rcoaster
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Posts posted by rcoaster
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Or for a little extra money, and without playing Russian Roulette wether you will get HG issues or not (my previous car, a 96 Outback with the 2.5 didn't have any HG issues at 136,000 miles before I traded it in for a newer one), do what I did- I went for a H6.
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My 05 legacy 2.5I wagon is due for a fuel filter and things at subaru have definetly changed. The filter I got from the dealer is basicly a 2" round mesh plastic disk that suposedly fits to a riser in the fuel tank. Has anyone changed this filter and can tell me how it is done? The filter does not look like much and I wonder how good of a filtering job it will do. Maybe I can install an inline element filter to keep the fine stuff out. Any help would be appreciated.
I don't think that's really a fuel filter. More of a tank sediment filter to prevent the pump from picking up large particulates. I think with the 2005 and onward, they use a filter cartridge that goes onto the pump body. If you can't find an inline canister in the engine bay, usually mounted on the strut tower near the brake master cylinder, then they might have moved it somewhere else.
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When they first came out, the local dealer did a lot of promotions on the car - test drive and get a 25 gift card and enter a drawing to win one. I test drove one, and didn't like it.
The engine was underpowered, would rather go for the 5 seater instead of the 7 seater, and thought the dash layout was poorly designed. When I put my hands on the steering wheel, they are at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions, and my thumbs were actually blocking my line of sight to the fuel and temp gauges. They were placed too low. Aside from the poor dash design, the inside was very nicely laid out and that was the only good thing about the Tribeca. I see far more Outbacks and Forresters around here. I saw a few Tribecas when they first came out, but then they kind of went in hiding. At the dealer where I take my car for servicing there are only 2 Tribecas on the lot, and about 12 Outbacks and 12 Forresters on the lot. It seems that the Outback and Forrester are the top sellers at the dealer. I hope with the re-design, the Tribeca will sell better. I'm hoping for a Subaru with a higher towing capacity than the measley 3000 pound limit. The Tribeca would become a full SUV, while the Outback would hold the cross-over market.
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Check the IAC valve. It might be just dirty and can't meter the correct amount of air into the intake.
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Actually, they reccommend premium.
I've been getting away with regular gas, and the car runs fine. You will like the H6- more power, and a very refined engine.
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Either your mechanic is wrong, or the other shop removed more stuff than necessary to replace the rotor. I've replaced the front rotor on my former 96 outback (before I traded up to a 2004) and the rotor replacement is super easy. It was just loosening the two big rusted bolts that holds the caliper to the spindle assembly was the hardest part. The rotor is simply held in by your tire! The rotor is actually a separate peice from the hub itself. I've heard some common problems is that the rotor gets somewhat stuck on the hub due to rust. A few taps with a rubber mallet is all it takes to break it free.
For my car, it was just a firm tap with the palm of my hand and the rotor freed itself from the hub and the rotor slid right off. The abs teeth are on the hub itself. No axle nut to remove.
I would suggest that you buy a Haynes manual for your car. You will be suprised at how some stuff are easy to replace on your Subaru. If you still want to have a mechanic do it for you, at least you are armed with information how to replace things and you will be able to tell if your mechanic is right, or trying to milk money from you.
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My son called me last night from several states away with a headlight problem.
96 subie legacy wagon.
Head lights out, brights only when holding the switch in the "flash" position. I am not really familiar with the car, its several states away and doesn't visit often.
he said the fuses all look good.
Switch?
Is it a switch that you turn with your left hand (assuming US vehicles) or right, as opposed to something on the dash?
How do you go about getting one off/out?
my experience with these cars is only with the engine going into my vanagon.
any suggestions that I can pass along?
cheers
peter
Replace the bulbs first. It might be something as simple as that.
If that doesn't work, the next step would be to check the relays. They're located on the fuse block in the engine bay next to the battery.
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This is the first time I will be doing a brake pad chage on my 1996 Subaru legacy lsi. Does anyone know what the best pads to put on it?? And what the best place to buy them online.
I would recommend getting ceramic pads. Napa's Ceramix pads are excellent. I have them on my 2004 Outback and they work great!
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What about the engine temp sensor? I've heard that this sensor could cause difficulty starting.
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Cable controlled? Its an electronic panel, not the dial type. Or am I thinking something different?
The fan does have different speeds, depending on the mode you set it at. it does seem to go at all speeds, it just doesnt move a lot of air.
To compare, I jumped in my buddies familiar tonight and turned on his heater, the difference, just in the amount of air that comes through is huge. Seems something isnt right in my car.
When you say electronic, do you mean a digital readout for temperature? If there is, check for a motor that operates a mixing door that allows air to bypass the heater core. See if it is functioning or not. Also, check to see if the venturi tube that allows air to pass over the sensor so that the door will compenstate. Try turning up the heat all the way up and see if the mixing door will activate. Also, when you turn up the blower does the blower spin up and down? If it does, you may have a blockage somewhere that is preventing the flow of air. If the blower doesn't spin up and down, then there might be something wrong with the resistor pack or the electronic control unit that activates the blower.
Worse case scenario could be that the control unit could be faulty and may need replacing.
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Congrats. You are no longer a Subaru Virgin. Now, don't feel so violated!
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You can run regular gas on a H6. Subaru "recommends" premium, but I've been running regular and the only thing I noticed was a hestitation when the engine is cold and a very small power loss, but it runs fine. With a turbo, you must use premium. The engine is more smoother and refined.
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Just wanted to point out that I used to have a 1996 Outback with the 2.5L, and at 136K it didn't have any headgasket issues at all! I think the majority of the complaints come from 97-99 where the engine was tweaked a bit compared to the 1996. I really haven't heard from anyone who has a 1996 2.5 complain about headgasket issues.
