OR'sLonewolf
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Posts posted by OR'sLonewolf
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you will need to use a set of 95+ rear axles to use the 96 rear diff. 95 + diffs have internal engagement, with axles that have stubs that go into the diff.
OR alternately you could swap the ring gear onto the 92 carrier and keep the diff's external stubs that way.
Thanks for the heads up on that one. It will leave me some options. I'm getting mixed answers about the 95 tranny into the 92. I can see it is OBD II.........can't seem to find any wiring pin out DIY info. Any thoughts?
Be prepared to swap the pinion flange too. They changed to a larger bolt pattern for the driveshaft somewhere in the mid 90s.
Safe to say I can take off the pinion flange from the 92 and put it on the 95 4.11 carrier? or? I've worked on engines, but not tranny's and rear diff stuff so I'm a total loss here.
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Hi to all to those that might know about my $200 Lego project car and others.
The tranny needs replacing. I sourced a 96 AWD Tranny with 130k miles as well as the 4.11 matching diff and the ECU from same vehicle for replacement into my 4wd 92 Lego wagon 3" lift project.
Will it be a direct swap of the diff into the 92 or will braces etc need to be taken from the 96 donor for it to work on the 92.
Can someone please share with me the problems I might run into along the way of said swap out with either the transmission or Diff? I haven't even looked back there yet to know the differences.....dropping the trans tomorrow just preparing trying to keep myself from problems of course.
Thanks to all that have replied in the past and now. 4 months and counting until the Gambler500 in OR.
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92 MT is 4.11
92 AT is 3.9
Yeah, The FSM I had showed that the GX model, I guess from Austrailia or something, had the 4.11 for autos (4wd) and 3.9 for MT. Either way, I checked the tag not knowing it had one and it's a 3.9. I'm aiming at a 95/96 AWD tranny with 130k on it and the 4.11 diff for $550 shipped and a 90 day warranty. I'm playing it smart and getting the TCU from the same car too.
Due to my lack of understanding of the car as of yet, I'm thinking the front diff matches the auto T and the rear diff..........in my case, being I have a rear Diff of 3.9 and will be switching it to 4.11....................don't I have to change the front diff as well to 4.11? Or is it some sort of different system all together and all I need is the tranny with 4.11 rear diff from the 95. I think all I need is just the tranny and rear 4.11 diff from what I am reading. Thanks.
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Have you ruled out one of the most common sensors to fail in the Subaru............the knock sensor? Symptoms of failure?...loss of gas mileage.
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ya know, after some thought, take a look at your knock sensor. Seems what I have read these are common sensors to fail and also have the symptom of loss in mileage. Should be 5v.
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If you get one from a yard make sure the pan isn't crushed in. The solenoids on the valve body can be damaged easily if the pan gets dented.
Thanks for the input, I'll keep my eye out.
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Pressure control solenoid doesn't have any bearing on fluid flow. It bleeds off some of the pressure if the pressure gets above a certain threshold which is determined by fluid temp/gear position/and several other factors on some electronic controlled trans.
There are PSCs that work based on mechanical pressure differential. Also keep in mind this is not a sensor, and doesn't reflect or indicate a pressure problem.
More than likely if you have no pressure that's due to a suction leak (the pump can't draw any fluid), a clog or leak in the pump discharge port, or a wasted pump or stuck pressure control valve in the pump.
If the fluid was very dark, a clogged filter is possible. If the car was driven for long with excessively dirty/burned fluid or clogged filter the pump could just be wasted.
thanks for the reply. somehow i was thinking maybe if they were blocked by the solenoids, fluid wouldn't pass. as it looks, i'll just take a gamble of the used trans from the yard. seems over my head to dig in and replace the pump. solenoids and clutch pack wouldn't be a problem though. last thing i want is me sitting on a grenade.
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Hey Suba gurus........This is my first Soobie and automatic project I've had so yeah, noobie here. My persistent search comes up dry of this search engine and Google for this question. The ride? A 92 4wd LS wagon. Miles? Never understood why this even matters with any problem nor why people always want to know.
