February 19, 201511 yr i read somewhere in this forum about testing the dist and module tried the search function couldn't find any thing about my year car. i hooked up a test light to the negative side of the coil and the light stayed on steady so i tried the positive side same results,(no pulsing) is that a bad dist,or ign module or ecm because i get no lights to tell me the ecm is going for a self test the fuses are fine or could it be a bad ign switch? i also need a wiring diagram for the a/c-defrost fan, inside, one of the wires was burned up and it was bypassed with 12v from the battery. sorry if this is a lot to ask but i live 50 miles from town and all i have is a chiltons.
February 20, 201511 yr Hello, I have had the same trouble with no-spark and figuring out the search engine. Using the search engine be general and not specific. Then you can see your information. If you search starting problems, or no start. You will see multiple testing procedures. A lot of times I will just Google it and click on the USMB links. As for your no start issue there are multiple common problems. First remove the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is spinning and that there is a little screw holding the rotor in place. This screw likes to fall out and go to the bottom of the distributor. Then look at the distributor carefully and make sure there is no moisture either at the base of the distributor or the underside of the cap. Also make sure the center plunger is in place and in good condition under the cap. With the cap off turn the engine over by had and make sure that the distributor rotor is turning. Then place your test light on the coil and make sure there is power to the coil. Although I doubt it is your coil but that is just a feeling. If you go to your chiltons it will tell you how to test the coil if you really want to. Try these things first and then we will go from there. Cheers, Eric
February 20, 201511 yr Author i tried those procedures and the cap is new,the button is there,i turned the engine over by hand the distributor turns the rotor is tight,and there is power to the coil,but when i crank the engine with the starter the light does not flash,it remains steady,also the fuel pump doesn't kick in for the two seconds to start the car, i have checked all the fuses and fusable links they are all good,im thinking either bad dist orign module. could i use a hei module from a 75 chev,two wires in and two wires out because so far the only place to get a new module that doesn't cost more than the car(100 bucks) is the wrecking yard
February 20, 201511 yr ior ign module or ecm because i get no lights to tell me the ecm is going for a self test the fuses are fine or could it be a bad ign switch? No lights on ECU means no power to ECU or ECU is fried. I have been seeing more of this lately. Main Resitor on the power board labeled "R1" burns out. Look at the ECU itself and see if the code light (not the CEL) is on with key on.
February 21, 201511 yr Author i will try that.the fuses are ok but no light in the ecm, it is the original from 88 and i am not sure how long they last Edited February 21, 201511 yr by soopsoop
February 21, 201511 yr Hey Just for KIcks. Disconnect your main round harness plugs,blow out with air and push tightly together and ziptie. Cheers, Eric
February 22, 201511 yr Author ok i will try that. where are you at in spokane so i can pick your brain some more i live 35 miles south of spokane.
February 23, 201511 yr Guess what I light 35 miles north of you....LOL. Did you get it runnin? Cheers, Eric
February 26, 201511 yr Author not yet i think the ecu is fried i will try to pick one up at pull and save payday the p.o. has 4 kids band i have found soda pop residue everywhere.
April 9, 201510 yr Author had to go back twice to get the right ecm it has power now to the ecm not sure about ground,are they grounded through the case or is it seperate?
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