YOWZA

CowaBUNGa!! Mission accomplished. After working on it for half the day, I became frustrated and reached out for help and sure enough soon afterwards it busted loose. I think i tried all your suggestions and not sure which one worked, but I appreciate your help. thanks

My 1996 outback barely failed smog so I've decided to change out the sensors, change my oil and plugs and run some “guaranteed to pass smog stuff” I ended up breaking off the rear sensor but its a very clean looking break and can be welded back on the cat. Any ideas on how I can separate the sensor from the cat part? Ive tried heat, ice, wax, pb, etc, etc

Here we are 5 months later, I've driven 2000 miles. It's running great with better gas mileage. Should I be tightening anything or making any adjustments? The alternator and ac belts seem to be fine.

Finally, after the 4th time I've got everything lined up. All that's left to do is install the radiator. Thanks everyone for your help. Your checks are in the mail.

My camara was upside down. The exhaust or bottom one is the one that's off.

These marks were lined up. After pulling pin I rotated the crank and this is how it looks. All other marks line up.

I mean 360 degrees. Just turn it a revolution?

Thanks Idosubaru! I ended up taking off the belt and decompressing the tensioner. Put it all back together, pulled the pin, all marks looked good. However, after turning the crank 2-3 times, the 2 marks on the bottom cam drivers side is off by about 2 teeth. Next time I take the belt off should I rotate the bottom cam 180 degrees? Would that make a difference?

Looked like all marks and tooth count were correct...pulled pin...looks like it could be off a tooth on the bottom cam drivers side. Is there a way to fix this without taking the belt off?

Pix

How exact should the 2 marks (6 o'clock and 12) be lined up? All the other marks are right on and the correct amount of teeth between cams and pulleys. However, these marks are slightly off on both sides.

Looks like I'm using "Made in China" product from Gates. Any precautions I should be looking at? I guess this cheap product won't last as long as the Japanese made product. Next time I'll know better. Thanks.

Thanks for your replies. This topic is being continued in the 90's forum.

Thanks, I was wondering about those slotted holes. Also, after the pulleys are torqued on, can you spin them? Mine turn freely, but don't keep spinning. Should I have oiled these?

Finally back at it! I'm putting the new pulleys on and want to make sure the timing belt tensioner is in the correct position. This tensioner looks different than the ones I've been viewing on line. Looks like most of them are 1 piece. I can't remember what it looked like when I took it off. ( should of taken pix) I guess the tensioner, after the pin is pulled, will hit against the bracket behind the pulley. Does this all sound right?

Got it. Thanks!

Thanks for the comments. I've lined up the crank, as in the photo. The pulleys on the passenger side are lined up. However,the 2 on the drivers side, I've come to a spot where both pulleys are spring loaded. The top (clockwise) and the bottom (counter clockwise) I guess there will be a point where they will spring loose the farther I go? I have turned the crank 1 full revolution and it didn't change anything.

Yes. I was in the Meet and Greet department. That's great! I will be back at it tomorrow. Your reply has given me some confidence. Thanks!

QUACK I've been posting in the wrong section. I'll give it another go here. (darn newbies) I've been searching and googling without any help. I took off my timing belt before lining up the marks. (yes, I'm a rookie) Water pump is in and now comes the hard part. (i think) I turned the crankshaft so the mark is lined up. The intake and exhaust pulleys on the drivers side move but I can't line them because of the pressure. The intake on the passenger side is stuck and the exhaust is free wheeling. Should I move the crank around to help with this movement OR should I just apply more pressure on the pulleys? I'd appreciate any help. Thanks!

I've been searching and googling but came up short on what I need to know. So I would appreciate any help at all. (I was going to change the title of this thread from chain to belt, but couldn't figure that out either.) I lined up the mark on the crankshaft. I can turn the intake and exhaust pulleys on the drivers side until I feel pressure, so I stopped. They're almost lined up but not quite.. The intake on the passenger side doesn't move and the exhaust is free wheeling...soooo.... Do I need to turn the crankshaft more in order to line these up OR do I need to apply more pressure when turning the pulleys.

If it's that simple, why is it important to line up the marks before taking off the belt? At least, that's what I've been reading. Are you sure I won't bend or mess up the valves?

I am a rookie that made a rookie mistake. I removed my timing belt before lining up the marks. I haven't turned any of the pulleys, but I did notice the top pulley on the passenger side turned when I took the belt off. I went ahead and put a new water pump in and now it's time to figure out this mess I've gotten myself into. (Hopefully it's not as bad as I think) I know I'm not suppose to turn the pulleys since it might bend the valves. Any help would be greatly appreciated.