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How big a job to replace suspension bushings

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1999 Forester, seems like it would benefit from suspension bushings, tie-rod ends, or steering rack mount. Lots of drivetrain noise transferred into body. Tranny and diff aok, Don't know about driveshaft. No vibration, but general looseness compared to my 97 Legato (Legacy Auto).

 

How would you decide what to do first? And do you need a press to do it, or will an arbor press work?

 

I've done 4 struts and balljoints in one day, so I'd like to have alll the parts on hand and avoid multiple trips to the parts store. What would you buy and from where?

 

Thank in advance. Mpergielwalkermi99forester08forester97legato

Give everything a good looking over first. Worn tie rod ends/ball joints can be identified by using large pliers to compress the joint, or a prybar to pull the joint apart while watching for movement. Movement in the joint indicates play/looseness which would normally warrant replacement.

 

Bushings tend to dry out and crack and can fall apart. Use a prybar to push the control arms around. Jam it between the control arm and frame to get leverage.

The rear bushings on the front control arm are filled with silicone fluid. They crack and the fluid will leak out then the bushing collapses and will cause it to clunk around. It looks like heavy grey grease.

 

Steering rack bushings are easy to tell if they are bad. Are they covered in grease and oil? Probably are and have been for quite some time. They're not too difficult to replace, takes maybe 30 minutes by just removing the clamps on the rack. Polyurethane is a preferred choice for those since it is less susceptible to damage from oil contamination. You can get a set of bushings made by Whiteline on Ebay for around $35 shipped usually.

Yoi may need a shop press and or acetylene torch to remove the olds bushings. It can be a big job, since ou are into as much work as replacing the parts to get them off the car, just to have to do all the bushings.

 

Tis is most true if you live in a rusty/road salt winter environment.

Otherwise, breaking down the parts should be straight forward, but the rear knuckle is going to be near impossible to remove, as any fastener you wish to remove is behind another part, and then you will find yourself taking EVERYTHING off the hub to get the first bolt, starting with pulling the axle and hub, the backing plate/brake, and then going from there.

 

It would almost be eaisier to get a whole junkyard unit with the lateral and trailing links from the yard, rebuilding that, and then swapping out the whole unit on the car.

  • Author

Thanks.

 

I've already had all the knuckles off for bearings and struts, so I hope it's not much more than that (besides the pressing). I'm leery of putting a torch to old suspension parts. I'm gonna start with rack bushings, since steering seems looser than Legato. Now to figure if it's 25 or 30mm.

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