Just trying to keep myself from pulling the transmission and replacing with another possible POS tranny from a yard................30 day warranty or not.
Here is the Sitrep. Previous owner I think was being honest when she said one morning it just wouldn't move in gear and it had hesitation moving. Won't move in any gear. Oil level ok. I'm not getting any pressure from my trans it seems. During the tranny flush, nothing was flowing out either front radiator trans cooler lines. No noise indicating trans oil pump problems and no whining of the torque converter. It just sits quietly. Just minor metal on the magnet most likely from the clutch pack disks that will probably need replaced along with the Duty C as I have a code 24. This code probably happened because of lack of oil pressure and heat build up. Yeah, oil was dirty. I then decided to search out and test the Pressure control solenoid as it might be stuck shut keeping the oil from flowing. Seems to make sense to me based on my limited knowledge of autos.
First off, does it seem legit that the Line Pressure solenoid might be bad keeping it from flowing fluid? Does the Solenoid B, if not working, prevent fluid from creating pressure as well? I think the Duty B is a lock up solenoid for the TC. Duty B doesn't seem to be working as a test with a 9volt battery caused no clicking sound and ohms drop down to zero when tested. I think it should be between 9-17 ohm.
So, with Duty C throwing a code, Duty B failing resistance test and maybe the Duty A also being bad........seems like something bad is going on. Sure would hate to get rid of a transmission if it's just a solenoid or two and a bad clutch pack that I can learn to replace.What do you all think? IF, the pump is bad.................wouldn't there be some sort of noise??
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Not just repinning. The AWD control is different, uses 3 speed sensors, Different TPS signals, etc....
you must use a phase I trans. 90-98
If you want 4.44....(which you don't need, you'd be fine with another 4.11) But if you want 4.44, get a trans from a 96-98 Automatic Legacy Outback (not-outback sport) or from a 98 Forester.
For 4.11 : 90-91 Legacy. 95-98 Legacy
Seems like a bit too much work to get the 4.444 rear and tranny to work for just a little more oomph. I think if I just hard wire a "power switch" to get the power mode to be activated with just a toggle I should very well be fine with the higher RPMs. I think it is the pin 4 mod to switch then to ground mod.......can't remember. Thanks for the reply. Just for giggles maybe you would know. Not doubting that the 92 might be a 3.9 tranny, but I could swear the FSM said the 4WD 92 was a 4.11. Am I reading it wrong? Thanks.
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90 to 98 are direct fit.
What you want is a late 98 Outback model with the 4.444 ratio and matching rear diff (get rear axles too).
GD
Great to see so many Oregonians replying and on this forum. Somehow, I"m not finding any 4.444 diffs and autos for OB but from later years like an 08 or so. This is my first Subie and I feel like a lost sheep noob here. Would it be safe to say I would have a lot of repinning on the ECU or TCU as my 92 is OBDI and can you help me understand what other parts I might need like brackets etc to pull this off should I consider this option. I'm liking those gear ratio numbers for sure. Do you know offhand of a thread that pulled this combo off as a guideline? And....................are you doing the Gambler500 this year??? That is what I'm building this car for. Never heard of it.......YouTube it. Great fun!!
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It's tyhe same thing.
They called it "fulltime 4wd" for a while, and then swapped to the simpler AWD in later years.
All of them are the same even the connectors from 90-98 just gotta find the correct ratios.
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Seems to make sense. So, will a "4wd" still show signs of TB? I think it has LSD if my lack of coffee and reading comprehended correctly. Also, I guess it's safe to say if I do find one with the right ratio, (I think it's 4.11 for the 4wd) and I use another year.........best to get the TCU as well I would think. ? I found one in La Grande out of a 93 AWD.
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I agree Idosubaru.............start with checking the knock sensor to see if it has 5v.......then go to 02 sensors.......
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Not sure if it's been mentioned as I didn't read it, but I have a Toy that had the same issue, turned out the knock sensor was out of spec. I think testing a Sub knock sensor should give you 5v. A quick change on the toy and it fixed the power and mileage right away. Something to think about if it hasn't been mentioned.
