rubuild
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Posts posted by rubuild
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It's either above the fuse box in a single fuse holder probably still wrapped in tape, or the behind the right kick panelWhere is it?I have no power to the pump, I'm guessing the fuse but it isn't marked on the panel.
Kerry/Roo-Builders
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I recall a couple of fuses, inline, above the fuse box for f/pump, charging, and chokemy vehicle starts and runs for about 5 seconds before cutting off. i had the voltage regulator and alternator checked-all good. the fuel pump is ok, i guess. any suggestions? thanks. richKerry/Roo-Builders
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Two things stick in my mind after being a mechanic for 35 years.
1. Years ago I witnessed a young trainee throwing emissions components over his shoulder into a dumpster faster than he could name them, and telling the customer as he stood and watched, "hell yall don't need this stuff anyway, they just put it on for looks" and I thought about the poor engineers that went to school all those years designing these systems....
2. Someone once told me, what people don't understand, they just throw away!!
Attached (I hope) is a picture of a properly desmogged induction system, from a company in Colorado, I'll try to find some info
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On an MPI you can cross the fuel lines, being the same size. I don't recall if that is possible with SPI
Roo-Builders
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As embarrassing as this is, due to a seriies of family situations this year in order to avoid forclosure on my home and subsequent closure of 17 years in business i'm reaching out for a massive number of orders off my web site for carbs, distributors, throttle bases, and hillholders. www.ccrengines.com/roobuilders. I'm not asking for handouts, just orders, from now until Dec 10 all orders will come with an instant 25% rebate. Should I pull this off (or not) my sincere thanks to everyone now and in the past for your patonage. I've always said Subaru people are the best and friendliest customers in the world. P.S. This offer is only for good for products from Roo-Builders and not CCR.
Kerry
Roo-Builders
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Lets try it this way, since I don't know the model # I may not have the Jet sizes exact. Starting at the low speed air/idle next to the acc. pump well you should have a 43 or 46 with 4 bleed holes at the tip. Hold this jet up to the light to make sure it is not plugged. Don't overtighten. The brass plug on top of that. Then the primary main air/emulsion tube. One of the two longest jets a 60 or 65 with the closed end. Goes in line with the primary aux venturi. Next is the secondary main air/emulsion tube open end and should be a 100 the same lenght or maybe a little longer, in line with the secondary aux. venturi. Next is the secondary slow jet looks just like the first jet and can be either a 80, 100, 135. On top of that is the secondary slow jet and should be a 100 it's a short jet. The primary slow jet is the only one in the top of the carb and should be a 160 or 170. Main jets primary range 113 to 116 and secondary range 156 to 160AS far as your jets in the body of the carb. The smaller number always goes in the primary side -
AS far as your jets in the body of the carb. The smaller number always goes in the primary sideSo I thought I'd try to rebuild the Hitachi carb off my '86 wagon. I was in too big of a hurry and didn't pay enough attention to the jet #'s/locations when removing them and now I'm in a pickle. I gave it my best guess but it turned out bad. Does anyone know the proper jet order so I can get this thing running smooth?Here's a pic:
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I'm sorry this offer is only good for products from Roo-Builders page and not CCR, You can E-Mail CCR directly for prices.
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As embarrassing as this is, due to a seriies of family situations this year in order to avoid forclosure on my home and subsequent closure of 17 years in business i'm reaching out for a massive number of orders off my web site for carbs, distributors, throttle bases, and hillholders. www.ccrengines.com/roobuilders. I'm not asking for handouts, just orders, from now until Dec 10 all orders will come with an instant 25% rebate. Should I pull this off (or not) my sincere thanks to everyone now and in the past for your patonage. I've always said Subaru people are the best and friendliest customers in the world. P.S. This offer is only for good for products from Roo-Builders and not CCR.
Kerry
Roo-Builders
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I've seen this problem a number of times, and found it to be an aftermarket PCV Valve, or an air control valve with oil in it. The PCV Valve was the most common, the OEM valve will have a 31D (or the like) stamped on the hex part of the valve and an oem will say made in USA (bless their souls) where the hose fits on on most.
