tjay460

VSS2 was tough to remove on my car as it was held in with blue locktite and there was barely enough room to swing the wrench enough to get one flat and another bite with the wrench. I finally got it by sticking with it and intermittantly venting frustration. Replacing VSS2 cured the idle issues and speedo issues.

Sounds like some sort of spring problem.. Tear apart and repair as required.. If you break it go to the wrecking yard and get another one.

Here is the address for rock auto: http://www.rockauto.com/

Soobie is fixed. Got a used speed sensor at the wrecking yard for $35.00. Also i found that if you look up your part on rock auto and then click the part # it will tell you what cars it fits. The yard I was at didn't know that I could use the sensor out of a 1998 forrester. Thanks for all of the input! By the way my neutral switch would only bench test about every third time so I do think I needed both.

Here is an update. I replaced the neutral switch and it has improved my situation. Engine will not die or idle rough. I noticed that the speedo was bouncing between 10 and 20 mph and the car ran like a top. Then the speedo stopped altogether again and shortly i got a CEL and P1507. Is there a simple way to check the VSS to differentiate between a bad speedo or bad VSS? Neither one is cheap and I don't want to be wrong. Thanks!

1997 legacy outback 189,000 miles 2.5l manual transmission My speedometer was bouncing and now it has quit all together. The engine will also die or idle very rough after driving approx 2 miles. It also has low power. If you shut it off and try again it will run like a top for another 2 miles. The only dtc code is P1507. When I clear it it comes right back with a check engine light after driving 2 miles. Someone told me to replace the neutral switch on the transmisson for the idle issue but that the speedo issue is separate. I think it is funny that both started at the same exact time. Stranger things have happened though. Anyone had this? Thanks

Well, I got the door panel off. It was actually easy. I just popped it loose at the top and pulled it down far enough to reach the rods that work the lock mechanism. Here is what I found. The actuator rod for the exterior handle had fallen off the upper pivot and jammed the power lock mechanism. This meant that the exterior handle was disconnected and the door was permanently locked. I removed the rod and found that the little plastic bushing with the rod retainer had broken, causing the rod to fall off in the first place. I should be able to have it fixed when the $2.00 bushing arrives. At least I can now open it from the inside until I get the part. Thank you all for your I ideas and help!

Thanks for the ideas everyone, I have been busy and not on line the last day or two. I'll let you know what finally works even if that means the cutting torch. It figures that the stuck side is not the side a dog chewed the armrest up on. Oh well.

Hello all you Subie nuts. I have a '97 Legacy Outback Wagon. The right rear door is stuck shut and will not open. It would appear that the lock mechanism has gone haywire and will not unlock. I cannot remove the door panel with the door shut and I cannot seem to snag any release mechanisms when reaching through the space with the window rolled down. Looking at the lock rod it does not move when the lever is moved and I cannot move it with a piece of coat hanger. The lock lever on the door is springy and feels stuck. The inner door release feels like it is also bound, but does move through the full stroke when moved. The outer door handle feels disconnected or loose like they feel when the doors are locked. Any help would be appreciated.

My '97 outback had a loose heat shield right near the engine. A hose clamp stopped the rattle.

Hello all, I have just moved to a new city and do not know of a good subaru mechanic. Of course when you talk to any import shop they are all experts. Do you think the dealer is my best bet if the independents look shaky? I talked to two of them here (Great Falls, MT) and was not impressed with cleanliness etc. I need to have the head gaskets done on my '97 ouback wagon. I have bubbles in the burp tank and a positive dye test that these bubbles are exhaust gasses. Any Ideas? Thanks in Advance