Hi,

 

So I'm investigating the best way to repair my 1995 legacy wagon with a leaking head gasket. I don't particularly want more power or anything, just a long-lasting reliable engine.

 

option 1: just pull the existing ej22 and replace the head gasket. Timing belt, water pump, thermostat have all been done recently so shouldn't be much to do except the gasket.

1a: coolant conditioner? The gasket leak isn't causing overheating right now in my test drives, just bubbles in the coolant overflow. But I'm off on a long trip this summer, and have time to do the fix right so I'm less likely to consider this option.

 

option 2: I've got an EJ253 from a 2000 R.S. that has about 170k miles on it. Ran fine when removed, the owner just put in something souped up. Suggested I rebuild before putting it back in, but that's just common sense not because he knew of anything wrong.

 

I'm leaning toward option 2, mostly because I can do the work on the new engine while I continue to drive the car. This is based off a number of assumptions that I'd love confirmed before I dig into the work:

 

1) both are "phase 2" SOHC engines so wiring and sensors ought to just plug in (ack, not sure this is true. I thought an original EJ22 from 1995 was phase 2, but just read elsewhere that phase 2 started in 1997, which is right?Does it matter to me?)

2) engine mounts, transmission, headers etc. will all just plug and play

3) even though the EJ253 is slightly bigger it should just slide into the existing space

4) scared of the head gasket leaking issue on the EJ253, but hear that the 11044AA642 gasket set will largely eliminate this problem. Is the EJ253 going to be as reliable as the existing EJ22?

 

Since I don't know much about this particular EJ253 I'd probably replace timing belt, water pump, oil pump, thermostat while I'm in there. Don't know that I'd do much beyond that, though. Are there other parts I ought to replace?

 

I'd love opinions and gotchas. Thanks!

 

--Derek

If you want reliability stick with the EJ22. EJ25's have head gasket, piston slap (though that's benign), and far more internal bearing issues. Just picked up a Legacy GT last week with a seized motor, they're rather easy to find.

 

If you want a few more horsepower go with the EJ25.

 

Your 2000 EJ25 is not a plug and play swap, that needs to be an earlier Phase I DOHC EJ25. You'd have some trickier to play with to get it to work, it's not easy. I don't think anyone here has tried yet, it's hardly worth it really considering it'd be simpler to just sell that one and get a DOHC.

 

Your 2000 EJ25 is not a plug and play swap, that needs to be an earlier Phase I DOHC EJ25. You'd have some trickier to play with to get it to work, it's not easy. I don't think anyone here has tried yet, it's hardly worth it really considering it'd be simpler to just sell that one and get a DOHC.

 

It's been done. (mellow65 had a phase II motor in his rally lego)

 

Swap cam gear and harness from the phase I Legacy engine. Only real issue is the IAC.....which can be plugged. You just need to hold your foot on the gas to warm it up for about 30-60 seconds before it will idle.

 

 

That is if you wanted to do this swap.....which you don't. You already have the most reliable, non interference, EJ out there. 95 you may even have the roller rocker valve train. Rebuild what you got.

Thanks. It sounds like I just need to rebuild what's in there.

 

Since it's a fairly high mileage engine is there anything aside from oil pump and gaskets that should be on my "must do" list? (no problems with the oil pump, btw, I just keep hearing that it's something I should do while I have it apart...)

Not sure how many miles on the EJ22 but assuming it's in decent shape you probably have another 100,000 or 200,000 miles out of it if you're going over it completely. Hopefully it wasn't ran hot very much, that's not good for metals?

 

I'd plan on doing everything...head gaskets (I'd use Subaru head gaskets on this engine), valve covers, crank and cam seals, cam orings, and an ebay timing belt kit and a water pump. that's basically what i do to all of them that i do. good til the next tbelt change, then just install another belt or another timing belt kit again off ebay - at $80 for everything it's a killer deal.

 

If you're going to have the engine for awhile and put some miles on it, clean the EGR out and remove and clean the rust off the bottom of the knock sensor while the engine, is apart and replace the PCV too. those are minor since it's all doable in the car and doesn't cause any particularly terrible problems but they can give check engine lights over time as they degrade.

 

thaks Gloyale, now i might vaguely recall him doing that swap.