Kerry/Roo-Builders
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I have a 86 ea82 4x4 wagon that i just put a junk yard engine in with 96.000 miles. My question is what is the diff between 4x4 carb and 2 wd carb? Been running great for last 2 weeks but just today when i go around sharp corners the engine sputters then goes back to normal. So is it because i have a 2 wd carb on that came with the engine or is it a sticky float from sitting for two years? I have ran good carb cleaner in it but still does it around corners.
Your best bet is to swap complete manifold and carb from the original engine. Unless your vehicle has California emissions, I'm suprised it runs at all. All 2wd EA-82 carbs are ECM controlled, 4wd EA-82 does not use a computer exc. Cal. Computer controlled carbs. have a 4 prong elect connector, all others a 3 prong
Kerry
Roo-Builders
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PCV valve
Thermostat ( and retain same temp )
Distributor caps and rotors for Hitachi models
Oil Filter
Engine bearings (manufactured by NOK?? for Subaru) alot of bearing companies
rebox with ?NOK?
Not a must, but better of with:
EA-81 Clutch cables
EA-82 V/C gasket kits
Front brake pads w/kits
Timing belts
Carbureted air filters encased in metal not rubber
Fuel filters by Nippon-Micro (for Subaru)
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Hello Suby Lovers...
I'm trying to love mine, a 88 MPFI turbo GL wagon. Fell in love with the car right away, started fixin it up... drove to Col. [from AZ] and broke a belt...[idler pully froze] fixed it, [thanks to your forum]... it ran good for a couple days, except once it lost power over 1500 rpm's but returned to normal after a 5 min stop and inspection. Left for home the next day and 15 miles out of town it lost power over 1500 rpm's again... stopped and rested at the next town, and a few hours later it started and accelerated smoothly to 65mph only to crap out after afew highway miles, to only 1200 to 1500 rpm and i limped back 40 some miles that way. The dealer here says he cant tell whats wrong... no erroe codes fuel pressures ok [says he couldnt check volume]... he said he'd go on lookingat $70/hour but I'm away from home... broke and staying with friends... sooo.. I'm gona fix it. I changed a slow fuel filter and got 2000 rpms [before crap out] disconnected the catalytic converter-tail pipe-muffler [thought it might be pluged] and got 2500 rpms before it falls on its face and stops pulling. I'm sure the cam timing belts are right and that wouldn't be an intermitten problem any way. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this... any educated guesses? I'm at a loss.
Boo
Stuck in Colorado
Welcome to Colorado,
We have come upon this problem a few times, and it has been just after someone bought the car and now that I think of it, all were a turbo. Check the nylon mesh screen in the inlet side of the fuel pump. Unfortunately you will probably find some rust. If so, you can get to the fuel pump sending unit through the floor of the luggage compartment, pull it out and look inside. Someone may have figured it out and replaced the tank but not the screen. I've also fish out other items in tanks, blocking the pickup tube. And while your checking tank related problems, make sure you have the correct gas cap. After you get it going, take five, throw out a line and hope the fish don't bother ya.
Kerry
Roo-builders
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Hey, my son called up that when he stops at a light his idle begins to climb, and climb and up over 2,000 rpm plus as he describes.
It was idling fine this morning. What would I begin too look at?
1984, Subaru Brat. Non-Turbo, Carberated 1800. 185,000 miles.
He tried punching the gas pedel to step it down and that didn't help.
Thanks in advance.
