Phermenter
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Posts posted by Phermenter
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Well, sorry for the title. We bought the 2001 LL Bean OBW for our 17 yr old. It needed a head gasket job, so I did that. Plus, it needed other work, like control arm bushings, a front hub, fluids, etc. After doing all this, and after driving it for maybe 6 weeks, the boy rear-ends a Murano. Everyone was fine, except the Subie and the exhaust on the Murano.
So. Most of the damage is, of course to the core support for, and the radiator and AC radiator, the front bumper and the lights. Those kind of things. I also noticed the top cover for the air box for the air cleaner was askew. I assumed this was due to the intake being smashed rearwards. While removing the radiators, I also noticed that the covers for the front part of the exhaust were damaged. Then, I checked the dogbone, and it's busted, too.
The engine seems to be shoved back about an inch or so. Now, here's my question - What are the un-obvious things I need to check, to make sure to fix. I'll look at the cross members, motor mounts, the stuff around the tranny, like the linkages and cooling tubes, etc. What I don't know, and I'm asking for input on, is there something else that might be a gotcha if I don't correct it.
I'd rather not right it off as wrecked beyond repair. I'm retired, and I can do most of the work. I can get some, if not most, of the parts from my local wrecking yards.Thanks in advance,
Mike
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YAY! She started right up! Crankity-crankity, then running with a clickity-clackity and then the boy turned her off. In a panic, he asked, "What's that?" I told him it's just the upper end, and the engine needed to pump oil up there. So we started her, with the EXACT same results, from the engine and from the boy! I told him to start her up, and stop turning her off! He did, and 3 seconds later, she's purring. With a HUGE fuel leak! Seems, I buggered up an o-ring on the #2 injector.... Off to get o-rings tomorrow...
But this validates the link counting!
Thanks all for your input.
Mike
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Here at the link counts. And my caveat, I haven't started the engine yet. When that happens, I'll know if I've installed the chains correctly. Remember. I found the gold and dark links, so I really believe this to be correct. But we'll see!
All shafts are up, in the 12 O'clock position. On the left bank, starting at the crankshaft gear mark going clockwise, the intake mark is the 28th link. Then, from the intake mark, the exhaust mark is on the 12th link. The chain is tight across the water pump and the lower idler gear, and the dark link is on the lower right side as one is looking at the gear. Then back to the crankshaft gear. I didn't have the upper idler or the tensioner installed yet, so all the slack is between the crank gear and the intake gear.
On the right bank, from the intake mark and going counter-clockwise, the exhaust mark is on the 15th link. Then from the exhaust mark, the dark links align on the lower idler at the 28th link. Most of the slack was between the exhaust gear and the lower idler. The guide on the top fit with almost no slack.
So that's what I found. We'll see.
Thanks all for your input!
Mike
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14 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
uh - wanna share the numbers you found?
Yes. Sorry. I'll reply to the whole thread..
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15 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Those H6 marks are dim, I think they are to give us a hint of what it’s like to be colorblind. Lol
I’d guess someone has counted teeth like LT said, people love that stuff. The H6 can seem like a monstrosity but in the end it’s simple.
Ensure cam and crank marks are lined up, verify marks, rotate engine carefully by hand and make sure they’re still lined up. Check check and recheck and recheck again until you’re comfortable, ask if it doesn’t look right or post pics of your marks. Done.
i get it - it’s a double check and aid. but they seem to confuse and increase anxiety when they’re not needed anyway.
I’ve never counted teeth...probably once for kicks, or worried about timing belt/chain marks. Work off of what the engine sees: the cam and crank marks, it’s the most mechanically reliable method and fewer cooks in the kitchen. Alignment marks/counts only help ensure that anyway. It’s not like teeth counts or chain marks will be right and cam and crank marks wrong.
Yup! I did all that. Especially the check, and check again, and again...
It's all together, and before I put the front chain cover on, I turned the engine over several time and didn't feel anything mechanically bind, or feel like something was hitting something else, like a valve and a piston...
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On 10/18/2019 at 10:57 PM, 1 Lucky Texan said:
tooth counts for timing belts can be found on-line....have you searched for tooth or link counts or w'ever for the EZ 6 cylinder engines?
Yes. All I found was a good image to count them myself.
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Hello all,
So I'm rebuilding our 2001 H6, and I'm re-installing the, used, timing chains. I found the dark links, and the gold links, and I have them all lined up. I believe they are correct. And then I had this thought that this would have been so much easier if instead of colored links, that we just knew the number of links between marks.
For example, on the left bank, say that from the intake cam timing mark there are 13 links, and that 13th link is the link on the exhaust cam timing mark. Then, the chain is tight across the water pump, and the idler, and there are X number of links from the exhaust cam mark to the mark on the crank shaft, and then X number of links back to the intake cam mark. Same kind of thing on the right bank, the a number of links between the intake and exhaust, indicated by the two gold links, and then so many links from the exhaust mark around the lower idler, and up to the crankshaft.
