jib
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Posts posted by jib
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You are comparing you're XC90 to a GT model. Outbacks have almost 11 inches of clearance.
Yes, I'm comparing a GT to a SUV. I stated that. I can't compare what I don't know. What I do know though is that no stock Outback has 11 inches of ground clearance - ELEVEN inches of freeboard below the suspension. Sorry, but no way. Maybe 7 or 8 inches
FYI - I stated very clearly in my post both of the following statements:
"Bottom line is that I am comparing apples and oranges with these two vehicles. Bang for the buck, the Subie is far superior. It's nearly as good as the Volvo at almost half the cost. "
And
"Again, I am comparing apples and oranges with these two vehicles. The comparison may be different with two similar sized vehicles, but don't discount the Volvo AWD based on the you tube video. There is a lot of fine engineering behind both of these vehicles."
I love my Subie and I love the Volvo. Two very different vehicles, each with strong points. My point was that I wouldn't judge the Volvo by the youtube video. Volvo's AWD system is exemplary, but expensive to buy and repair. The Subie does great with a much less expensive product.
FYI - We bought the Volvo for my Realtor wife. It was one of the few vehicles I felt justified the absurd price. She sells homes in the high dollar range, so the investment in her professional appearance made sense, but bang for the buck, nothing out there beats the Subie for overall performance and value.
BTW - 2 hours after they opened the Mt. pass which was closed most of the week, we cruised up in the Subie, not the Volvo.
3pin - Yeah, I think Volvo has slid somewhat under Ford, but mostly quality, not engineering. BTW - I'm a pinhead too; well more of a "cable" head these days.
Jack
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OK, now that's interesting. I guess I thought that the block heater would warm the water in the block causing it to circulate a bit maybe, and in turn warm everything including the oil.
The water does not get down to the bottom of the oil pan level. Cold oil is a real issue and the reason why many folk who live in cold areas use synthetic. It's a lot thinner at cold tems.
Also, keep the revs down until everything warms up.
Jack, now living in temperate Seattle, but coming from Maine, Vermont and Quebec.
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Lone dissenting voice:
In really nasty (life threatening) winter conditions, I do prefer our 05 Volvo XC90 over my 02 Legacy GT, but:
1. The Volvo cost twice what the Subie cost
2. The Volvo has twice the ground clearance of the Subie
on the other side of the equasion,
3. Volvo parts are 50% more expensive than Subie parts.
4. Volvo is more likely to need service than the Subie.
They both have Nokian Hakka snow tires on all four corners and it is my personal belief the you tube video is a piece of BS. Volvo's Haldex AWD is known to be one of the best on the planet, and it's pretty awesome, but in 95% of conditions, the traction will be the same or very close. Where the Volvo excels is in the specific drive train electronic controls.
Bottom line is that I am comparing apples and oranges with these two vehicles. Bang for the buck, the Subie is far superior. It's nearly as good as the Volvo at almost half the cost.
99% of the time, we take the Subie up the nasty winter roads. I can be a very aggressive winter driver; aggressive in terms of doing what it takes to get where I am going. I'm more comfortable throwing the Subie around and wailing it up snow covered roads, possibly because it's so low and stable, but with the Washington State I-90 pass closed due to depth of snow and avalanches for most of the past week, if they open it up tonight, we'll be in the Volvo. 9 inches of ground clearance and huge tires will get us where we want to go better than the Subie.
Again, I am comparing apples and oranges with these two vehicles. The comparison may be different with two similar sized vehicles, but don't discount the Volvo AWD based on the you tube video. There is a lot of fine engineering behind both of these vehicles.
Jack
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OK, so it seems like the old battery may have contributed to the issue. I did have two, maybe three, non-starts with the bad battery; once when I first discovered it was dead, and one, possibly two non-starts, as it was being charged. I was late for a meeting and tried to start it before the battery had sufficient charged to fully crank it. FYI - The charger is a old Schauer 10 AMP.
I'm going to find the connectors for the solenoid circuitry and open/close the connector a few times to insure there is no corrosion there. I own two Triumphs and old habits die hard. Then I'm just going to pretend that code did not get set and not worry about it, unless it pops up again.
Also, it appears that it's finally time for me to log onto the Subie OEM site and download my FSM.
Thanks for all of the help guys. I'll report back if the CEL is thrown again.
Jack
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I love the needle fitting for my grease gun. It works wonders.
Jack
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Ferrett,
I did just replace a weak battery, so there may have also been a low voltage situation during starting.
I'll take a good look at, then dissassemble, clean and re-assemble the starter solenoid wiring and check everything out for corrosion and impedance.
I don't believe the starter is in an overrunning situation, it's just not that type of noise.