Also: FYI: it is hot here, 90+ today
Check to make sure you have enough slack in the cable between the cable bracket and throttle lever
Kerry/Roo-Builders
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First my 2 cents, then a funny story on cooling fans. Your oxygen sensor reads the temp. off the cat. with no cat it reads cold and tells the comp. to run full rich. It will never pass without a cat. High HC can be the result of everything out of adjustment trying to compensate for the rich mixture. Ok a funny story about cooling fans. This problem stumped a few very good diagnostic techs for a few days. This was on a renault, not a Subaru, renault is the only car in the world you could do this to. We had R & Rd the engine for a clutch job, everything went according to plan. Except on the test drive on the highway it would overheat. Would not overheat idleing or running 4000 rpm standing still for 30 minutes straight. So we are standing in front of this car in deep concentration when the cooling fan cycled on, and all 4 of us at the same time said, how come our shop coats are blowing in the breeze of the fan. Turns out renault is about the only car you can cross the cooling fan wires (2 males connectors on the harness side and 2 female off the fan, instead of 1 male and 1 female) and the fan runs backwards. (Lucas electrical system) highway speeds were just blowing the hot air back thru the radiator. We promised each other we would never mention this to anyone but I just couldn't resist.
Kerry
Roo-Builders
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A vacuum gauge would diagnose the problem in a matter of seconds.
Kerry/Roo-Builders
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The secondary ignition is not fused.(- side of the coil,distributor,etc). If the fuse blows when you turn the key to the on position,(not start) it could be door ajar system, fuel pump circuit, ecm or wiring to the + side of the coil, voltmeter, tach, or idiot lights, etc. If it blows in the cranking position, the starter is not fused in the fuse box, so I would think it to be in the fuel pump relay, or rev sensor, that supplies power to the pump only during cranking. Good luck
Kerry/Roo-Builders
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Above or behind your fuse box there are 3 single wire connectors, 2 blue & 1 green. TTth Two of these will be connected, either blue with the blue or blue with the green. Unplug the two currently connected and connect the female blue connector to the previously unused green or blue connector. This resets the EGR light.
Kerry/Roo-Builders
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A 12 is an identification code, verifies the make and model is all. Plug the connectors back in, the fuel pump will run all the time when connect, drive about a mile and recheck the computor for codes, with the engine running, key on/engine off will give you the id codes. good luck
Kerry/Roo-Builders
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The supply line, which is out of view thru the sender hole, is behind a partition, and has a sock filter on the opening, it sucks fuel from the very bottom of the tank. There is one very unorthadox way to check this. That is to swap the fuel line to the filter and the fuel return line at the tank. The return line inside the tank does not reach the bottom couple of inches of gas and debris, and has no filter on it. If that fix's it, you'll need to pull the tank out of the car, to see if someone might have used a rag as a gas cap at one time and now it's inside. It's impossible to clean out well enough without sending to a radiator shop, so consider a used one. And a word to the wise, keep your mouth shut and goggles on when pulling hoses, tanks, and filters from underneath.
Kerry/Roo-Builders
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This is going to sound alot more complicated than it really is. The light you are trying to get to go out is telling you that you have a problem, and that you need to access the computor, and it will tell you exactly what the problem(s) is. and which part(s) are bad. It is a rather long diagnostic process, so if you want to tackle it, e-mail me directly and I can send you the diagnostic charts and trouble codes to download. FYI most states check that light as part of the emissions test.
Kerry/Roo-Builders
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If I recall, that year has 3 inline fuses (not in the fuse box). One on a white/red wire for the regulator/ alt, one for the fuel pump. I've seen broken fuses (not blown) make an on again/off again contact.
kerry/roo-builders
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The other 2 wires are turbo/knock sensor related. Retards timing under hard acc. for pinging & knocking. If you want to know if your sensor is working, hook up a timing light, and lightly tap with a hammer around the area of the sensor.
Kerry/Roo-Builders
hitachi vacuum hookup questions
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
The reason your having trouble with vacuum circuits, is due to the carb your using being an 81 only carb. Subarus first attempt at ecm control. They s***canned it right away. The vacuum port on your secondary housing was used to pull off the secondarys in a fast decel so your throttle would not stick wide open. I will try to attach 3 vacuum schematics for 81, they might help, however you would be better off with a federal carb. from an 84 if you could find one.
Kerry/Roo-Builders
Files are to large E-mail me if you like
rubuild@aol.com