style radiator. Recently replaced due to a split in the header tank on the factory plastic one. Car was loosing/using coolant before the rad split open though.
I am assuming that the overflow should stay pretty much at the same level though? It keeps going lower after I top it off - thats why I assume im loosing coolant.
The expansion tank (upper water tank) is always at the correct level, but I am assuming thats because I keep topping up the overflow.
If I let it run low in the overflow, I assume its only a matter of time till it starts loosing it from the expansion tank.
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Checked the coolant level in the overflow before driving today - had to top up quite a bit. hoping that just a some air was in there after removing a hose to fit a worm gear clamp on.
Fingers crossed for tomorrow, otherwise I will be pressure testing again at a higher psi.
I am a little worried if the heatercore will hold up or not to that kind of pressure though.
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I thought I would damage something at that kind of pressure. I thought I was being pretty bad rump roast with 20-21psi haha.
Anyway after leaving it pressurized I managed to find two very miniscule leaks.
One where the expansion tank connects to the radiator, and one on the bottom radiator hose going to the motor. All these clamps are the factory clamps - the rabbit ears style I call them. Swapped them out for regular old worm gear style clamps.
Here is hoping I won't have to keep topping up - otherwise bring on 30psi haha.
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I have got the car in the air, have it under some decent pressure in the cooling system 20-22psi. Don't really want to run much more into it.
Have checked where the heads and block meet (headgasket), while there are some dried coolant stains in that area, I could not see any leaks.
These stains could have been caused by spilt coolant I am guessing.
I did have a look at the water pump as best as I could without taking off the harmonic balancer etc, there is also some dried coolant around the water pump - but my inspection camera is not that great quaility so its hard to see if thats 100% the area.
I have only done my pressure testing on a cold engine. Will leave it pressurized for a bit and hopefully find a leak/drip somewhere...
I can definitley smell coolant from the engine bay, just want to see a conclusive sign to say its "XX" before pulling the motor and taking action.
Worst case I think I will just keep topping it up - I am sure it will get worse and the problem will reveal itself.
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Hey all,
I have a 2009 Subaru Forester XT with a 5 speed manual.
I have noticed my cars overflow bottle is always requiring a topup, this cannot be normal.
So I have been looking everywhere for a leak. I have used my coolant pressure tester and had the system at 20psi and have not been able to find a leak
It will slowly loose psi, approx 1 psi every 3-5 minutes. Sometimes it will drop quite quickly...
I have checked the top two radiator hoses, they appear fine. no leaks there radiator side and engine size. Heater hoses look good no weeping there, Thermostat housing - no leaks.
I am starting to run out of places to look.....I can smell coolant most times when I pop the bonnet - the car runs great, no issues with power and the oil/coolant are not contaminated.
Turbo lines look ok as well - no crusty coolant residue and no leaks while under pressure.
I got a buddy to follow me while I gave my car some heavy loads/acceleration to see if there was any smoke out the tail pipe - apparently no smoke.
I am lost!
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Just to put a end to this topic - I put the car back together, gave everything a good coat of grease and all is well.
I believe it was a combination of problems - a worn/uneven clutch fork, input shaft housing grooves, worn clutch fork clip, worn pivot ball and of course - lack of lubrication.I used this pdf as a guide to how much grease to put on, http://www.subispeed.com/instructions/t ... earing.pdfSo far no issues and it hasn't made any noises
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Thanks Micky,
I have almost put everything back together and was pretty generous with the grease.
I found this article which gave mea good idea on how much grease to apply - www.subispeed.com/instructions/tsb-clutch-release-bearing.pdf
I ended up replacing the retaining clip on the fork, the fork itself and the pivot ball the fork rides on, and installed the sleeve and new release bearing to suit.
Everything got a good coat of grease. Put the gearbox back in today, but started to get a bit too dark in my work area so will finish the rest tomorrow.
that said the clutch pedal feels great and I did not notice any odd noises. So far so good, it also felt much more study and solid once everything was clipped in. No where near as much side to side movement as before.
Will post up once I have the car running.
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Sorry I should have been more clear, the sound was infact there before I replaced the clutch kit. It is indeed the same sound.
I think maybe it was lack of lubrication, as I have seen some others liberally apply grease to the fork and pivot ball.
You where right in saying I did not want to hear that!
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Since I bought the car....at 190,000km. Pretty much happened as soon as the new clutch kit went in. So from 195k to now which has been at least 5km
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The car has done approx 201,000-202,000km.
clutch was changed at 195,550km. Parts changed was in the exedy clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch plate, spigot bearing and throw out bearing)
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It doesn't rattle against the housing, I think the noise comes from the bearing rattling on the shaft? I am not sure..but I know it has something to do with the bearing and the fork.
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I did move the clutch fork away, so into the slave cylinder while the engine was idling. The noise was still present from memory, but honestly I can't remember 100%.
I know that once activating the clutch, moving the clutch fork in the regular direction to activate the release bearing the noise would disappear. Perhaps there was too much free play? I did not adjust the free play of the clutch.
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The dust boot had always been on.
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how far in do you have to push the clutch in to notice the lack of chirping....
Can't measure it exactly now but it would be approximately 4cm to 8cm of pushing in the pedal. Pretty much a tad before you have to apply any force
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Pretty much all the time. Hot/Cold doesn't matter, only goes away once the RPM's go up say past 2000rpm.
There is no clutch fork return spring, I believe these are the parts
No spring.
As per video, I am not sure what the cause of this is. Could it be a worn fork? Worn clip? There is not many parts in there.
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At approx 7 seconds, I have my foot pressed on the clutch pedal. At about 9 seconds I release it and you can hear a light whistling/chirping noise. It sounds kind of like belt sequel but its the fork rocking side to side.
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Hey mate link is in the description of the video.
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No spring..can't see any spring on any parts diagrams either.
If the bearing isn't meant to touch, then i can't see how it won't make noise
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Plan on going to the dealer tomorrow (if they are open) and plan on getting;
Clutch Fork
Clutch Fork Spring
Clutch Fork Pivot Ball
Thats pretty much all the moving components. I have resealed the plate at the rear and put in a new rear main seal back when I swapped out the clutch a few months ago.
I am more curious if thats even going to stop the issue. There is so much slop/play in the whole setup. Are they meant to be like that?
Or is the throw out bearing simply meant to be "preloaded" onto the pressure plate?
Since you are in so far, I'd replace the fork and get a new dust boot for the trans.
When you put the new fork in put a dab of grease on the pivot point.
With the sleeve and new throughout bearing you should be good to go.
Have you resealed the air oil breather plate on the back of the block already? If not I'd do that as well.
Overheat/Won't cool down efficiently issue - Long post/videos
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I am chasing those temps you have seen. They seem normal to me.
Fans on at 95c is the default ecu program. They should bring the temps down rapidly... though they don't.
I am using a OEM thermostat and will be replacing it just to be sure when I change the pump. The stat is rated at 78c from memory. And is fully open by 92c.