Hi everyone, i have a 1999 legacy outback limited with a bad 2.5 motor and i have a 1999 legacy with a good 2.2 motor both are automatics what kind of problems will i have to swap engines ?

not going to happen if you're in the US. there's a lot of complications to that swap.

 

the 99 OBW EJ25 is a Phase I DOHC.

the 99 EJ22 is a Phase II SOHC EJ22.

those two engines are not easy swaps in this case.

 

Had the DOHC EJ25 been a Phase II (offered in the Forester and RS in 1999) or the EJ22 been a Phase I EJ22 (1998 and earlier) this would have been easy - plug and play.

 

What you could do is make sure that your 99 is a Phase I - meaning DOHC or dual overhead cam - easily distinguished by the double cam circles on top of each other on the left and right timing belt covers.

 

And make sure your 99 EJ22 is a Phase II - there's probably a few ways the only one that's coming to me right now is that the spark plugs come through the valve cover gaskets verses out of the "top" of the engine (head) so to speak.

 

I doubt the changes actually happens between Dec 31 and Jan 1st. I've always wondered how that works but I'm betting there's some bleed in either direction so best to make sure.

Yes the ej25 is dohc and the ej22 has plugs through the valve covers dob 11/98 doesnt look good

Thanks for the input i should have asked before i bought both cars.

Yes the ej25 is dohc and the ej22 has plugs through the valve covers dob 11/98 doesnt look good

oh good, nice work. unfortunately that's not a straight forward swap though.

 

if you have the complete vehicles you can entertain the idea of a complete engine swap - meaning wiring harness, ECU, splicing a few wires, etc. doubt it's worth it though but i don't know what you're after.

I put a 99 2.5 sohc forester engine in a 98 forester which came factory with 2.5 dohc, but had 2.2 in it when I bought it. Dropped motor in to find out the plugs wouldnt connect between engine and car. Popped pins outta connecters and swapped them from the 2.2 harness- wires stretched tight everywhere cuz 2.2 smaller, but the car runs. Doesn't idle good (surges between 750 and 1500rpms constantly) This is due to the 99 engine regulating its Idle Air Solenoid circuit solely thru its computer, whereas on the other engine, half the idling is controlled thru vacuum somehow on the intake manifold. (got like 4 or 5 wires on I.A.S. plug on 99 harness, as opposed to 2 or 3 on 98s harness. Tracing out the wiring, and drilling out intake for a vac port and using diaphragm from other setup might work, but for now I've been driving for 1 year like it is and gotten sorta used to the surging takeoffs...(I am seeking a 98 2.5 DOHC near WV or pay 2 ship)...1roughneck@gmail.com

Well i do have both cars, it may be worth it do you antisipate any big problems in a total switch over ?

Well i do have both cars, it may be worth it do you antisipate any big problems in a total switch over ?

not sure if 1roughneck has a check engine light or not, but in our state of WV that doesn't matter. in many states it does. i'd check that to see if you get a check engine light or not.

Well i do have both cars, it may be worth it do you antisipate any big problems in a total switch over ?

not sure if 1roughneck has a check engine light or not, but in our state of WV that doesn't matter. in many states it does. i'd check that to see if you get a check engine light or not.

 

i'd also ask if he has a manual or automatic. automatics may be less forgiving. i swapped engines in my legacy and have since swapped ECU's, TCu's, and other stuff to get it to shift better but to no avail - the trans just doesn't seem to shift when it's supposed to. still a daily driver and runs fine - but i'd stick with the right engine unless there's a very compelling reason not too.

We got around the IAC problem by swapping the Phase I throttle body onto the Phase II intake, with a block off plate sandwhiched between to block the port for the IAC on the throttle body. the 4 bolt holes line up excactly.

 

Plugged in a phase I IAC body just ziptied to the manifold, but connected electrically to dummy the CPU so no codes.

 

Also, Phase II Injector wire connectors needed to be soldered onto the Phase I harness.

 

Use the Phase I coil. One mounting bolt is fine. ***you'll need to swap Phase I style end clips onto the Phase II spark plug wires to fit the Phase I coil.*** Wires will be tight but will work.

 

Engine will need a few seconds of held throttle to idle on cold morning, but after that it will run smooth and idle smooth.