Spokane-Pete
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Posts posted by Spokane-Pete
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I think if the oil is dirty at 3000 miles or otherwise, its because its collected dirt. A big reason why its detergent oil to suspend it and let it clear out when its drained. You probably had a fair bit of grunge in the pan and so forth and with that oil it started cleaning it up. Consider it a bonus.
Ever use the engine flush stuff? You'd be amazed at what comes out of what you thought was a clean engine.
Does anyone know who produces the Wal-Mart oil? I know their filters are good. I don't use Fram, and after my crap from Jiffy Lube, I think I'll avoid Pennzoil. I've never had oil look so dirty after 3k, and my driving habits didn't change over the last 3k. Quaker State has pretty bottles, maybe I'll try them. Maybe Clamato Juice would work well.
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Fantastic. Good on you.
Reminds me of an MG Midget story a friend of mine owned. Bought it cheap at auction because of very low oil pressure and external oil leaks. Guess what it really was!? Mechanical oil pressure gauge sender line heading to the dash gauge. Line leaked causing apparent low reading on the gauge, and the oil leak of course was just the broken oil line leaking all over the engine. Replaced the line and voila, instant oil pressure!
Peter S
I've posted here recently about a '97 OBW I picked up for $1200. It has 140k on it and was not running well at all, the CEL was on all the time, sometimes flashing. The previous owner took it to an indie shop as well as a dealer. Both places diagnosed the problem as "blown cylinder." I checked around online, found you good people here, and also found references to bad plug wires causing similar problems. I pulled the plugs this morning--one of them had a seriously broken insulator and all of the wires had evidence of carbon tracking in the boot. The resistance was well within tolerance and the parts store nearby didn't have replacement wires, so I cleaned out the carbon and tossed them back on the car. After pulling the battery cables to zero the CEL, the results are:No more CEL
No more engine shaking around like a pissed off rodeo bull
For the price of a spark plug, I seem to have fixed the problem. I also discovered that the whistling sound I was hearing came from the air cleaner housing. The ace mechanics who replaced the air filter who knows when lost one of the two clips that holds the housing together. They just left it loose, so unfiltered air had a direct route into the engine. The whistling sound was just the sound of the intake.
How the hell can mechanics and dealers charge money for this crappy service? How the hell could a guy diagnose a problem as "blown cylinder" when the more immediate problem is a broken spark plug?
One thing does remain, though. There is a ticking sound that sounds like it's coming from deep within the engine. It could be coming from under the timing covers, but it absolutely is not from valves out of adjustment. The heads are quiet. I can't see any evidence of an exhaust leak, but need to spend some more time under the car to be sure. I've heard about a piston slap problem with these 2.5 liter DOHC engines. Anybody know how that manifests itself? Is it a terminal problem or just one of those wacky Subi things that everybody suffers through and tolerates because otherwise the cars are just freakin' awesome?
Cheers.
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Watts and South Central LA should be bulldozed over, After a nuclear bomb. thats about the only way it would improve.
TriBeCa = Triangle Below Canal. Area south of Canal street in Lower Manhattan. Site of old business and warehouse district that, starting in the late 1970s/early 80s, became a settlement area of choice for young professionals seeking to be close to the financial district. More here. Suffice to say; "what a difference a generation makes."So the name symbolizes renewal and gentrification out of decay. If the City of LA can manage similar regeneration in Watts or South Central who is to say what will happen a generation hence?
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I just had my Lexus ES300 windows tinted. I'd hate to do it myself. Hot work, hard on the back, pain to get right. I'm very glad I had it done and made a deal to get the glass sunroof done in limo black. If I want to see out I'll open it! Seriously keeps the heat out. I did the windows 33% which was plenty. The back looks darker only because of the combination of the 3 back windows adding to each other. Its much less glare and much cooler. Well worth the $165.
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The interior is really nice actually. The front is especially bad though. Back is a bit odd too. Paint was weird though I forget why. I think it was that some pieces solid black and others were very fine pearl. Weird.
Probably goes and functions well, just looks weird. I like the analogy to the Saab 93.
PS
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You could use a higher wattage resistor also. But the motor is almost certainly teh culprit.
PS
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What year model is it? Does it use R12 or R134a Freon? Do you have any test equipment, or can borrow some? Have you checked fuses and see if the compressor is even turning? Might be electrical rather than low freon.
Peter S
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I like cut-away drawings. Part see-through view learning and part art.
Can anybody point me to any Subaru Engine and Outback etc?
Also any animations of engines operating would be great too.
Thanks.
Peter S
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Interesting to say the least. Apparently different variants of the same year model have different dash controls, but which do, and which don't? With this in mind I wonder if they are interchangable. I'd rather have a rotory dial than climate control if thats the exchange.
Peter S
our 01 OBW just has a rotary dial... Same for heat/cool and diverter control. -
Can somebody tell me if their 01 Outback (any variant) has a one button fan speed control vs a rotary dail?
