:mad::mad:1995 Subby legacy,,,,No rad fans. Faulty relay found and replaced. No effect. pulled plugs from fans, jumpered, both fans work jumpered. Pluged Pegisys in to OBII port ran for codes, no comm w/ ECM (Communication Error?). Ran two other options ls, and base, same results. Where is the fan/temp sender (Component location)? Pulling hair out. ECM failier? Anyone have any idea's?

Don't have much time to help, but you can download the FSM for 95 from here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Sounds like the temp sensor switch to me. Sorry I don't know where it is on a Legacy.

 

If it has 2 wires it should be a switch for the + side of the fan. Test both wires for +12v with key ON, one should be hot, and the fans should run when the other is given juice.

 

If it has 1 wire, it is a switch for the - side of the fan, and it grounds the wire when the fan should run. Test the fans by grounding the wire with the key ON.

Edited February 25, 201115 yr by nickolai

Do the fans run at all with the AC or defrost on and the blower fan running? If they don't, it may be bad wiring and not the temp switch that is the problem.

There are (if I remember correctly) no fewer than three relays which control the fans in a '95 legacy. There are also two separate fused circuits. There's a fuse under the hood for one of them, and there's also a fuse in the fusebox by the Driver's side kick panel.

 

You're going to have to do some circuit tracing, check both fuses, check the relay drive signal coming from the ECM, etc.

The temp switch is located under the intake manifold on the passenger side of the motor. This is the best picture I could find to help out. I labeled the big stuff so you can identify where it is at. This is looking down on the motor from the passenger side fender. You'll need a deep 19mm to remove the sensor, it has the brown connector on it, and it's a pretty common failure. I'm not familiar with the scanner your using, but if you can check live data with it you can read the coolant temp and see if it's close to what it should be, or if it's reading way too cold.

No comm w/ ECM is usually a pretty good indicator of ECM failure. Not always, but usually.