larrygs71

Cleaned out the TB, it was pretty dirty. we'll see if it does the trick. It was a easy job. thanks for the advise. will post results in a day or two.\ larry

The TPS does look like it has been worked on. maybe it is the culprit. larry

The crazy thing is why does the idle go crazy after i shut the car down for a brief time period then drive it again warm? Is there something that is getting messed up while it sits hot? Can the throttle position sensor do this?. I will clean the neg battery teminal and engine ground connections. larry

Need help please. 96 outback, 2.2L, MT. 56K miles. Idles fine when cold and slightly warm 600 rpm. But after driving 20 minutes or so if i stop and run into the store then the idle goes wild. It will jump up to 1200 to 1800 rpm. sometimes i can kick it down with the gas usually not. i just replaced the IAC valve with a brand new OEM replacement no change. Unhooked the battery for an hour no change. Vacuum is 21 inches off the intake manifold. I am not getting a CEL. What should i check next? i have read things about the alternator, this is an Indiana built car and A flash update from subaru. Has any one with a 96 2.2L had this problem and fixed it? Larry Muskegon Mi

had the same problem with my 99 forester. plus there are many others reported here. drained my atf. refilled took like 4 qts plus a pint. drove it 2 weeks 200 miles repeated process plus changed spin on tranny filter with original subaru filter. refilled with atf took like 6 qts. no problems in last 9000 miles. the first drain/refil seem to fix the problem. but you a lot of atf remains after one drain. larry

i have a 99 forester with 70k on it. lots of problems in the last year. replaced rear oil seperator cover (need to pull tranny) to fix horrid oil leak. replaced rocker gaskets to repair oil leak. need to replace front cam seals to fix oil leak. replaced pass rear wheel bearing. at hesitates shifting into D. replaced front pass cv boot. dont buy a 99. will make you appreciate GM. larry

i wouldnt do it. i bought a 99 forester in june with 60k on it. i have had AT issues (delayed shift into D from P), rear oil seperator leak had to pull tranny to fix, failed CV joint right front, leaky rocker covers, and now my rear wheel bearings are failing. the 2.5 dohc engine you are looking at has major head gasket issues. you will be trading for a maintenance head ache. Unless you dont mind spending big $$ for repairs. i wouldnt pay more than $7500 for it and anticipate the repairs if you want the AWD. larry

Will a Legacy rear hub assembly bolt onto a forester? How hard is it to pull the rear bearing housing? The local subaru dealer wants $400 per wheel to r&r one bearing, they want $85 to press out the old bearing and press in the new if i supply the bearings/seals. Now that i fixed my bad oil seperator cover leak i am tackling my rear wheel bearings. my 99 forester sounds like i am running super swampers. larry muskegon, mi

This forester has only 69k on it! now its time to fix the howling rear wheel bearings. Subaru seems to be going the way of GM when it comes to reliablity and maintenance. if not for the way it handles and goes thru the snow and two tracks i would sell it. larry

My 99 forester was pouring engine oil, 1 drip per minute, out of the rear main seal area. It turned out to be the plastic oil seperator cover near the rear main. Had to pull AT to replace with a new $10 aluminum cover. If you need a subaru mechanic in west michigan Gomery's in Muskegon, Mi did this for $280 and did a great job. the subaru dealer wanted $680! larry muskegon, mi

It is a AT car. I have the head areas nice and clean underneath. Do not see any dripping oil from the head area or from the timing belt/cam areas I think it has to be the the rear main or separator plate. Do AT cars have this plate? thanks again larry Muskegon, Mi

Does the engine need to be pulled for this? thanks Larry

2.5 L sohc, 68,000 miles. Leaking Oil badly from above the oil pan on the rear of the engine. Could this be the rear main seal or something else? A drip every minute or so. I cant see exactly were it is coming from. any suggestions? are the rear mains a known problem area? thanks Larry Muskegon, mi

i agree with that. i bought this forester with 61500 on it and i am sure the atf was never touched in 6 years. larry

Hello, my 99 forester with 62k was delaying going into drive from p,n or r. I followed mwatt's advice. solved my delay problem. my atf was discolored yellow/brown and smelled bad. drained it the first time 4qts 1 cup came out. same amount of new dextron iii went in. this helped the problem out in itself after only 10 or so miles of driving. drove it a week about 180 miles. drained the pan then pulled the screw on atf filter. 6 qts 1.5 cups drained out total. torqued on new subaru atf filter $40 to 120 in-lbs. added 6.25 qts new atf fluid. tranny shifts like new and no hesitation going into D. If you guys have this problem try this b4 spending big $ on rebuilding the tranny. This is a easy job to do yourself, will cost about $60. you will need 11 qts of atf.