Phil Hyde
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Posts posted by Phil Hyde
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15 hours ago, DaveT said:
Is there a particular type of silicone hose to look for - I was looking for some a while back, and was having a hard time finding any that stated that it could handle stuff that can be found in vacuum lines - oil vapor, fuel vapor, etc... Or am I just being too picky? I know, fuel isn't typically in there.
On other cars I have replaced conventional rubber vacuum hoses with silicon - the main reason being high heat (around a turbo). That was small I/D stuff, however.
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While inspecting the PCV valve on my 1991 Loyale, I cracked the (brittle) hose that connects. Part number seems to be 807415162.
Any suggestions for a replacement, or substitute?
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7 minutes ago, DaveT said:
Definitely check the wire and connectors. I've seen wire break inside it's insulation inside the harness.
Does that harness go all the way inside the passenger compartment?
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On 8/20/2021 at 12:30 PM, Dee2 said:
PS: Did you ever check for any codes ?
Been working on other projects and finally got to focus some time on the Loyale.
I'm getting code 23 flashing. So would I suspect either 2 bad MAF sensors, or perhaps faulty wiring?
So
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Thanks! Very helpful.
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Hi everyone,
Trying to check my vehicle for stored CEL codes. From my recent troubleshooting, the CEL has been illuminated when the car isn't starting properly.
Based on my understanding, the wires are in the engine bay, and I need to connect the white connector to read codes. The green connector is a "test" connector. Right so far?
When I connect this white connector and turn the key on, all I get is a flashing CEL light. Does that mean there are no stored codes?
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1 hour ago, Dee2 said:
Hopefully you have a 30 day return option.
You can leave it unplugged for now and chase down whatever. You may find other problems. These are old cars.
PS: Did you ever check for any codes ?
It was $50 shipped so I think I'll hang onto it. Apparently a supply of extra parts is a good thing with these cars.
I've been a little pressed for time this week, but I plan on checking the codes this weekend.
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1 minute ago, Dee2 said:
Seems like you've diagnosed the problem. You can run the engine with the MAF unplugged. That apparently eliminates the other variables.
Was that a remanufactured one or a salvage? OEM or aftermarket?
I've been down that path on my truck where I had to replace a bad MAF, got a remanufactured one only to find it was also bad. Long story short, I had to get a third one which finally solved my problem.
Well... This one is a used OEM from eBay. Sold as "functional". So I am not sure I proved anything. Either I have two bad ones... or it's not the problem. Leaning toward the latter.
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1 minute ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Go back and re-read my post and follow the instructions. Troubleshooting with Visa will not produce the desired outcome.
GD
I am aware of the troubleshooting that needs to occur and I do appreciate the suggestions. I had already purchased a (used) MAF and there was certainly no harm in checking to see if it fixed anything. I honestly didn't expect it to.
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UPDATE: Replacement MAF did not produce a different result.
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11 minutes ago, Dee2 said:
Earlier you said that unplugging the MAF kept the engine running . Have you replaced the MAF ?
I have one on order.
The funny thing about the unplugged MAF behavior is that you'd think running in this manner would rule out a fuel pressure issue.
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3 minutes ago, Ionstorm66 said:
That sounds like fuel pressure. The pump primes up, but then cant keep the pressure up when its running. Will it start back up if you shut the key off and try again?
The car will run with almost any vacuum leak, just poorly. I've had the brake booster unplugged and it still started.
Yes, it restarts every time.
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20 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:
How long does it idle at 2K? It should fast idle until the coolant temp gauge starts moving. Even on a 100F day mine still fast idles on a cold start for a minute or so.
Does it hunt for the idle before it dies? AKA rpms surge.
It starts, goes up to around 2K, then dies - all in a matter of seconds. No hunting. you have to feather the throttle to keep it running.
I will check the grounds - thanks for that.
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21 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Have you checked for a vacuum leak? The most common cause of an incorrect idle on a MAF car is a vacuum leak - air gets in through an alternate path, doesn't register on the MAF, and thus fuel is not calculated for the actual amount of air - causing a lean condition that is unable to sustain idle.
It is next on my list. Given the combination of behaviors, I was going for big fish / low hanging fruit first.
Thanks for the suggestions.
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7 minutes ago, DaveT said:
The CTS testing ok only at cold temp doesn't mean it is good.
I see your point, but does it mean it would cause a car not to idle cold? I'm just trying to establish a baseline.
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UPDATE: After removing the TPS, I was able to confirm that it reads "closed" (A-B continuity) in the throttle closed position. A-B stop contacting at some small angle of rotation, which I assume needs to be adjusted to correspond to the feeler gauge specifications.
I re-installed the sensor and rotated so that A-B have continuity when the throttle is in the closed position.
Starting the engine produces the same result as before. Idles up somewhere around 2K then dies. Feathering the throttle will keep it running.
At this point I feel pretty confident that the engine should at least idle. CTS reading checks out for cold start. TPS is reading closed which should be good for idle.
Am I missing something?
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To circle back to my first question - I was able to get the sensor off by removing the A/C compressor (which is kind of a bear of a task).
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14 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Why are you replacing it? These usually don't fail till well past 300k miles. You seem to be replacing parts at a tremendous rate here and I suspect you are either troublshooting with Visa and are just loading up the parts cannon, or somehow think that replacing the factory parts with aftermarket sh!t will magically make it run better or be more reliable - which it most definitely won't.
So what they he!l are you doing here friend?
GDHello Friend -
You may want to read my troubleshooting saga in my other thread (mentioned below).
I am checking/replacing it because it is failing the tests which are recommended in the factory service manual. Do you suggest otherwise?
I don't know you came to the conclusion you did, but it is most certainly not my desire or intention to replace factory with aftermarket - unless there is no other option. So far as I can tell, there is not another option other than waiting indefinitely.
I hope this clears up your questions.
Phil
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Related question, is this a suitable replacement TPS? It's quite literally all I can find.
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34 minutes ago, somick said:
As far as I remember you are correct. Either the throttle body needs to be removed or the AC compressor. But if you unplug the connector you can test in place. There is a testing procedure in the FSM
Good luck,
Sam
I did do the test procedure. My sensor is failing the first test, which is continuity between A-B when closed or part throttle. I was not able to adjust the sensor CCW, so I am going with the theory that the sensor is faulty.
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4 minutes ago, Ionstorm66 said:
If you remove the TPS and rotate it gently by hand, will it read correctly? You can pop off the cover to the TPS and check the contacts, but be careful they are fragile from old age.
I can't figure out how to completely remove the TPS. I made another post in this forum about it.
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OK experts, what is the secret to removing and replacing the TPS on an EA82 SPFI engine? As far as I can tell, either the throttle body must come loose, or the AC compressor has to come out.
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A friend helped me source the factory service manual which has been a great source of information.
Getting back to my original question for a minute - I performed the tests below and mine fails step 1. meaning, it is not sending a closed signal to the computer. Visual inspection suggests that the TPS is at its maximum CCW rotation, so I cannot adjust it.
Thoughts?
1991 Loyale idle/acceleration issue
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by Phil Hyde
I decided to re-verify my MAF harness voltages. It's getting 12V on the red wire, but the white is reading 5.3 mV (key on/eng off). Specs I've read are 100-500 mV. I am thinking this is not bueno.
Where is the other end of that white wire?