mjb240z
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Posts posted by mjb240z
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I have a 2001 Legacy Outback and I feel like I am missing a step or something. Its been a super simple procedure and have read up on how to do this is a Subaru here in the search features and other sites, but I still cannot get the outer spline passenger side at the rotor to come off.
I have completed:
Removed spring pin at inner passenger CV joint.
Slid the shaft off of trans.
Removed 32mm bolt.
48 hours of penetrating oil in spines.
Dropped the control arm off at ball joint.
Pounded the living heck out of the outer shaft with 4lb sledge, but its not budging even one bit.
Link of pictured website showing step by step by somebody else.
There appears to be zero rust inside the spline area and everything looks like you could eat off the area its so clean.
Have I missed something because its not moving ... HELP ?!?!?!
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OK here is the list, but what I really want is to be able to read the flash code so I can figure out which one it is per below. Its an OBDII, but I cant quite find the "WHERE" to put the clip trick and read the flash code in the search feature for our Subaru. It can be done and I have done it on my Acura (see attachment). I dont really want to buy the scan tool or go to AutoZone since they are kinda far. Anyone?
Example:
Subaru Specific OBDII Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
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P0031 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor heater circuit low input
P0032 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor heater circuit high input _
P0037 Rear oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction
P0038 Rear oxygen sensor heater circuit high input
P0065 Air assist injector solenoid valve malfunction
P0066 Air assist injector solenoid valve circuit low input
P0067 Air assist injector solenoid valve circuit high input
P0101 Mass air flow sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)
P0102 Mass air flow sensor circuit low input
P0103 Mass air flow sensor circuit high input
P0106 Pressure sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input)
P0107 Pressure sensor circuit low input
P0108 Pressure sensor circuit high input
P0111 Intake air temperature sensor circuit range/performance problem
P0112 Intake air temperature sensor circuit low input
P0113 Intake air temperature sensor circuit high input
P0117 Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit low input
P0118 Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit high input
P0121 Throttle position sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)
P0122 Throttle position sensor circuit low input
P0123 Throttle position sensor circuit high input
P0125 Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control
P0128 Thermostat malfunction
P0130 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor circuit range/performance problem (lean)
P0131 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input)
P0132 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)
P0133 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor circuit slow response
P0136 Rear oxygen sensor circuit malfunction
P0139 Rear oxygen sensor circuit slow response
P0171 Fuel trim malfunction (A/F too lean)
P0172 Fuel trim malfunction (A/F too rich)
P0181 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit range/performance problem
P0182 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit low input
P0183 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit high input
P0244 Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction (high input)
P0245 Wastegate control solenoid valve circuit low input
P0246 Wastegate control solenoid valve circuit high input
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected
P0327 Knock sensor circuit low input
P0328 Knock sensor circuit high input
P0335 Crankshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft position sensor circuit range/performance problem
P0340 Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
P0341 Camshaft position sensor circuit range/performance problem
P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold
P0442 Evaporative emission control system malfunction
P0444 Evaporative emission control system purge control valve circuit low input
P0445 Evaporative emission control system purge control valve circuit high input
P0447 Evaporative emission control system vent control low input
P0448 Evaporative emission control system vent control high input
P0451 Evaporative emission control system pressure sensor range/performance problem
P0452 Evaporative emission control system pressure sensor low input
P0453 Evaporative emission control system pressure sensor high input
P0456 Evaporative emission control system malfunction
P0457 Evaporative emission control system leak detected (fuel cap loose/off)
P0461 Fuel level sensor circuit range/performance problem
P0462 Fuel level sensor circuit low input
P0463 Fuel level sensor circuit high input
P0464 Fuel level sensor intermittent input
P0480 Cooling fan relay 1 circuit low input
P0483 Cooling fan function problem
P0500 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction
P0506 Idle control system RPM lower than expected
P0507 Idle control system RPM higher than expected
P0508 Idle control system circuit low input
P0509 Idle control system circuit high input
P0512 Starter switch circuit high input
P0545 Exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit low input
P0546 Exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit high input
P0604 Internal control module memory check sum error
P0703 Brake switch input malfunction
P0705 Transmission range sensor circuit malfunction
P0710 Transmission fluid temperature sensor circuit malfunction
P0715 Torque converter turbine speed sensor circuit malfunction
P0720 Output speed sensor (vehicle speed sensor 2) circuit malfunction
P0725 Engine speed input circuit malfunction
P0731 Gear 1 incorrect ratio
P0732 Gear 2 incorrect ratio
P0733 Gear 3 incorrect ratio
P0734 Gear 4 incorrect ratio
P0741 Torque converter clutch system malfunction
P0743 Torque converter clutch system (Lock-up duty solenoid) electrical
P0748 Pressure control solenoid (Line pressure duty solenoid) electrical
P0753 Shift solenoid A (Shift solenoid 1) electrical
P0758 Shift solenoid B (Shift solenoid 2) electrical
P0778 2-4 brake pressure control solenoid valve (2-4 brake duty solenoid) circuit malfunction
P0785 2-4 brake timing control solenoid valve (2-4 brake timing solenoid) circuit malfunction
P1086 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) position sensor circuit low input
