I have looked at the numerous posts including using the modified Toyota solenoids instead of the unreliable oem Subaru solenoids and I have a question.

 

I have a 1991 Loyale,automatic 2wd non turbo with rough idle but runs fine otherwise. While changing another part I broke the purge control solenoid valve (broke the vent probe off). I mistakenly ordered a EGR solenoid valve(they look very similar). I realized I ordered the wrong solenoid when I installed it and the car had the rough idle. Before I damaged the original purge control solenoid the car ran fine. Are these solenoids that different or could I have received a defective solenoid?

The physical appearance of the solenoids' differences would be the orientation of the nipples. I would think they would work the same. Do you have a check engine light for one? Suppose the wiring to it is bad.

 

The purge control can be eliminated if you are not subject to emissions tests. It really was an after-design from the original design to make specs for the U.S. market.

No, my cel is not illuminated. If I replace the purge control solenoid, do you think that will resolve the idle problem?

I don't really understand what the purge control solenoid does (aside from controlling purges ). My CEL light has been on ever since I got the car, and the code points to the purge control solenoid. But I have always passed emissions here in Oregon. Is it worth it to get one from the junkyard next time I am there? Does it have any noticeable effect on the engine? If it makes it smoother or more efficient then I will get one, but if it is simply for emissions then I am not so sure since I have always passed.

I just installed a new oem purge control solenoid and new oem plug wires, it helped the idle a little. However, the idle is still rough. The CEL is not illuminated and I don't have any error codes in "D check mode"(Green test connectors connected and ignition on). I only have "7" long flashes which is the identifying code for 49 state ECM per the FSM.

 

I checked the valve timing and it is correct per the FSM. I put the engine at TDC at the "0" indicator (not the valve timing marks)on the flywheel, and when I removed the distributor cap, the rotor was pointed at the #1 cylinder. What is strange is that the distributor seems to be retarded almost to the end of its adjustment range(counter-clockwise). When I retarded or advanced the distributor the car idled worse or not at all.

 

Does anybody have any suggestions?

Edited March 5, 201115 yr by Moto7man

Maybe you knocked off the vacuum canister line. Easy to do, easy to miss. It connects on the left side of the intake, and go to the vacuum canister. If your heater vents only work in the dahs vents, then this would be the problem.

 

Just a suggestion