PS
I drove an 2001 Outback VDC with H6-3.0. It had an irritating one button control for dash fan speed. Push once to forward up in speed or continue to push till you're back to low speed. Is that unique for the H6 or any 01 Outback? The 02 had a proper rotory dail control. Don't remember the 00'.Peter S
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Really like the H6 VDC outback I test drove but didn't like the black leather. Just too hot. Probably cold and stiff in winter too. Was there a dark color cloth available with H6? Is there a dark color cloth seat from another version/model that would fit properly I could sway with?
Peter S
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I drove an 2001 Outback VDC with H6-3.0. It had an irritating one button control for dash fan speed. Push once to forward up in speed or continue to push till you're back to low speed. Is that unique for the H6 or any 01 Outback? The 02 had a proper rotory dail control. Don't remember the 00'.
Peter S
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The sales guy said the 'real' price was $2-3K off the posted price which was on a car that wasn't there more than a couple days. He said it was to come down a lot and to make a low offer since it had 92K miles. They only came down $200 so wasn't anywhere near half way or whatever to meet me. They wanted me to come up $5K which is unrealistic.
Peter S
maybe the dealer just got the car in and thinks he can get more for it from the next guy who walks in. Since I don't know the specifics of this car you're looking at, I don't know what's a "fair" deal. But just reading your post, I have a hard time beleiving a dealer would drop 4k off his 16k starting price. (of course dropping only $200 sounds a little stingy too).But look at it this way. if I was selling a car i thought was worth 15k, and had an asking price of 16k and someone comes along and offers 12k, I'd tell him to get lost. but if the car is ACTUALLY worth 12k, then I would realize at some point, my asking price was unreasonable and cut my price. IF you really like this car (which it sounds like you don't), then wait a couple of months and go back and offer him 12k. If it sells before then, then that means you were wrong and the car was worth more than you thought. if it sits there, that means you're right and the dealer will come to his senses and "let the car go" at your price.
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I've been to 3 different dealers in the last 4 months or so and tried to work a deal but on every occasion they only come down in price $2-300 from full price or make the deal appear better by trying to finance the remaining amount above my offer price. Today I tried to buy something for about $10K but of course needed more to get it done. Dealer wanted $16K but that was full price and were said to really be $13.5K. 'Ignore that sticker' statements. We kept being told they were trying to move inventory to make room yada yada and to make any low offer. So I said $10K. Dealer came back with $15.8K. I said I'm not going back and forth so said $12K out the door and my final offer. Another return with the 'manager' showing me the value claim from KBB and other BS then said only if I add taxes and transfer fees to that. I said my final offer was $12K out the door. I figured/hoped he'd come back with $12.5K but that was truely the highest I would go. Again he left and returned saying it would be a $2000 loss and now wouldn't take the $12K with taxes either. BS! So we walked. It has black leather which I don't like being very hot in summer so I knew I would have to do something with that so another reason not to over spend. This was at a Subaru / BMW dealer and was trying to buy an Outback 6cyl. Couple months ago was the same scenario with a Toyota dealer, and again before that at a Checy dealer selling a Toyota.
Is that the latest trend!? $200 off full price?
Peter S
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Nobody has the H6-3.0 engine?
Peter S
Looked at a real nice 2001 Legacy Outback with the H6-3.0 engine. Its black granite exterior, black leather, dual sunroofs, winter package, lots of bells and whistles and 92K miles. For maintenance I need to do most of it myself and am very capable, but is the 6cyl hard to access or otherwise service? More than the 4cyl? Couldn't even see the spark plugs. What sort of problems has this engine history have? Once the plastic top cover comes off is access decent?Is about $13000 at a Subaru dealer.
Please advise!
Peter S
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Just dump the old filters fuel into your drain pan of your next oil change. Or into the container you put used oil.
There is no need to reset the computer for a fuel filter.
Peter S
I changed my fuel filter today and it went pretty smoothy. I didn't use the car since yesterday, but I turned on the power to bring my windows down and I guess that caused the fuel pump to pressurize. After opening the gas cap, all of the spilling stopped.Now for my question - how much gas is usually in the old filter and what do you do with it? Can it be poured back into the tank or should it be thrown out? Also, should I reset the ECU but disconnecting the battery so it can re-learn with the new filter or should everything stay the same.
Thanx,
Pete
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Looked at a real nice 2001 Legacy Outback with the H6-3.0 engine. Its black granite exterior, black leather, dual sunroofs, winter package, lots of bells and whistles and 92K miles. For maintenance I need to do most of it myself and am very capable, but is the 6cyl hard to access or otherwise service? More than the 4cyl? Couldn't even see the spark plugs. What sort of problems has this engine history have? Once the plastic top cover comes off is access decent?
Is about $13000 at a Subaru dealer.
Please advise!
Peter S
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Eastern Washington is the same. They're everywhere!
Peter S
Western Washington is lousy with them. I swear that every 10th car is a Subaru. There is a Subaru dealer within 2 miles of me and another 3 within 20 miles. When we were in Southern California and looked for a dealer, there were only 3 in the whole Los Angeles basin and the nearest to where we were was 40 miles away. -
When I test drove a 2002 Outback I noticed the mirror was irritatingly low too just like you said. But, since the mirror is mounted with 2 articulating joints it can be slid upward then repositioned correctly. I gained about 2 inches up having it set right.
