Fairtax4me Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 The original bolts are torque to yield bolts, but people re-use them all the time. The first few steps up to the "back of 180°" step only seat the gasket in a certain way to help make the gasket crush more even on the final torque steps. That process does not cause the bolts to stretch at all. By the time the process is done the bolts will be torqued to over 100 ft lbs. Even then the bolt stretch is minimal, which is why the Subaru bolts get re-used all the time. Aftermarket bolts may not fare as well to repeated use. The torque procedure in the service manual applies to any head bolt, factory or aftermarket. If the aftermarket bolts required a different procedure that would be included with the bolts. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuw4subie Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 I'm good with the heads back on, properly torqued, intake, etc. Last possible snafu. I took the crankshaft pulley off at TDC and ended up turning it 2 full revolutions before having all timing idler pulleys and camshafts lined up. Got all marks and put on timing belt; released tensioner adjustor to the left and realized I may have not had the crank at TDC afterall, before having everything seemingly situated. Now doing a compression test on Cylinder 1 and getting no build up turning crankshaft with tachet & cheater bar. Does this mean I was at the wrong end of the compression stroke, when I thought I was at TDC? Do I need to do the belt all over again, first getting compression at Cylinder 1 before even being concerned about camshaft oulley timing marks? I hope not but... Thanks again. So close but~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuw4subie Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) Primed it, oil wise, with crankshaft sensor, coil pack, and fuel pump disconnected. Oil light went off. Idled at 3K at 1st start. Turned it off immediately. Started again a few more minutes. Again and let it drop to 1.75K. Ran rough and cut it. Gave it a few minutes break between each start up. Finally started a 4th time and had some smoking from the tailpipe, which I understand initially so is normal from the head cleaning & rocker assembly adjustment & cleaning. But... Only fallout it seems is the passenger side fuel rail wasn't seated properly, as I accidentally removed the bolts that connect it to the manifold. That was first side of the intake I started removing bolts on, as I was doing the tear-down, and realized the error as I worked the other side. Nonetheless, both injectors in this side are unseated as fuel rail is lifted up about .5". Just enough to wreak havok. Fixable but more research. Hopefully just need to replace seals? Any ideas? Edited December 23, 2015 by kuw4subie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 If the whole rail is pulled up, just need to remove it, clean the rail cups, wipe some engine oil on the seals and on the rail and push it back down in. But if the seals are damaged they'll need to be replaced. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ijdelp710 Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 I just redid my 2.5 sohc with gaskets from All Wheel Drive Auto. They sell Six Star brand gaskets and they are actually better than the OEM. A little more money but I mean if you think about it Subaru quality head gaskets is why your replacing them now... Also if your replacing your head gaskets, be sure to do wires, pugs, timing belt, water pump, and as many sensors as you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuw4subie Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 I will do exactly what you're suggesting Fairtax4me. Agreedn hopefully seals are still good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 That fuel rail will likely be your idle issue. Did this once on a motor swap when I installed a fuel rail minus the O rings. Every time I started the motor, it revved way high. Once the seals were installed, it idled nice a smooth. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuw4subie Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 Good news is seals are fine. And there was no leaking before all thisn so I'm good on the injectors & their o-rings. But getting it together? Uhg! Agreed, Adventure Subaru. I trust my idle will be good toon after getting the fuel rail re-situated. Being a lay-person mechanic for such a job has been grueling. And getting this fuel rail reseated properly has been the most difficult part so far is maddening! It's a matter of keeping pressure in having them flush & seated before being able torquing down the bolts at all. I'm looking at C-clamps now. If I could do it all over again, I would pull the engine. Moot point now though. So close too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuw4subie Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 Good news is seals are fine. And there was no leaking before all thisn so I'm good on the injectors & their o-rings. But getting it together? Uhg! Agreed, Adventure Subaru. I trust my idle will be good toon after getting the fuel rail re-situated. Being a lay-person mechanic for such a job has been grueling. And getting this fuel rail reseated properly has been the most difficult part so far is maddening! It's a matter of keeping pressure in having them flush & seated before being able torquing down the bolts at all. I'm looking at C-clamps now. If I could do it all over again, I would pull the engine. Moot point now though. So close too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuw4subie Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 Good news is seals are fine. And there was no leaking before all thisn so I'm good on the injectors & their o-rings. But getting it together? Uhg! Agreed, Adventure Subaru. I trust my idle will be good toon after getting the fuel rail re-situated. Being a lay-person mechanic for such a job has been grueling. And getting this fuel rail reseated properly has been the most difficult part so far is maddening! It's a matter of keeping pressure in having them flush & seated before being able torquing down the bolts at all. I'm looking at C-clamps now. If I could do it all over again, I would pull the engine. Moot point now though. So close too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 Shouldn't have to hold the rail to keep it down. Once it pops into the seals it should stay. If engine oil isnt slick enough, use chassis grease. I often use a prybar on other engines to push injectors and rails back on, but I don't remember there being much on the Subaru to get a purchase on to push Down with. Steady even pressure with a little bit of a wiggle side to side and they should pop on. If you would rather work on tractors we can trade for a few days... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuw4subie Posted December 25, 2015 Author Share Posted December 25, 2015 After over 2 months of work in my friend's driveway, on (clear) nights & weekends, my engine-in head gasket change has been a success!!! Burped the air, changed the oil (which came out like hot cocoa), bled the air for my power steering system, as I changed the o-ring for the reservoir which the after market rebuild kit did not include, and all is well!! Ticking that I did not have before this job has already diminished considerably, which is reassuring, and all is well. Better engine power with lower RPMs under load and no more exhaust displacement of the coolant and consistent heat again. I am sooo relieved. So... 250K miles & counting on this old 94 2.2. Thank again, everyone!! I could not have done this without all your incredibly invaluable feedback & suggestions. Will be signing up for a full paid membership to this forum in the next few days and I hope to give back to others here, as you all have done. Great community. Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays to all. Now I'm heading to NJ& PA to catch up with family. 1st road trip in over 2 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuw4subie Posted December 25, 2015 Author Share Posted December 25, 2015 (edited) And Fairtax4me... Lol! I imagine tractors are lots of fun! No doubt I'd need my steel pipe cheater bar to turn most bolts. Edited December 25, 2015 by kuw4subie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 Fun... yeah... we can call it that... Actually it's not too bad. Most things are fairly accessible. The worst part is that some of the larger parts are very heavy, and some nuts/bolts require large heavy tools. Congrats on a job well done! Some jobs take forever, but when the work is all done and everything is working properly there's no better feeling than to kick back with a beer and bask in the feeling of accomplishment! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuw4subie Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hey Fairtax4me, et al.. Thanks for the congrats. I just wanted to make sure I was/am worthy of such before taking it to heart! And factor in the holidays & 1st road trip. So 550 miles and all is well. It's surreal but soaking in, nonetheless. I'll trust my work better when I pass the 5K mark. Only concern is not having cleaned out the head bolts' threads in the blocks well enough and currently operating on an inaccurate torque spec. Time will tell. Still have a flush to do on the coolant system, new motor mounts, and new gray RTV gasket for the oil pan. But engine, tranny, etc. is good to go. Thank you again. There's no way I could have done this without the collective advice. Happy New Year all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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