P1087 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) position sensor circuit high input
P1088 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) position sensor circuit low input
P1089 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) position sensor circuit high input
P1090 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) malfunction (stuck open)
P1091 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) malfunction (stuck close)
P1092 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) malfunction (stuck open)
P1093 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) malfunction (stuck close)
P1094 Tumble generator valve circuit #1 (open circuit)
P1095 Tumble generator valve circuit #1 (over current)
P1096 Tumble generator valve circuit #2 (open circuit)
P1097 Tumble generator valve circuit #2 (over current)
P1110 Atmospheric pressure sensor low input
P1111 Atmospheric pressure sensor high input
P1112 Atmospheric pressure sensor range/performance problem
P1130 Front oxygen sensor circuit malfunction (open circuit)
P1131 Front oxygen sensor circuit malfunction (short circuit)
P1134 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor microcomputer problem
P1137 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor circuit range/performance problem
P1139 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor #1 heater circuit performance/range problem
P1141 Mass air flow sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input)
P1142 Throttle position sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input)
P1146 Pressure sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)
P1230 Fuel pump control unit malfunction
P1244 Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction (low input)
P1245 Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction (fail-safe)
P1301 Fire due to increased exhaust temperature
P1312 Exhaust temperature sensor malfunction
P1400 Fuel tank pressure control solenoid valve circuit low input
P1420 Fuel tank pressure control solenoid valve circuit high input
P1443 Evaporative emission control system vent control function problem
P1480 Cooling fan relay 1 circuit high input
P1507 Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe)
P1510 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 1 circuit low input
P1511 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 1 circuit high input
P1512 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 2 circuit low input
P1513 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 2 circuit high input
P1514 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 3 circuit low input
P1515 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 3 circuit high input
P1516 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 4 circuit low input
P1517 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 4 circuit high input
P1518 Starter switch circuit low input
P1540 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction 2
P1544 High exhaust temperature detected
P1560 Back-up voltage circuit malfunction
P1590 Neutral position switch circuit high input
P1591 Neutral position switch circuit low input
P1592 Neutral position switch circuit (MT model)
P1594 Automatic transmission diagnosis input signal circuit malfunction
P1595 Automatic transmission diagnosis input signal circuit low input
P1596 Automatic transmission diagnosis input signal circuit high input
P1698 Engine torque control cut signal circuit low input
P1699 Engine torque control cut signal circuit high input
P1700 Throttle position sensor circuit malfunction for automatic transmission
P1701 Cruise control set signal circuit malfunction for automatic transmission
P1703 Low clutch timing control solenoid valve circuit malfunction
P1711 Engine torque control signal 1 circuit malfunction
P1712 Engine torque control signal 2 circuit malfunction
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Any clues about the gear noise? Last time I heard noise like that (an old SAAB 99 and the noise was louder), it was prudent to get rid of the car.
Thanks again
Turgidson
Hard to say, does it make noise while idling & go away when you push in the clutch? If this is what happens then the good news is that its just the throwout bearing & you can replace it while replacing the clutch at the same time (recommended). 145k sounds about right when these can start to burn out. They are "cheap" but the labor isn't unless you can turn a wrench yourself.
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I dont have the exact same car, but I do have a 2001 & believe its the same trans you have. Here is what you SHOULD be looking at on the passenger side of the car right under the air box. Look for the dip stick. According to the Subaru manual this is where you put the gear oil in. What you "might" be looking at where a sensor is "could" be the back-up light switch. I hope you can use any of this. Good luck !!!
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"Opinions please.."
My .02,
I have owned five cars that I have taken over the 200k mark and only one of them needed a new/er transmission. It whined etc. PERSONALLY I would not buy a new/rebuilt trans, but I would call wrecking yards in your area to FIND you a trans for the newest year they can find, 99 perhaps or look for yourself in your local yards while yours is still working. Yards usually want only $100 + $50 core. If you cannot do to the work yourself, labor could cost up to $300-500 more. You would get a warranty from the yard that it works for X miles, months etc and you would most likely get ALLOT of life out of that trans and save roughly $1500 or so in the process. The car that needed a replacement trans worked out great for another 50k while I still owned that car. Another car for me was a 4spd to 5spd swap and it had 125k on the ODO and since then I have put another 35k and its still going strong. I am a cheap guy so for me saving $$$ would be a big deal.
Good luck to you either way you go. :-)
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Western Washington is lousy with them. I swear that every 10th car is a Subaru. There is a Subaru dealer within 2 miles of me and another 3 within 20 miles. When we were in Southern California and looked for a dealer, there were only 3 in the whole Los Angeles basin and the nearest to where we were was 40 miles away.
I used to live in So Cal last year and know EXACTLY what you are talking about. The Subaru dealer was like an after thought next to Mazda at the end of the auto mall. As it was, there was only two in the whole county so they had no competition.
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A Subaru in Texas? When we spent a week in Southern California I saw less than a 1/2 dozen Subarus and this spring in San Fransisco only saw 3. I bet there are fewer than than that where you are.
