Vanson1200R
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Posts posted by Vanson1200R
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1 hour ago, DaveT said:
They won't extend far enough once assembled to unload the spring enough for the perch to float off the studs.
Not fitting over the bump at the top edge, that's odd. Maybe grind cut away a little to make the hole big enough? How close is the interference?
It's a metric mile but I work at a ZF Marine transmission shop so that's a non issue. I can make it work but even the directions are incorrect lol
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5 minutes ago, DaveT said:
It looks like it should go together this way -
Orient the strut vertically, like it would be in the car. Screw the 2 stud bolts into the nuts on the wing from the top. Set the round perch down onto the studs. Put the cotter pins in the holes on the stud / bolts.
I thought the same at first but there is nothing to hold the rounded ends in the spring perch. It could sit static but any strut extension would result in the strut falling apart. Another issue is that the perch will not even fit over the end of the strut! Ugh...
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7 minutes ago, el_freddo said:
Got any pics of these struts?
Cheers
Bennie
I added a photo.
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Has anybody bought or have experience with the Gabriel Ultra struts with ride height adjustability? I just opened the box and they don't make any sense. The spring perch won't even fit over the strut itself and the adjusters are totally unlike the original struts. And of course no instructions.
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Still minor carb issues and currently running Seafoam through it. Any of you guys ditch your stock fuel tank for a fuel cell? My tank's suction and return lines are clogged after 20 plus years of sitting. I found a fuel cell that would fit in the bed and take up very little room.
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Its alive! Thanks naru2!
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12 hours ago, naru2 said:
Check the fuel inlet filter under the banjo bolt.
Check that the throttle body is tight.There is a screw underneath that comes loose.
That was it!
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9 hours ago, naru2 said:
Check the fuel inlet filter under the banjo bolt.
Check that the throttle body is tight.There is a screw underneath that comes loose.
Huh. I did not know there was a filter under the banjo bolt. Thanks for the info!
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10 hours ago, naru2 said:
Good news that it was running so recently.
It does appear that the carb may be empty because of a stuck float.
First thing to try is tapping the float bowl with a soft hammer type device preferably with the fuel pump running.
That almost always works.It might stick again though.
You may have to take the top off to see what is going on if that does not work.Nothing to lose.
You don`t have to have a new gasket from a carb kit.I didn`t have one.
As long as the old gasket does not break at a strategic location,it is reusable.
Worst case,you would need to make a gasket w/some punches and a xacto knife.
The carter weber gasket looks simple enough,I`ve made more intricate ones.
Base gaskets are a piece of cake.
Thanks for the info. I took the carb off and took it to my shop I work at and flushed it with warm solvent and gave it a good shaking to get all the solvent out but once I reinstalled it I had the same issue. I'll tap it with a soft hammer then like you said I have nothing to loose by taking the top off.
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16 hours ago, naru2 said:
The float might be stuck.
Does fuel make it INTO the carb?Does the accelerator pump squirt?
It does not appear to. The strange thing is that it ran about 8 months ago before I swapped in my Pick and Pull transmission. It has been warm and dry inside my garage but now the accelerator pump won't squirt.
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I installed a new fuel pump and replaced all the fuel lines and filters. I turn the key and the pump starts, filters fill up and I get fuel out of the return line but no fuel to the motor. I dump gas down the carb and it runs for a few moments or as long as I'm dumping gas in it. Any ideas?
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4 hours ago, naru2 said:
I think I will do just that.
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The data tag on my Carter Weber reads TYF7419SA. Most of the catalogs I'm looking at gives me two choices of carburetors and I'm not sure which one to go with for my application. One asks for two vaccum lines on the pulse solenoid (what's that?)
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On 4/24/2019 at 4:42 AM, naru2 said:
Your Brat is nice enough to spend some effort keeping it stock.You will be glad you did in the future.
Every joker has a Weber.with one of those cheesy little airfilters and no carb heat.
Carter/Weber kits are readily available,if a little pricey.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-84-CARB-KIT-CARTER-TYF-MODEL-2-BARREL-CARBURETOR-VW-RABBIT-SUBARU-1800/261466892303?hash=item3ce0a4280f:g:zYMAAOSwvg9XYZ0q
Complete rebuilt carbs are about $300 from several sources.
http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetors-remanufactured.php?c=124
http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=sub001
The Carter/Webers run fine.I preferred mine over the Hitachi.
They have some advantage over the Hitachi w/its vacuum secondary.
They allow you to open the throttle completely at low engine speed(like a weber DGV) giving slightly better low to mid range response.
Only trouble I recall was the throttle body coming loose from the float bowl.
Here is a decent rebuild tutorial https://performancetechnician.com/1988/10/carburetor-clinic-carter-weber-one-barrel/
Good luck.
Fantastic information thank you. I think I will pop for the complete rebuilt unit to eliminate any issues and then keep my old carb as a extra.
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On 4/25/2019 at 9:17 PM, GeneralDisorder said:
Exactly. Considerable body damage to drivers rear quarter, paint is shot, front bumper dents.... the man is trying to get his hooptie on the road not restore it to showroom. Not that it couldn't be nice with a ton of work, but no inclination toward that end is on exhibit here. Screw that Carter single barrel worn out trash. Stuff it in the attic and get on the road and on with life.
GD
Yeah, I would like to have a reliable driver. I'll replace glass and window seals and such. Going to mostly be a in town car and fire service road explorer.
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I picked up a 82 Brat from a field in northern California and towed it to northern Washington. It was parked in 1996 with a full tank of gas so I'm pretty sure I will just go the fuel cell route. The original T81W transmission was stuck in 4th gear so I pulled one out of another Brat at the local Pick N Pull (lucky find!). I have it all put together (along with a working center/cyclops light) but I think my original Carter/Weber carb is to gummed up to function properly. Until I install the fuel cell I'm sucking fuel from a 5 gallon can (new fuel pump and fuel lines) and gas is getting to the carb and also returning to the can via the fuel return line but it wont fire. If I dump gas in the carb it will run as long as I'm dumping it in. Hmmm. I have the wrong intake for the Weber 32/36 and a rebuild kit is non existent for the original Carter/Weber. Any ideas?
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It's getting my hands on a refurbished T81W like trying to obtain unobtainium?
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I have a (mostly) rust free 1982 BRAT GL and a 2014 XV. The BRAT is in good shape after sitting in the northern California sun for 23 years with the transmission stuck in 4th gear. It's on my work bench and split open and I found the problem. Now I must decide if I want to repair or replace.
TYF carburetor main jet special tool.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Is there a solution to removing the main jet out of the TYF carburetor? I rebuilt the carburetor but without removing the main jet and after assembling and installing the unit the BRAT still will not run. My fear is that I still have crud in that passage.