Yes, I know there are hundreds of these. Please bear with me. I was finally able to get some TCU codes from the computer, as I realized it wasnt my duty C solenoid since all my problems went away with a FWD fuse in. Heres the codes I got: 23, 32, 22, & 16. My car will shut off driving down the road with no warning, no sputtering, just off, so these codes support my theory. HEre is what they mean from the list I have found for phase I cars.

 

Phase I codes(roughly 1998 and earlier)

• 11 Line pressure duty solenoid. Short or Disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 12 Lockup duty solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 13 2-4 brake timing solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 14 Shift solenoid B. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 15 Shift solenoid A. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 16 2-4 brake duty solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 21 ATF temperature sensor. Short or disconnection in input circuit
• 22 Pressure sensor. Short or disconnection in input circuit
• 23 Engine speed signal. No signal input above 10km/h
• 24 Transfer duty solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit
• 25 Engine torque control signal. Short or disconnection in engine torque control signal circuit
• 31 Throttle sensor. Short or disconnection in input circuit
• 32 Vehicle speed sensor 1. No signal input to speed sensor 1 above 20km/h
• 33 Vehicle speed sensor 2. No signal input to speed Sensor 2 above 20km/h
• 34 Turbine sensor. No signal input in ranges other than N range
• 36 Low clutch timing solenoid. Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit

 

Now after some searching, I have found that the engine speed signal is just another name for a Vehicle Speed Sensor's output. Odd thing though, my speedometer works still. Huh.

 

I've tried looking up the 2-4  solenoid and can't find much, but have deduced it's in the tranny, so I will try this option as last resort. I believe I should start with the Speed sensor first, but I need to figure out which sensor is #1 and where it is. I know one of them is locate in the engine compartment, on top of the transmission. The other is on top of the transmission under the car.

 

Finally, the pressure sensor is elusive on the internet as well. So I am lost. What can you all gather from this? Am I pulling codes correctly? Should I upload a video for you all to look at?

 

Thanks,

Jared

This may be one of those with a VSS in the transmission as well as the speedometer.  Also, there is an electronic one in the dash as well with the speedometer (although I hear that one rarely goes bad).

 

Honestly it looks almost like someone unplugged a couple of things and forgot to plug them back in..................

Maybe I should check for that. The last owner had it only for around 10 months, but the owner before him had it for 6 years or so. The last owner was a dealership who drove it occasionally. Lets just say the least trust worthy person on craigslist are generally dealerships.

Besides the connectors themselves look for any grounds that may have been disconnected or broke.

This may sound a little off,  but if you can find a spare, swap out the MAF with a known good one.  My 95  had a MAF problem with the characteristic random stalling.  BUT- a time or two it threw trans codes in the process.  Why, I don't know.  Maybe just the sputtering, stalling, and erratic signals caused the TCM to flip out.

Thanks everyone. I have checked the top V speed sensor that is on top of the transmission up front in the engine compartment passenger side today, and that was connected. I will be checking for vacuum leaks, and getting under the vehicle for an oil change and brake change tonight so I might as well look for the other V speed sensor tonight. I still don't know for sure which one is 1 or 2 but if both are connected then it is probably something else. I will also remove and clean the MDF and I might look in to removing and cleaning the IAC tonight as well. Don't know how intensive that is but if could remove a Ford focus cylinder head in 30 minutes I should be able to remove, clean, and replace an IAC. Will let you know.

So here's what happened tonight. Brakes and oil changed easy peasy. Then it was time to tackle the TCU codes. I first took out the MAF sensor. Clean and reporting good signal. Then the idea of using seafoam came up. I grabbed the procedure from here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118540-idle-air-control-valve-cleaning-problem/

 

If you do wish to clean the IAC, this is the procedure from the FSM

1. Start and warm up engine until radiator fan operates
2. Hold throttle open so engine runs at 2,000 RPM
3. Disconnect bypass hose from IAC
4. Slowly pour one 16 oz can of cleaner (Sea Foam is good) into bypass air hole
5. Leave the engine to run for 5 minutes

When you do this expect lots of white smoke from the exhaust. When you're done don't forget to re-attach the bypass hose to the IAC.

 

 

Oh boy did I get a lot of smoke. Filled up the entire street with the stuff. Now I know some people have had night and day miracle effects and swear by sea foam, but I've just never had that happen, it's always been a mechanical problem in another car. Well today I've been converted and I am here to tell you the good news about this miracle detergent liquid. My car no longer stalls, the shifting is almost not noticeable, hell this thing shifts better than some new cars I've driven with 3 miles on them from the rental car lot (used to clean cars as a part time job; lets just say a 3 mile 2014 Camaro  was a dream). Anyways, hope this helps someone. Check all your vacuum and other air control items before cracking open your transmission or getting to involved.