Given the old battery situation, once I've gone through the wiring, I'll reset the code and run it for a while. If that does not do it, I'll pick up a solenoid, then remove and test the old one and yes, I'll disconnect the battery prior to playing with any of the starter electrics. I'm not fond of big sparks in my engine bay.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate your help.
Jack
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The subject says it all. I've thrown
CEL P1518 Starter switch circuit low input
on my 02 Legacy GT, 5 speed Wagon, but don't quite understand what this CEL is trying to tell me. Can anyone provide some help on trying to figure this one out.
The starter may be starting to sound just a tad different; I'm not sure, it's hard to tell with the change in outside temperature, and the car has 99.3K miles.
Thanks in advance,
Jack
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Dave,
Not the answer you are looking for, but additional information.
I bought a Primative http://www.get-primitive.com/ skid plate for my 02 Legacy GT because I like the design better than the typical Rallitek design. It has large (strong) creases running front to back, along the sides, so it should be stronger than the flatter Rallitek.
The downside is that it does not have access holes for oil changes, so I have to pull the four bolts and drop the pan, which is a very minor issue.
The upside is that it does not have access holes for oil changes to get hung up on something, like a rock, when the plate should slide over it. Also, dirt and junk cannot come up though a hole that is not there.
It's all about tradeoffs,
Jack
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I jacked our 1200 Evo up on some small rectangles of cutting board, which matched the rectangles on the Thule brackets. I used two 1/2 inch thicknesses at each attachment point, so I raised the box up one inch. The stock bolts still fit (barely), which is good, because they are specialized, big head, metric carriage bolts. Now I can open the hatch without the box hitting it and I can also open the front tilting sunroof on my 02 Legacy GT.
Note - If you have the box or attachments block the sunroof from opening/tilting, you can strip the mechanism -> big $$$'s.
Jack
EDIT: Lego99 hit the nail on the head. While I had shimmed the box up last year, as I didn't want to drill the box, I finallly broke down and drilled it. I put another set of holes to the rear of the existing set, effectively moving the box foward on the crossbars. Ths allowed the bars to move far enough back that the Thule bar attachment system cleared the pop up front skylight, yet the back of the box still cleared the hatch when it was opened.
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Here in the PWN (I live in Seattle) all season should be fine, unless you head up to the passes regularly. If this is the case, and you don't want a dedicated set of tires/wheels with snow tires, check out the Nokain WR. It's an all season tire that is better in snow than many snow tires, but is fine for year round driving. Get them in a stock size, as going wide is not good in slush/snow conditions.
If you go with a dedicated tire for the winter, by all means feel free to go wider on your summer tires.
The Tire Factory has the WR all over the greater Seattle area.
Jack
Covington, WA
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We run four snows on our two drivers, but a fellow ski patroller was looking for a good all season tire. I told her the only tire to consider was the Nokian WR. It's not inexpensive, but she was very happy with the dry/wet performance and just flat out blown away by the snow performance.
I recommend the WR for anyone who does not want to invest in dedicated snow tires and a second set of rims.
jack
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Andy sorry for the scuffs to the baby.
Glad no one was injured.
but I have to wonder
Does your horn work??
I hope everyone is well, but in addition to the horn, how about the brakes or acceleration pedal?
It sounds like there was time to take some evasive action, but maybe not.
Glad the damage was car only.
Jack
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This is the article that gave me the idea.
Nice! While a smaller filter should be fine, larger is better in my book. If your engine is clogging up, even the smaller filter, and causing oil to bypass the filter, you have some serious issues.
Jack
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The car has always had 'clutch-judder' when starting from cold, but this has always disappeared when the engine warms up. I recall some mention of a special clutch-kit that cures clutch-judder, but I can't find it on the forum using the search function. Anyone know the part-number for this kit.
Any advice would be welcome.
The clutch was redesigned somewhere around 2003 to eliminate the judder, so a stock clutch system will be better. Mine was replaced under warantee and while the judder was gone, that nasty smell was evident if the clutch needed to be slipped.
While I have done any conclusive research yet (I have about 70k miles on the warantee replaced clutch), there are some good OEM type aftermarket clutch packages that might work for you.
Jack
Jack
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Can't anyone clean the injectors in some acohol? How do I remove them to begin with?
Eric,
I cleaned up a set that had sat for 7 years and would not flow much at all (they dribbled) by removing them and flowing turpentine through them with compressed air as a driving force and a 12V, 1amp power supply, switched on and off using me, tapping the wire on the power supply clamp as the switch. I had four injectors wired in series, as they were low inpedance injectors and I didn't want to damage them. When all eight injectors would spray the same pattern on the ceiling (30 psi Lucas injectors), I was done. The car runs fine now. This process involves nasty chemicals and the potential to overcurrent the injectors, destroying them. Do not attempt it unless you know what you are doing.
It is not hard to damage injectors. They have small solenoid built into them. Too much current will fry these coils, rendering the injector useless and new ones are expensive. The Pintles are precision machined parts and a nick or ding can damage them.