Thoughts? If I can, I'll see if I can get a look at new chains and count them.
Mike
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14 minutes ago, Mitchy said:
Yep, and they are thin bolts too. But no extreme pressures or forces inside the valve covers.
Remember that cars used to have cork gaskets here and they would split if forced too much. My old mini would gush oil if anything over firm finger-tight was used.
When I worked on VW bugs, people would over tighten on the cork gaskets, then wonder why they leaked. I'm following the manual here, but I think in a few hundred miles after shes running, I'll check a few bolts..
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7 hours ago, el_freddo said:
I’d be using new gaskets an sealing washers. 5ftlb is just keep the bolt in, on the EJs, it seems the thread is all taken up and the bolt bottoms out on the cam retainer plate. Any tighter and you risk stripping the bolt or the thread the bolt fits in to.
Cheers
Bennie
Thanks, and yes, new gaskets almost everywhere.
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Hi there,
As I'm going through the efforts to reassemble the H6 in our 2001 Outback, the manual says to torque the cover to a whopping 6.3 N-m, or 4.6 ft-lb. Which was just barely enough to make the 55.2 in-lb click on my torque wrench. That's just a tad tighter than hand tight, it seems. OK, so I'm new to Subaru, and I've dealt with 'hand tight, plus a 1/4 turn', in the past.
Will they really not leak? The instructions didn't call for locktite. They didn't specify dry or lubed bolts - so I just cleaned them well... And installed them.
Is it me? Is this just a feature I'll have to get used to? Are the gaskets really that good??? Or are leaks in my future....?
Mike
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2 hours ago, el_freddo said:
I wash down with petrol or whatever I have on hand. Then use metho to wipe all mating surfaces before applying silicone sealant (where needed) or fitting the rubber seals or the gasket needed.
As for head bolt thread tap, I used GD’s suggestion of cutting a slice in a used headbolt (recommended to use new bolts if you don’t know their history or they’ve been used more than once - from what I’ve been told - and I’ve done this on my current HG job) and using the headbolt to clean up the threads.
The rest of the engine cleaning, it comes down to how fastidious you want to be about it.
Cheers
Bennie
Thanks. I'm not familiar with metho, but I can GTS, and find out about it! OK, denatured alcohol. Correct?
Mike
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Hi there,
I'm getting ready to assemble the engine in the soob after taking it apart to replace a bad head gasket. Is it a thing on Subarus to run a tap down bolt holes, and the bolts through a die to clean them up? And, I was taught to wash parts with a solvent first, then wash/rinse with a water based degreaser. What do you do? Of course I'll coat all the parts with oil as I reassemble. And I understand it's really important to keep the mating surfaces on the chain cover really clean to get a good seal. Is it really clean, like wiped down with alcohol clean? Or degreaser, like brakleen, clean?
Mike
2001 Outback, LL Bean H6
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21 hours ago, FerGloyale said:
Find a socket that fits tight inside the dowel.
Then you can grab it tight with vice grips and wiggle it out.
I tried that, didn't work so well. I ended up using a 12mm tap, and a bolt. I used a small lead weight and made a small slide hammer. They came out fairly easily.
Mike
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On 10/5/2019 at 5:19 AM, montana tom said:
Use a torch , just heat the pin. Beware melting the aluminum.
Thanks. I was headed in that direction, but it would have been a last resort option for me. I ended up using a 12mm tap, and a bolt. I used a small lead weight and made a small slide hammer. They came out fairly easily.
Mike
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Hello all,
I'm having difficulty removing the pins. I've tried grabbing them with vise grips, and wiggling, and only managed to tear pieces off the pin. I've tried taping them, screwing in a bolt, and wiggling, and split the pin. I used a tap that was just slightly larger than the bolt hole, but didn't tap it in even as far as top the block. I'm thinking I'll go buy a more precise tap, smaller than the hole, larger than the pin, and try again.
They have been sprayed with PB Blaster. Any other tricks I can try on the other two? And tips on how to remove the broken pins? If it were a cast iron block, I'd heat them up and pull them out. But I don't think I want to do that with aluminum.
Mike
2001 Outback LL Bean H6 3.0
ps - I'd swear someone in the past used a sealant, as I've never had this much of an issue removing a freakin' pin...
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2 hours ago, FerGloyale said:
yup. pry out, push in.
Thanking you!!
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Hello all,
Simple question, how does one go about removing the front seal on an automatic tranny in a 2001 Outback? Does it just pull/pry out, cause it looks like it does?
Note: I tried to search, but found about every thing else Outback, but not how to remove that seal..
TIA,
Mike
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I got this car with a blown head gasket. And I've already found helpful peeps here! Thanks!
Mike
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Our Subie got a boo boo. As in, crashed. :(
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Thanks all. After further inspection, the front crumple zone has several crumples. There's a busted motor mount, the tranny was shoved back quite a bit, into the sheet metal. It's all messed up. I am, kinda, looking for a replacement body with a blown motor. And I'll go that way if after I pull the engine and all's OK there.
Thanks again,
Mike