rpl3000

It came out like a hot knife through butter.

That was suprisingly easy to do. My impreza doesnt have front camber adjustment so after loosening the 14mm pinch bolt and failing to pop the ball joint (I didn't try too hard), I removed the upper mount bolt on the strut assembly and pivoted the whole thing out of the way. I soaked the bolts for a day and everything came out like butter. Can anyone help me with torque specs for the axle bolt?

Thanks for the reply, That clears up a few things regarding the pin. about the A-arm method...... Will the whole arm are come out? or will I remove the bolt to the engine crossmember and be able to pivot it on the other mount (its more of a shaft in housing type connection, no bolt) If the whole are does come out then is there anything that I need to do to the pivot? like replace bushings, obviously I'll grease it. Thanks. I'll see if I can't take some pics and maybe someone more senior here can put it in the ad-hoc manual.

I'm removing the right-front axle on my 96 impreza brighton tomorrow and I just wanted to check on a few things. 1) How do I kow which direction to knock out the pin that holds the axle to the trans? One side appears to be flush, the other isn't. 2) Should I removed the pinch bolts above the steering knuckle or remove the A-arm from the engine crossmember and the sway bar? These are the two most common methods of removal right? Would I have to compress or hold the spring? Do I have to loosen up any or the strut assembly? 3) Also, is it a 3/16 in. drift to punch out the axle pin? 4) order goes something like, 1) pin, 2) steering knuckle or a-arm, 3) remove axle from tranny, 4) get a big hammer and knock out the axle from the hub, 5) pray the bearings stay put, 6) stuff in new axle Any other tips are appreciated. I've got the car on stands and I've been soaking the bolts and pin for a day now. Thanks.

I've been a browser for awhile but never posted. I recently had the oil separator plate replaced on my 96 brighton, (EJ18, 5-spd trans, 48k). This was done under warranty by the mechanic who I bought the car from. He also replaced my clutch plate because he said that it looked worn. My guess is that it was really covered in oil. Since the work I've had a touch of trouble getting the car into 1st gear when its cold (like stopped at a light) and the clutch engages closer to the floor that before. I often have to let the car roll forward or back before it goes into gear. Also at idle I hear (and feel) a vibration that wasnt there before. The vibration is the clutch cable under the hood wiggling back and forth right where it connects to the transmission. It seems like this is caused by lack of tension which is why I ask about proper adjustment. What is the proper adjustment and engagement for the clutch? It looks simple enough for me to adjust it if need be. Thanks.