So how hard can it be to time one of these things, anyway? I warmed it up, idle was at 720rpm, grabbed the light, and the painted mark I put on 20 degrees BTDC was jumping all over. New HG job, wires, dist cap are a year old, plugs are brand new.

Increase the rpm and the timing light smooths out. Mpg is down to 28.3 from 31 on the road since new HG job. Vacuum leak or something, maybe?

loose timing belts can make the setting the timing very difficult.

 

do you have the test connectors (green unplugged ones on firewall) connected?

No, I don't have the green connectors connected. Frankly, I am not sure how to use those. The reason for the confusion is that I have asked several Subaru gurus how to read the codes and every single one of them gives me a different answer. Plus, the book and the gurus differ on where the plugs are. Hence, they just sit there unplugged. Should I plug something in before trying to time it? I installed brand new Gates timing belts, too. They are adjusted tight. The timing light flashes are very easy to read once the rpm's are raised a little. It's just at 700 rpm idle that it bounces all around. I appreciate the help. cnc

you need to connect the connectors at the firewall (read more about it in the FSM) to lock ignition timing at base timing (20 btdc) the jumpiness you see is normal, and is the ecu adjusting timing. if it is still jumpy with the timing locked, you have an issue.

Definetely make sure you don't have a vacuum leak..

check hoses for dryrot cracks... Listen for hissing/whistling.

for now just get the revs up enough to set the timing to

specification... I was timing mine last night.... it really

doesn't like to run anywhere but 20 btdc.... even at

like 10btdc is chugs...

Cnc- it's the green 2 wire connectors above the brake booster/steering column area of the firewall. You and I are almost in sync on projects, I just timed the 92 loyale I am working on last night post head gasket replacement.

 

Remember to unplug them when you go for your test spin or it will flag a check engine light

 

hth

plugging the green connectors holds the timing static to adjust the initial timing. It works the same as plugging the vac line on a mechanical disty.

 

Check into testing or replacing the engine temp sensor, the 2-wire unit with the green plug on the thermostat housing.

 

Also, be sure to clean the MAF with an approved product. Avoid using brake cleaner. Use CRC MAF cleaner if you can find it.

 

Do your vents work? If they only blow out the dash, there is a loose vac line that is easy to miss coming from the passenger strut to the intake. It is easy enough to knock loose just poking around.

A couple other things I've found in my time that can cause jumpiness (besides the green connectors. If those are connected, check a couple other things).

 

1. Is your timing light connected to the right plug? It's easy to spot the right plug and grab the wrong wire.

 

2. Is the setting on your light (if it can be adjusted) set correctly? Some lights are adjustable.

 

3. Loosen the disty and slowly swivel it around from end point to end point. If it is too far advanced or retarded, the timing light may skip, jump, or just appear in the wrong spot.

 

Not all these things will cause a bouncy 'spot', but it doesn't hurt to check them anyway.

Thanks! I will

1: plug the greens together and check timing with light set to 0 degrees. I'll look for the 20 degree mark.

2: I'll look for that potentially unhooked vacuum line between the passenger strut and the engine. I'll also check vacuum there, as well. May be a clue.

3:I'll look for MAF (Mass Air Flow??) cleaner and hose it down.

4:I'll check the vent controls. I think they were working fine.

5: Fix the Check-Engine light with some duct tape over it. It's been on for a year or two.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif Word on the street is that the light comes on for no good reason, usually.

cnc

Thanks! I will

1: plug the greens together and check timing with light set to 0 degrees. I'll look for the 20 degree mark.

2: I'll look for that potentially unhooked vacuum line between the passenger strut and the engine. I'll also check vacuum there, as well. May be a clue.

3:I'll look for MAF (Mass Air Flow??) cleaner and hose it down.

4:I'll check the vent controls. I think they were working fine.

5: Fix the Check-Engine light with some duct tape over it. It's been on for a year or two.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif Word on the street is that the light comes on for no good reason, usually.

cnc

 

MAF=Mass Air Flow Sensor, correct. It is on the big hose coming off the big metal boot housing the air filter.

 

Cover the CEL, no problem, but do double check on the ECU that there isn't a reason it's on. Take a gander at the side of the ECU and you'll see a peep hole with an LED in it that will blink a code or series of codes at you when the key is in 'start' or 'run'. The long blinks are tens, the short are ones. So three long and four short is '34'. There is a cheat sheet to the codes in the Chilton's/Haynes manuals as well as online. Six short blinks alone are "all clear".

Hooking the green connectors together smoothed it right out and I moved the timing a little. Now to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF). I'll try to read the codes. Tried it before, but conflicting instructions stopped me. I don't think I have much of a vacuum leak, because all of the defrost/heat/bi-level controls work fine. I could check the vacuum. What should I see at idle? Thanks very much for the help. cnc