Peter S
Got a new OB just like you, Spider. Had it for a few months, now.Some things that, well, suck about it:
1. Can't see around the large rearview mirror when turning right uphill. You have to duck under it to see. The auto dimming feature is a joke. Give me the mirror from my old '98 wagon; one that I could just about see through and that "flipped" to dim. Trust me, after a few weeks, you'll never look at the compass on it anyway.
2. The gas pedal is so sloppy that it is impossible to relax your foot/leg/calf as to NOT accelerate. Because of this 'slop' (and the fact that the brake pedal is full inch-and-a-half above the gas pedal at rest), heel-to-toe braking and accelerating is nearly impossible and causes extreme ankle/leg fatigue. If you do find that happy spot where this is possible, you'll pratically be in the back seat and unable to reach the steering wheel. This from a car with 8-way seats! The best you can do is hope to drive where you can set the cruise control and relax. Try doing that off road. Which brings me to the third thing.
3. Their is no such thing as an 2005 Outback wagon. Unless you have an Imreza, you don't have a wagon you have an SUV, a UT. You'll see this when your registration arrives and your insurance premiums will reflect this. This thing is heavier, handles worse and is MUCH more sluggish, even with a 2.5 engine in it, than my '98. I used to be able to play a tune on the '98s auto simply by needling the throttle; heel-to-toe I might add. This thing just winds up real fast and then lets you down. I could sportshift it I guess, but, this too is a joke. You can't grab the shifter for support while "sporting" whithout shifting it At least with my '98 I knew which gear I was in by the POSITION of the gear shift lever, not some number on the dash which doesn't even light up until you shift while IN sportshift mode. .Wait 'til the day you don't realize you left it in sports shift or that it slipped into sport shift. You'll be turning 5 Rs before you realize it. Not good.
4. Keyless entry fob is so touchy that simply slipping it into your pocket will, more than likely, unlock your car as you walk away. The only real way to make sure you're car is locked while you're away is to hold the car key in your hand as you walk away and slip it in your pocket after you're fifty yards away. OR, toss the fob and only use the key.
Still, I like the safety features, AWD and the ground clearance. It is quieter. Oh, and the headlights look cool. However, I wish I had my '98 back. It was much more fun to drive.
I'm just saying don't assume, anymore, that just because it's new and Subaru that it's going to be as good as the one you had before.
Juan
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What models and years have this push button feature?
Peter S
I just push a button on the dash and up it goes an inch or two. Any higher and I need to get out the floor jack.
I suppose if you were realy determined you could retrofit an air suspension to your car but I wouldn't recommend it. Parts are really expensive when they start to go. They were found in some 90 to 94 Legacys.
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Wondering about the ability to change the ride height easily for snow/winter driving and lower for summer. Was there a model that used air or something else stock? What do people do to raise a Legacy to the height of an Outback or higher?
Peter S
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The pressure underneath just keeps the unit from falling as you removed the attaching nuts and bolts. You will lower the strut finally with the jack. On some cars the swaybar will fight you some but often have enough movement to get it out anyway.
The brakes lines hopefully only hook onto the strut with clips, no need to open the hydraulics normally.
Peter S
hha sounds good. I ahve to un hook the brake lines cause it goes through the strut and clips on. -
In my experience the best approach is to place the area of the car on jack stands, then using your jack, support the bottom area of the suspension side in question. The Spindle as you call it. Just barely take the weight off is fine. Mark the camber and caster settings where possible. Trace the strut connections with a marking pen for example.
If applicable, remove any brake hoses or ABS wires and hoses from the strut, but don't disconnect them hydraulically or electrically. Loosen ALL the strut attaching bolts a turn or two but don't remove them completely. This is easier with all parts attached than fighting with one while the others offer no support. Remove the strut top nuts from the chassis (not the center large strut nut!). The weight of the strut will be held by the jack below. Remove the lower attaching nuts/bolts and lower the jack to clear the upper section and remove the strut and take to your bench vise.
The rest sounds like you already know. Suffice to say - be careful with spring compressors!
I have changed many struts. Never a Subaru however but the basics surely will be the same or similar.
Peter S
i don't remember touching my cv's....you jack up the car, put it on jack stands.
then you take your jack, and throw it under the knuckle, and take a tiny bit of preasure off of the strut to knuckle bolts, then crank those bad boys off, then you can slowly lower the knuckle assembly onto a piece of wood or something, then you can pop off the top strut mounts. and it should fall out, you might want to support the bottom of the strut so it doesn't come crashing down and break everything. remember to make the relationship of the knuckle to strut bolts so you don't mess w/ your allignment too much.
if you're going to be removing the strut mounts... be careful... or else you'll get a strut mount FLYING across the shop breaking stuff.... OOPS!
note: this is just how i do it, i guess you could do it other ways to.
Grounding Mod Re-visited **56K Warning**
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Should definitly not be red wire for ground, and I wonder about the rust or corrosion issues of grinding area's not to be covered. They'll need to be painted or plated to avoid it. But what started the problem anyway?
Peter