Soaking in alcohol or solvent will likelyl not clean them effectively. They need to be flowed with a cleaner. For most of us, adding a good injector cleaner (Chevron Techron, Redline S1, etc.) on a few successive tanks of gas will do the trick.
One method of on car cleaning that has worked for me is to add enough injector cleaner to treat a full tank of fuel when it was at 1/4 tank and run this mix until the low fuel light came on, preferrable quickly (days, not weeks), as it's a high level of solvent in your fuel system. Add another full tank treatment at the gas station before you fill up and the system should be pretty clean by the end of that tank full.
If this does not do it, yank then out and send them off to a cleaning (rebuilding) service; www.witchhunter.com is well reagarded, but there are many others. They will clean them, replace a few seals, etc and flow test them. Usually, they can restore them to OEM specs for under $20/injector. This will be the same or close to an on-car cleaning, but will be far more effective and you will know if it was successful or not. These services claim to "restore" injectors, but basically, it's a heavy duty cleaning, flow check and replacement of consumable parts.
At 30K, simply adding a good injector cleaner to a full tank of gas is the most you should need to do.
Jack
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I stand corrected.
Prior to now, I've never seen or heard of a electrically actived, gasoline injector that could be disassembled and rebuilt beyond the pintle cap and O-rings.
Sorry!
Jack
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Fuel injector cleaner is BUNK. For the most part fuel is a solvent and injectors don't need to be cleaned. Eventually they need to be rebuilt, but cleaning rarely helps an injector that needs rebuilding.
You DO NOT need to clean your injectors at 30k miles. That's just sillyness.
GD
GD,
Please tell me how injectors are rebuilt, bacause you really don't understand the process?
Injectors are non-serviceable. If you send them off to be rebuilt, they clean and paint them and replace the O-rings. That's the rebuild. These guys, regarless of the name, are very well respected in the industry. Check out what they say. http://www.witchhunter.com/
My 02 Leg GT was popping CL's for an O2 sensor and had soot in the tail pipe. Some agressive injector cleaner usage solved the issue.
Jack
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Just another possibility it could be the bearing on the input shaft. If you pay close attention you can hear it in my Legacy, which has 201k on it.
As long as clutch operation stays normal and the noise does not get tremendously louder... don't worry about it.
Exactly! It could go for years as it is. My opinion - It's not a serious issue until it starts to change significantly for the worse.
If you are into modifications, this would be the time to start your research though, as the car is saying, "we have a minor issue here".
Jack
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Here's an interesting study which was done over a long period of time on a bunch of NYC taxi cabs,(can't get more extreme than that).
In the end, it looks like there wasn't a lot of difference between expensive synth oils or regular "cheap" no name oils.
Remember, Taxis actually live a easier life than one would think. While they do idle a lot, they have very few cold starts with rich mixtures which wash oil off the cylinder walls and contaminate the oil. The oil is up to temperature most of the time and there is minimal condensation in the engine.
Jack
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all-season plus good snow/ice handling: Nokian WR, almost as good as Blizzaks in snow, a good all-season tire in dry and rain
+1, the Nokian WR is the best All weather tire out there. It rivals snow tires in winter performance tests.
Disclaimer - I run dedicated snow tires, but have recommended the WR to friends who have been very happy.
BTW - In the snow, I liked driving my 1988 Saab 9000 (FWD) with 4 Nokian Hakka snows better than my 02 Legacy GT with the OEM Bridgestones. Tires are a very important part of the equasion.
Jack
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If you are game for pulling the covers off the seats, there are good aftermarket seat heater kits for about $120/ seat. Then again, JY seats are probably about that cost and easier.
Jack
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Interference vs. non-interference is critical.
Do the belt around the 105 mark, along with the other previously suggested seals, etc. It's cheap insurance.
I broke a belt on a (non-interference) ’72 Chevy Vega GT, but had a spare in my garage, so I walked home, loaded a tool box and the spare (used) belt on the back of my bicycle. I lined up the cam/crank marks, engaged the ribs on the pulley and started the belt onto the cogged pulleys. Bumping the engine walked the belt completely onto the cogged pulleys. I loaded the bike in the back and drove home. I didn’t even need a tool beyond the one socket needed to pull the cover off the front of the engine. I probably should have adjusted the belt tension . . . . . . . .
I miss simple engines.
Jack
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I've used a spray bottle. It's hard to add too much. Cleaning may take a little longer though as less water is being added at any one time.
Jack
2003 LLbean OBW- crappy handling
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Dave,
If the suspension checks out OK and you are running standard tire pressures in those Graspics, try upping it 5-8 psi all the way around.
Snow tires have notoriously soft side walls to work well in snow and the extra pressure helps out a great deal with handling, while affecting the snow performance minimally.
Jack