-RC!
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Consider also that your fuel mileage may drop a little and you'll need to use premium fuel or octane booster.
Given the gas prices going up... every little bit adds to the operating costs...
That's why I got a H6. While premium fuel is recommended, I can run it on regular gas to save money. I've heard of others running thier H6 on regular gas with no problems.
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My wife and I have a 2000 Outback Wagon.
140K miles, all seems well, slight oil leak that requires 1quart of oil every 3,000 miles or so, maybe 2,000.
can I put a turbo, or supercharger on this, if I happen to find one?
what problems will / would I have to get past?
thanks
Bryan
I wouldn't recommend it. With a car with high mileage and an oil leak, I would recommend against it. Also, as everyone said, there's a lot of work involved in doing the upgrade. Upgrading to a turbo is fine on a low mileage car but you are upgrading an engine that isn't designed for it.
I would recommend looking for a used 05 Outback XT and trading in your 00 for the 05 XT. The XT is turbocharged and the engine/tranny is already designed to handle the extra power.
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Wait a minute.. If the heated seats don't work, it fails inspection? If the radio doesn't work, it fails inspection? If one of the vanity mirror light bulbs is burned out, it fails inspection? Now that's retarded...
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I just picked up a perfect, minus a few quirks, 02 Outback LL Bean Anyways it has around 90,000 miles on it and the Check engine light is on. It starts up fine but idles at 1200+ rpm no matter how warm the engine is and you can't get it to "kick down"
I you drive it it seems to run fine just lacks a little power, and usually when you drive it and park it the idle starts to fluctuate up and down really fast almost as if your sitting in the seat and reving it up, then letting off, then revving it up, then letting off and it does this until you either put it in drive again or shut it off.
What could be causeing this, possibly an idle air control vavle maybe? I dunno. Any help on this is certainly appreciated because I am very new to this 3.0 engine.
Thanks,
The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve may have some carbon deposits on it, causing the valve to close improperly, causing a high idle and fluctuations. Simply remove, clean, and reinstall and that should help.
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Since you removed the rear driveshaft, that's where you're wasting gas. The way the AWD works, it starts off with 50/50, then transistions to 90/10. So, without the rear driveshaft, you had about 10-50% power going to thin air.
Once you get the torque bind cleared up and the rear driveshaft back in, you get all the power coming off the tranny going to the wheels. One quick question, didn't you try the FWD fuse? You could do this without removing the rear driveshaft. The FWD fuse disengages the transfer clutch (while the engine is running only) and makes it a FWD drive car. People here who have complained about the torque bind use the FWD fuse as a back-up so they could still get around and eventually to a shop to have it resolved.
RC!
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The only downside is if your mirrors are painted the colour of the car's body. Then you'll have to change the body shell of the new mirror for the old one. It is a pain to do, but it is possible with patience. Good Luck!
Only if you have a 2nd generation Outback (2000-2004). They switched to swing-away mirrors in the 2nd generation, and used body color shells for the mirrors. In the 1st generation Outbacks (1995-1999), the mirrors are not swing-away, and all of them were black. Just look for an outback limited, since those came with the cold weather package.
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Yup- no more speedo cables.. I think Subaru did away with the speedo cable for two speed sensors- one on the front axle and one on the rear driveshaft. I beleive this is on the automatics. Since the AWD is electronic on the automatics, it uses two speed sensors to detect wheel slip, and feeds the info to the TCU and the ECU. It's also a data feed for the speedo and the cruise control. I think the speed sensors are wired into the ECU and then the ECU sends an signal to the speedo. That's why you have a CEL.
RC.
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It worked flawlessely before my gf left the pool with her hair wet, decided it was too cold (- 18), and had the brilliant idea of plugging her blowdryer to the converter I have in the trunk for emergencies. She said it simply stopped working.
There's something fishy about that story. I mean, how can you swim in a swimming pool in -18 degree C ? It would have been frozen over if it was outdoor, and if it was an indoor pool, couldn't your gf use the blowdryer at the location that had an 120VAC outlet?
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When I say "it shuts off", I mean it no longer keeps the speed I set it at and gas pedal is no longer depressed,
How can you tell if the gas pedal is depressed?
Juan
Yeah, I was wondering too because the 2005's are "fly by wire" systems. Your gas pedal doesn't have the throttle cable but a potentiometer attached to it which in turn, controls a servomotor on the throttle plate. You don't have the feedback with cable actuated systems. My 2004's crusie control is a fly by wire system, but still uses the actuator cables, so I do get the feedback.
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lol ya, thats all fixed up now, but i drive that car like 2 times a week max, would doing sets of donuts like 3 times total cause this?, they also have around 40k-50k on them. my accord and my parent's have it too but it just looks like a burn mark not wear.
Let's see... You're 16. Yup. That explains it. Have you driven your parent's car? If you did, that would explain it too. You should trade in your Outback and get a Civic instead. Nothing's wrong with the car, but there's something wrong between the driver's seat and the steering wheel.
Huh?
05 3.0 vdc slight miss, coolant smell (searched)
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Correction- Subaru has said that 92 Octane is recommended. The did not say it was required. When I first got my 04 H6, I used 92 Octane for a while, then when the gas prices skyrocketed, I switched to regular. The car ran so-so for a while then once the computer adapted to the lower octane rating, it ran fine. It only stumbles a bit if you floor the throttle quickly from idle. I figured out that if you start out gently, then give it gas quickly, the car will accelerate quickly without any hiccups.
One thing I've realized is that it's not the engine and gas you use, it's how the computer handles everything, and it's not as good as the AC Delco computers. The AC Delco ECU's have excellent response time.