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Automatic 4EAT: 1990-1991 = 4.11; 1992-1994 = 3.90; 1995-1998 2.2 = 4.11; 1996-1998 = 4.44. 1991-1994 EJ22T / TURBO = 3.90.
I thought I read it was the manual 92 that had the 3.90 and the auto 4wd had the 4.11..........with so much info I've been reading, it's all like scrambled eggs upstairs.
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90 to 98 are direct fit.
What you want is a late 98 Outback model with the 4.444 ratio and matching rear diff (get rear axles too).
GD
Thanks for the input. I rather like that idea should I need a new tranny. I'll know tomorrow as I'll be testing out the solenoids. I think the pressure solenoid might be stuck due to old oil and I know I'm getting a duty C code 24 which might need a clutch pack too. If it's a no go, I very well might go this route........thanks for the input everyone. This is my first Subie and first ever automatic toy. There is that learning curve after all. Between the car, the OB tranny and 98 Forrester struts.............this thing is becoming a Frankenstein.
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I didn't read the above so see if it was mentioned, but.........check your clutch fluid level.....bleed and put in new. If not that, then your master need replacing.
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While you are in there, consider cleaning your IAC ( idle air control) using throttle body cleaner. Should this become clogged, you will be forcing more fuel in to keep it running properly with the air/fuel mix........you might also have less that smooth idle. While you are at it, a radiator flush is something to be done. Always good to do that every 25k miles or so anyway IMO. ALSO, consider cleaning your MAF sensor located in your air intake if your car has it. CNC Mass Air Flow cleaner is your ticket to a more balanced fuel/air curve resulting in better gas mileage...........but yeah, I would start with your O2 sensor.
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O2's, Even if there's No Code?
I have known them to become faulty without throwing a code. Best option? Find out the resistance and check them. You might be able to clean them as well with carb cleaner. I've done it once with success on my 4Runner. OR, if it has been a while before they have been changed, I would just do them anyway. There is only one to the best of my knowledge. Something to think about for sure. Research loss of mileage and bad 02 sensors.
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Hey all,
I picked up a 92 Lego 4wd with a bad auto tranny for a bill. Should it not be the selenoids or if it's a bad pump, I'll be searching for another tranny. I might just replace the clutch pack and Duty C selenoid if the pressure is OK.
I'm finding little info about the early 90s 4wd transmissions. When searching, do I just look for an AWD and expect some wiring re pins somewhere or do I need an actual 4wd transmission? Any idea of what changes might need to be made? Should I need a 4wd, and not find one, can the 92 be converted to AWD using an awd tranny?
Also, any transmission up to 94 will be a direct plug and play so long as it's a 4.11 rear. Any transmission 95- 99 or so, so long as it has a 4.11 rear end will work but the transmission plug ( I think gray one) will need to be re pinned to match the 92. Is that right?
Thanks for the help guys. I'm doing the Gambler500 in Oregon this year and I'll need it running by mid July. Should be fun fun fun.
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I made my air strut compressor into an air inflation system for my tires while off roading. Simple push of the button inside the cab activates the compressor that has an inline shut off set for the PSI of my tires. Attach to valve, push a button and done. Pretty cool, if you actually have a compressor that works.
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Could be the fuel mix for winter but don't overlook the o2 Sensors!!
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Just wondering if anyone has modified their air compressor, (early Legacy) if theirs works, to be used as on on board tire compressor for off-road use..........and if they have done it how? Seems like it would be a good thing to figure out for us off road critters.
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I just fixed this today due to the same problem. I agree with Gloyale..............fuseable link. It's in the engine bay fuse box. It's basically a black wire that is connected to two spade connectors on the left. I just took a 18 guage wire, I think, opened up the female connectors, and put them on the wire and crimped them. Problem solved!!
1993 Legacy AT transmission compatibility
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Thanks for the info on this. I have a 95 auto going into my 92 project car. You mentioned "flex plate". Would this come off of the 95 transmission I'm getting. It's that another name for a flywheel? Is there a difference between the 95 flywheel and the 92 flywheel? And if my current TC in the 92 is OK, I guess if I understand I can just reuse it on the 95 and not need the flexplate/flywheel?