devilbanjo Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Well I was following the PDF's for reading the trans codes in the following link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19805 I went to plug in the shorting plug into pin #5 but test plug was a different shape than what was shown in the document. The plug was orange and the wire was yellow with a red stripe Plug orientation as i did it: 12345 67..89 Well ignition was turned on and shortly after i noticed the smoke and quickly shut off the ignition... damage done. shorting plug wire was melted and now the car will not start. So am assuming I dead shorted the TCU... but if that is the case why no start? AT light now stays on constant (no flashing) no CEL engine cranks but no fire all fuses under hood and by left side kick panel ok 97 legacy 2.2 with AT Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as well as a lead on a cheap used TCU. HA! Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 AT light on means TCU is good, or at least powering up. No CEL however means the ECU may not be. Double and triple check all fuses and fusible links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilbanjo Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Well I am a total dip... I feel nauseous as I haven't done anything this stupid in a long while. I found the correct plug to test... unfortunately does anybody know what the orange plug is that I plugged into is connected to? and or any fuseable links that might be associated? 12345 67.89 Wires are: #1 Black w/red #2 Empty #3 Empty #4 Empty #5 Yellow w/red #6 Red #7 Aqua w/red #8 Green w/white #9 Empty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 I went to plug in the shorting plug into pin #5 but test plug was a different shape than what was shown in the document. The plug was orange and the wire was yellow with a red stripe Plug orientation as i did it: 12345 67..89 Yeah, wrong connector. Should be connector B82, 6 pins like this 1 .. 2 34 56 Blue w/yellow stripe wire, pin 5. connects to pin 6 on B56 of the TCU plug. Seems like you used connector B78, ......Labeled "Yellow", "data link" connector. Pin 5 of that connector is Yellow/red......switched power straight from Ig. relay. Provides power to the O2 heaters, pressure switching valve, and purge solenoid. That circuit is not directly connected to ECU...not as a power supply to it anyhow. So it's possible you just smoked the IG relay. Test the theory by applying turning the key to "on". Then, apply 12v positive to that same wire (yellow/red pin 5 of yellow data connector). That should power up the ECU, lighting the CEL. This will bypass the relay. If that works, then dig the relay out of the upper left corner of the dash, and replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Slow Blow Fuse under the hood in the middle of the fuse box. 30A right next to the "spare fuse" sockets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilbanjo Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Gloyale, You sir are a prince among men. Supplied 12v and it fired up. If you are ever in the SW Ohio area please count on me for several pints. Any hints to ignition relay location before I start hunting through forums (i am manual less on this one), if not, many thanks. Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Gloyale,You sir are a prince among men. Supplied 12v and it fired up. If you are ever in the SW Ohio area please count on me for several pints. Any hints to ignition relay location before I start hunting through forums (i am manual less on this one), if not, many thanks. Karl Well, check that fusible link that supplies it first......it's the one most "in the middle" of the under hood fusebox. IF that's good.....gotta be the relay......it's Way up in the highest corner of the drivers side of the dash. It's brown, with 6 wires...mounted to a bracket with another 4 wire relay w/green connector(fuel pump relay) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilbanjo Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) Fuses were fine so I went and got an ignition relay. Pulled the relay (not the easiest to get to for sure) and it measured ok but put the new one in to check and I still have the problem. I checked all fuses in the engine bay panel and by the driver kick panel and everything checks out. When I apply voltage to the #5 pin i hear the fuel pump come on and what i assume is the fuel pump relay. Any other ideas... or by chance does anyone have a wiring diagram I could check out? -Karl Edited May 21, 2012 by devilbanjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Check the fusible link in the underhood fuse panel. It's the thing that looks like a wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilbanjo Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Checked the fusible link already. Any hints to where I could get a wiring diagram so i could diagnose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Have at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilbanjo Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Success! Thanks for the manual! So tracing through the wiring diagram I could see that Gloyale was absolutely correct in his diagnosis, the trouble was that both the relay and the fuse tested ok. So checking voltages at several harness points it showed that I was not getting voltage from the fuse on. So I pulled the fuse and put a jumper where the fuse should be, and everything worked. Inspecting the fuse for the fifth time I noticed that it was indeed blown but close enough that when I pulled it and measured with a meter it read 0 ohms as the two burnt ends would touch. When I reinstalled the fuse in the car the spades would hold the two ends firmly apart, but just barely. My aging eyes could not see into the window to tell that there was a gap when installed in the car. Learned something new. Oh, and I got the transmission error code 24 so I will be ordering a duty solenoid c. Thanks guys, I owe you both a brew. Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.