johncv Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 I bought a 1986 XT about 2 years ago and the clutch went out on it, no big deal, but when we had it apart we wanted to find out what was making a ticking sound, kind of like a stuck lifter. We replcaed all the lifters put the clutch in and it still made the ticking sound, a week later the timing belts went because we didn't tighten up a bolt. About a month or so after we fixed that, a hose burst and the whole motor overheated, and cracked an exhaust port. After searching the junk yards we finally pulled a motor to use the head. We had the heads fully checked out and repaired the valve guides. The car has been running okay for about a month, there has been a slight idle problem, last week after work the car started billowing steam out of the tail pipe again, and according to the temp gauge (stock), the car had always run under half way on the gauge, assuming it didn't get hot, until after it started billowing steam. The only thing we can figure out if the block warped the first time the motor over heated. We have given up on trying to repair this motor and were looking at a complete rebuild, but that is kind of pricey? Anyway down to the questions, has anyone ever purchase a Japanese Import motor that are only suppose to have 30,000 - 40,00 miles on them? Are they worth looking into? After calling several shops I found out that in Japan they do not make my engine, 1.8L dual port Non-Turbo, they are all turbo charged. I found one with a 6 month warrenty and no shippig for $495, is this worth it? If I have to get a turbo motor what will I have to replcace, beside the ECU? Does anyone have a ECU for a turbo motor? Thanks for reading, I really love driving my XT, and would like to save it from the junkyard. The interior is not in the greatest shape and the exterior is okay so it is hard to keep putting money in to it. If it didn't get 27+ MPG, I would even think about fixing it. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjules2001 Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 Hi John, Usually it's the head that warps. You may still have a usable engine. To find out, use a straightedge; hold it flat against the block where the head mounts and see if slide a gadge under it. Then check your heads for straightness. I've seen heads that look good but still need to be machined. So, what I'm saying is that the junkyard head could have been warped before you put it on. Based on my own experience, I am more likely to use a fully reconditioned head than a junkyard head. The ECU is the same turbo or not. I have never bought Japanese Import motors. Mark in Connecticut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncv Posted May 11, 2004 Author Share Posted May 11, 2004 Thank you, we did have the junkyard heads fully checked and machined before putting them on the motor. How hard is it to swap from non turbo to turbo? What sensors do I need to add and how do I wire up the distributor? I guess they didn't make the MPFI non turbo engine in Japan, so in order to get a Japanese Import motor I have to get a turbo motor (bummer:clap: ). I just don't know how hard it is to swap. Any information on turbo swap would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subdudext6 Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 99% chance if you overheated, one of the heads is cracked or warped. Those XT 4-cylinder heads are notorious for warping and cracking if overheaded. The block is much bigger and is usually pretty bulletproof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjules2001 Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 Hi John, The turbo distributor is different from the non-turbo so you must get a turbo distributor if the the engine does not come with one. Also, find out if the motor comes with the turbo as well! Your Y-pipe will be completely different. So, here's a little checklist: 1. Turbo distributor 2. Turbo 3. Turbo hood (air port) 4. Turbo Y-pipe 5. Turbo fuel pressure regulator 6. Turbo coil/igniter(goes w/distributor) That's a list off the top of my head; I can check my shop manual to be more precise. Mark in Connecticut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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