SquigSprinter

Using an additional engine cross member was my initial plan (this does match what I have seen in the previous tcase builds) , but I wasn't sure I'd be able to extend the steering input shaft (i.e. the part that goes to the u joint) through the additional cross member To handle the steering adjustment I was thinking of extending the tie rod ends and leaving the steering rack where it is. I'll have to see how extreme the angle becomes with this approach The front control arms have two mounting points that I am planning to drop down off of the fabricated portion of the front subframe. Depending on the trickiness of relocating the front control arm mounting point I may end up cutting/using a portion of a front cross member anyway (the bottom half) Reusing the rear subframe will provide a start to integrating the equivalent of "frame rails" to mount the t case to. Between mounting this front subframe (with rail supporting the tcase) to the original control arm mounting points, the transmission cradle mounting points, and eventually the rear subframe I hope to provide enough support The 2.0 in the Crosstrek doesn't make a crazy amount of torque but I am concerned with the larger gear ratios still blowing components up.

I'd try 6 inches first (Raceworks coilovers can get me to that height without top hat spacers). Between that and 31s I would hope to regain the clearance lost from the front diff getting mounted. We'll see how the fab goes in the front, my plan is to order a rear subframe and cut/modify it to incorporate in front control arm mounts and build up the front subframe from this

Aye the welded center diff would be required in my case (this is a 23 Crosstrek with the dr 5mt swapped in, it has the viscous coupling center diff and came with 4.44 final drive stock) If I go with the Samurai tcase I plan to upsized tires to 31s to take advantage of the hi range reduction I know the older stub style cvs tended to explode from too much torque, this would be using newer style Subaru CV axles. I mostly want to avoid getting all of this low gearing in place and then start popping diffs/CV axles.

Hey folks For those of you who have gone down the path of putting a divorced transfer case and using a rear diff (plus fabrication) to serve as a front diff, how well do the diffs and cv axles hold up to the additional low range gearing? For context this is using the newer VA type 2 r160 diffs found in the Ascents and Outback Wilderness (with the 4.44 final drive) and newer style CV axles that don't have the stub out for the inner CV assembly. This would be getting mated to a Subaru dual range with 1.44 reduction Mostly curious if something like the Suzuki tcase with the extra low range gearing will be too low for the rest of drivetrain. If you've done this mod before, how well did the rest of the drivetrain hold up?

Heyo everybody! Recently joined the Subaru clan back in 2023 with a 6mt Crosstrek I got the manual with the goal of drivetrain modifications (CVTs, Eyesight, and other modern Subaru features don't always lend itself well to modifications). I started with a 2 inch lift and changing tires/wheels to 235/75/r15s and have slowly added upgrades from there. Last summer I put in a dual range 5mt with the 1.447 reduction with a torsen LSD in the front diff. The 6mt came with the diffs with the 4.44 final drive, with the dual range lo gearing it gets me a 23:1 crawl ratio Custom fabrication that I've done to upgrade my rig: rear tire swing out, high clearance front bumper, dual range shift lever with a Polaris side-by-side shift cable. Currently upgrade I'm putting in is a Torq locker in the rear diff, I'm curious to see how that helps with traction My long term plan is to get a divorced tcase setup running. I think this will be fun to do on a modern Subaru.