BabyFace Fitz

Once I had the Motive brake bleeder, I put 32 oz of brake fluid thru the lines. Following the suby order, pass front, driver rear...etc. It still felt spongy. So I got the larger 1 gallon container from NAPA. I started at the pass front but then open all four lines. While pumping 10-15 psi with the Motive I pumped the brake pedals. After it was done brakes are not spongy. During the power run I released the pressure by taking the Motive top off to add more fluid. There was 1.5 ft drip tubes on each bleeder valve and they showed some bubbles from "sucking" in when I popped the top, but I still had a 1/3 of a gallon to finish. I would recommend closing the bleeder valves before releasing the pressure. thanks for the help with the bleeding. I'm going try the plug/unplug three times on the OBII reader to try to clear out my VDC/ABS code.

I've ordered the Motive brake bleeder kit. Got to get these brakes less spongy.

Yes, it is a VDC.

Yeah, I'll plan to do more bleeding. I gone thru about 20 oz of fluid so far so I might need to do it some more. I thinking of using a bug sprayer pump or get the motive one on amazon. My ABS code looks like 71, 74 and 49. Those numbers are not listed on the ABS codes I have found. thanks

2001 OBW H6 replaced one brake caliper and might have got air in ABS. Brakes are spongy after trying to bleed. Radio light dims when I put on the brake. Yesterday the radio light would dim right away but today after more bleeding attempts it dims five seconds after holding pressure on the pedal. I put on some new rotors/pad all around and found I had a driver side front caliper bad. I pulled the caliper off and went to the store and took about an hr to get the new one on. I was concerned about getting air in the line so I put on some blue tape on the line. It was not sealed up well. Once the brake job was done I did the normal bleeding sequence but then read about the subaru order, pass front, driver rear...that order was done too. I still have spongy brakes. I tried some hard breaking to get the ABS to cycle but I don't think 40mph on drive pavement did it. I plan to find a muddy road to see if the ABS pulsing kicks in and maybe cycles out the suspected air. My mechanic buddy from the suby stealership suggested we crack the supply lines on the ABS. We did that on all six lines with a pumping bleeding procedure. I saw you can connect #3 and #6 on the ABS connector but the connector under my dash does not have the same number of pins. My connector, is white with only four pins. It's bundled with the two bare lead wires. I tried connecting a various combination to get the ABS to cycle. I have another issue with my ABS. The ABS and VDC light in on the dash for the last year. Months ago I connected the right leads on the connector to get the ABS code. But I have not figured out how to read the code. Below is my attempt to describe the code message. But when working on the brakes I noticed the rear pass side would have a spark sound when the brakes were pushed. I wonder if this is a bad speed sensor. Sorry for the long mystery bleeding game. Here's the flash pattern. I am unsure if a count every flash. The pattern repeats, and is made of long flashes (I) and short ones (i) and spaces.. Here's my break down. Long one, short one, space, , 7 long, 1short, space, 7long, 4 short, space, four long, 9 short then quickly repeat. If I count all of them I get 34, Front left outlet valve?

Thanks Texan, in the next couple of weeks I will be checking this out. I will check voltage and see if I can identify the manafacture of the alt.

Yes, the alternator looks like it has been replaced. I've owned the car for around four years and can't remember if I did it, but if I did it was years ago. I usually get NAPA parts. Should I check the voltage after disconnection the wires? Is the ABS disabled currently?

Oops, It's a 2001 OBW with the H6. Around 136K.

The car seems to run fine but I've got ABS and VDC lights on. I put in the connecting wire to get the codes, I would like help with "reading the code". Here's the flash pattern. I am unsure if a count every flash. The pattern repeats, and is made of long flashes (I) and short ones (i) and spaces.. Here's my break down. Long one, short one, space, , 7 long, 1short, space, 7long, 4 short, space, four long, 9 short then quickly repeat. If I count all of them I get 34, Front left outlet valve? Here's a link to the codes. thanks in advance.

Found the wires, it took a couple of tries. The green unplugged helped me find the bundle. From the factory those wires are bound tight to the wire group. I'd want help confirming the count. I am unsure if a count every flash. The pattern repeats, and is made of long flashes (I) and short ones (i) and spaces.. Here's my break down. Long one, short one, space, , 7 long, 1short, space, 7long, 4 short, space, four long, 9 short then quickly repeat. If I count all of them I get 34, Front left outlet valve?

Thanks guys, it will be a couple of days before I can go dash swimming.

thanks Mike, it's a 2001 OBW H6.

Well the bulbs work, but the ABS and VDC light is still on. Cut just a bit of the plastic out of the way and with a couple of soldering attempts, and eventually got electrical continuity. How do I get the ABS/VDC lights off. Is that a sign I have another issue?

The cruise works. The bulb socket had a little road salt but looked good. I cleaned and bent the socket, still running light goes out with brake pushed on, and then comes back. I switched wires from driver/passenger and it still has the issue. I checked the wires and they look good. With my multimeter and narrowed it down to the spot where the wire should contact the socket, the wire is not connected fully to the socket. I considered trying to solder the wire to the socket. I think I'll go to junk yard and get another set. thanks Nipper and FerGloyale.

Thank you Nipper, I'll check to see what mood my cruise control is in tmr. I'll see if my friend that works at a stealership has a more detailed reader, and I plan to replace the bulb socket.

I've done some searching but kind find the trick. My dash is ABS and VDC light on, no codes. I found on the 1157 double filament bulb was toast and the 10 amp fuse for the TAIL-ClEARANCE blown. Replaced fuse and bulb. The driver side bulb will illuminate the driving light but when the brake pedal is pressed, that one filament goes out. The passenger 1157 bulb works fine. Fuse stays good. I switched out bulbs and it's the socket. thanks in advance.