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floater

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Posts posted by floater

  1. thanks, that does sound much easier.

     

    disconnecting the lower coolant pipe is much easier than re-sealing those two plugs. It's just one hose connector. To fill up the system connect the hose (of course) jack up the front of the car and remove the venting cap on the opposite side of the radiator. Now slowly poor new coolant into the radiator main filler hole. This works fine and is very simple.

    (and just for sure, make sure coolant has cooled down before working with it)

  2. Thanks for all of the advice. One other symptom I noticed after I was reading on this forum and checked. Car at operating temperature and cap off overflow tank there are bubbles comming up.

     

    I am going to do a total drain and flush of raditor. I had to order a 14mm hex drive socket so I can remove the two plugs for the block. Will also clean out overflow tank. I then will refill with new coolant and see how quickly the overflow becomes dirty.

  3. I don't really put anything in the car except techron in the gas tank right before I change the oil. Is there any confirmed way of testing?

     

    Well, the coolant chambers are all physically above the oil return passages. And I doubt that a pressurized system would allow oil to seep in. It would have to be from the pressurized oil feed lines to be at the HG, but unlikely.

     

    Trans fluid is cooled in a chamber on the side of the radiator. Actually this warms the trans oil as well in cold weather so it's really more of a heat exchange than a true cooler. Anyhow, possible, but not too common.

     

    Are you sure it is actually oil and not residual sludge from some additive?

  4. 96 Outback

    156k miles

     

    Noticed that the radiator overflow had some black gunk in it. I put my finger in and it looks like oil. Tank also smells like oil. Car has been using oil. Car has always passed smog. Took it in to shop and gave symptoms and mechanic told me that subaru uses radiator to cool transmission and that they would need to remove radiator and send radatior for testing to confirm it was not transmission oil? WTF? ever heard of this?:-\ What are my options?

  5. Thanks for the info. After reading the responses I went out and really pushed down hard on the brake pedal and walla, into neutral it went! Its funny but I had my foot down on the brake pedal yesterday but maybe it has something to do witht he fact that I had just bled the brakes and was not pushing hard enough? I jumped with my girlfriends car and no start. I'm almost postive its the battery as it barely cranks over on its own.

  6. 96 Outback, AT.

    Have the car in garage after a brake job. It won't start. I tried cranking it a few times and it may be the battery as it was sitting a while. So I was going to shift it into neutral and roll it out of garage and jump start it in driveway except you can't move the shift lever out of park unless the engine is running. Why is this? My girlfriends camry can be shifted, with the engine off, and key turned, from park to neutral.

  7. Rear brakes Have had rubbing of caliper on disc. After removing pads, which were in good condition, I noticed that the lock pin boots are torn. The lock pin was easy to remove with 14mm socket but how does the guide pin come out of the mounting bracket? I ordered caliper rebuild kit from Napa and after receiving it today it looks nothing like what I need. The image attached shows what my rear brake looks like. The lock pin takes two boots, one on each side. The guide pin on top takes one guide pin boot.

     

    1996 Outback

    post-12291-136027626491_thumb.gif

  8. 1996 Outback....

     

     

    FWD or AWD car??? Need more info!!!

    AWD will give more resistance than a FWD will....

    That said - an easy 'test' if you will is to pull the pads and try spinning again - if it spins easier, then check your rotors for warping.

     

    I have an AWD that has a bad caliper - right rear - completely trashed a new set of pads in just a few months - pulled the caliper and completely disassembled because I couldnt get the piston to press back in for new pads...nasty....lots of gunk had built up and the piston is pitted - looking for a replacement caliper now....

  9. I find Redline works well in my front/rear differntial. It flows well even at very cold temperatures.

     

    I would recommend avoiding any cocktails, or magical blends.

     

    Valvoline Synpower 75w-90 is the absolute best.

     

    Motul Motylgear 75w-90 comes second.

     

    Nothing fills the third place, since only the two above can cure the 2. and 3. gear KERRunches. Even on 20 year old Alcyones ;)

     

    On my list of experince:

     

    Quakerstate 75W.

    Castrol TAF-X / Syntorq 75W-90

     

    Both of those above are good in newer/low mileage transmissions.

     

     

    Redline 75W-90

    Shell 75W-80

    Mobilube 75W-90

    Castrol Syntrax 75W-90

     

     

    ATF fluid is a NO-GO!

  10. I pulled mine out a year ago and thought it looked okay. I had a new one in a box sitting in my storage. I changed the oil and then pulled the old air filter. What suprised me was that under the filter in the housing was lots of sand and small rocks. The filter was preventing this from being sucked into the air intake but I completely cleaned this out and put in a new filter. I wish I had checked it earlier.

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