mb86

I definitely expected something under $1k. Sounds like about $550 labor, the rest parts. I figured I would use the prices I found online as a baseline when I get estimates- if they want too much I'll talk about buying the parts myself. Also want to make sure I get an Exeedy replacement. It may be the same as the OEM Subaru, but I'm hoping it's better, and I definitely don't want anything less. I can't say why the clutches aren't lasting. My wife put most of the miles on the car until we got a new Volvo a year ago. I haven't noticed anything about how she drives (or how I drive) that would cause it. Maybe I slip the clutch extra because the Subaru doesn't go from stop as smoothly as most manuals. I have been unimpressed with the mileage from Subaru brake pads and the clutches.

Unfortunately, this is the second clutch in 120k miles. They want almost $1,300 to replace clutch and flywheel which seems like a lot to me. I'm trying to put minimal money into the car at this point. I should be able to get the clutch kit for under $300, so when I go out to get quotes from independents, I wanted to know whether I have to expect to pay for a flywheel. Sounds like it may not be absolutely necessary. What is the downside to leaving the old flywheel? Will it mate with a regular (not heavy duty) Exedy clutch?

Is it always necessary to replace the flywheel when the clutch is replaced? The local (Herndon, VA) dealer says they always replace the flywheel, don't resurface it. Is resurfacing even necessary? I have a '97 Legacy GT 2.5l. Thanks.

I'll check that out, thanks. It was not cooling before at idle, only when the revs were up, so that sounds like a possibility. (I couldn't check the high side pressure because the fitting that comes with the can doesn't fit on it.)

I didn't add refrigerant because the cheap pressure gauge that came with the can showed it as already too high, in the red. I guess I could hook the gauge up to the high side and get a reading.

1997 Legacy GT AC got progressively worse and then stopped altogether, would cool when engine was revved but not at idle, and now not at all. Got a can of refrigerant with a gauge on it, hooked it up to the low side, and to my surprise, showed pressure up in the red zone. I really thought it was low refrigerant, especially after seeing bubbling at the valve after I took the cap off. Any ideas on the likely cause of this? Sounds like some sort of blockage but I don't know where to look. Will probably take it to shop but would like to know what to expect so I don't get taken for a ride. Thanks in advance.

What brand was it? Thanks, -Mike