Hahaha, its true, there are SOOO few here it seems. I have yet to see but maybe 3 OBW's in a year. Its such a great car, I just love it.
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I live in Texas and cannot believe how many big bugs and debris get into the intake and clog up the filter. I have the little plastic deflector in front of the intake as well, but apparently its not working enough so I did this little $1.30 mod. Its made from rain gutter material from Home Depot. It might be restricting the air flow, but I cannot feel it so it must be OK. Its totally hidden behind the hood so I dont think its very "rice" like ...lol.
Here are the direct links to see images.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5818&size=big&sort=1&cat=500
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5819&size=big&sort=1&cat=500
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I have won a final bid on an 04 Impreza WRX but it has a salvage title & has been completely repaired. The car has ONLY 3600 miles on it (3.6k). I have called the TX DMV and verified it CAN be registered. My wife called Allstate and verified that the car CAN be covered after both TX state & Allstate inspections. I feel confident it will pass all. I have also run a Carfax on the car as well. The price is only $13900 for this car and I can NEVER afford a new one like this as they are 25k new. Here are my questions, WHY would you NOT buy this vehicle after knowing this info? What should I be thinking about, but might not be? Am I concerned for no reason perhaps? I could use as many opinions as possible please as tomorrow I will either close the deal or pull out. Thanks in advance :-)
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I have a 2001 Legacy Outback w/65k, & we were going to use our $200 Subaru Bucks towards the dealer to replace the timing belt, but the dealer told my wife not to worry about it till 105k because they make them better than they used to. I have NEVER heard a dealer say this before. You always hear 60-90k max on a timing belt. Can anyone confirm this as accurate or was he just drinking on the job? :-)
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"Is the "240Z" part of your name a reference to a certain legendary Japanese sports car?"
Yes it is actually. I have a very nice 73 that is my never ending project car. I have practically rebuilt/refurbished from the ground up with many personal mods. Its a great toy to have as #3 in the fleet. :-)
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Thats an excellent point. I have been advised though not confirmed that certain warrantys are not transferrable to a second owner (which I am). Can anyone confirm this ?
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I thought I would give an update on my experience with Bars Leak thus far. It has been 2 months & it is working great. I have not seen any adverse effects. The engine is still running strong & there are no signs of a temperature increase either. I also live near a huge grade which must be climed almost daily & the needle holds steady. I am thinking this product is similiar to what Subaru is using to assist with the problem. I did not use any other product like Alumiseal because that stuff just looks like playing with fire. Small aluminum fragments that stick to everything. Thats a clog waiting to happen. I am hoping this Bars Leak will last a very long time. The Subaru product states to use theirs for every 30000 miles so I am hoping for the same. We will see.
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I don't like the grill, but I do like the basic style of the car. The interior & exterior designs reminds me of a retro/futuristic 54 vette.
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Oh its just down right nasty. It took me a while to figure out what it reminded me of. I figured it out ..... EDSEL !!!! We all know how that went down in flames.
http://www.tocmp.com/pix/Edsel/pages/ed58whtt-or_jpg.htm
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I have a 2001 & your story sounds SOOOO familiar. I could not find the leak, but could smell it. I could from time to time actually see a little on the ground & it would show up on the cross member as well. I only ACCIDENTALLY found the leak just before it sealed it self one morining. Do this, open the hood in the morning & fire up your car & stare at the rear side of the engine where the head & block meet on the driver side. I swear to you if the thing wont be leaking from there after a few minutes I would be surprised. It seems to seal itself once the engine is warm but will leak a little after long driving & then it sits parked. I personally could not tollerate it & the best solution is to replace the head gasket, but I am not able to afford that just yet. Now here comes the debate on what I have done to (temporarily) resolve mine & it has been working for several weeks now. I bought a product called "Bars Leaks". This has a brownish slightly chunky fluid that worked great. I poared only 1 bottle & it worked right away. I do NOT recommend using Alumiseal. Thats the stuff with small aluminum fragments in it. This stuff will make a mess inside your cars engine. Again this has worked for me & others will scream bloody murder, but I found the risk to be minimal. Good luck to you either way. :-)
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I have checked the search feature but I dont see anybody asking this question so I wonder if anybody has done this with sucess.
I have a 2001 Outback wagon with 65000 miles & have the cronic external left rear head gasket leak. It is kind of like a pin hole leak that goes away once the car is warm, but still annoying none the less.
I was wondering if anybody has tried that radiator leak headgasket leak that you pour into the radiator. Bars Leak I believe it is called. It "might" work since the leak is so small. Its not the ideal thing to do, but if it works for a long time & saves the big $$$ on having a new gasket installed (that will probably leak too) then it seams to be a viable option. Anyone ?
Axel Removal Issues
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Thanks for the reply.
I thought I would update for future searches.
I used a large puller which did not get it off either, however the combination of the puller pressure and a few whacks of the 4lb sledge and it came lose. It fought the entire way out. I kept squirting it with penetrating oil and kept using the puller and it eventually came out. It looked like the splines had rust on them and seized them up as suspected.
Thanks again.