November 18, 201510 yr First off, let me say this forum has been a great tool for a complete subaru novice like myself. I cant count how many times I've used these forums to help me through my project. ok, onto where i need help: I was having heating issues in my car; no biggie since i bought it in august and it made a 5 hour trip back to my place no problem. Long story short found out it was the heater control valve that was sticking and not allowing the knob on the console to open and close. I was able to loosen it up and get it to move freely(well freely enough), put back the dash and interior(i wanted to redo the interior and dash anyways so wasnt too mad when i found out the heater core didnt need removed haha) Anyways today fired it up....Heat baby!!! hell yeah, feeling good drove it around for a few minutes and parked it. upon getting out i noticed coolant leaking onto the carpet. Upon further inspection i noticed it was leaking form the control valve and not the heater core itslef. Soooo... with winter right around the corner and many other projects that I need done too.... I'm looking for a quick fix for the leak. I'm debating whether I should just goop around where it seals, or maybe just taking the control valve out and just running hoses to bypass it and just have constant heat in the winter. So basically I'm wondering if anyone has any pics or diagrams on how the valve and heater core lines are ran (on the inside of the car) or how anyone else bypassed it with some pics ... or should i just goop it and say screw it and deal with it later?
November 18, 201510 yr If your car is an EA71 (gen 1) then the valves can be found for under 50 bux. If its an EA81, they are scarce and Ive replaced them with a manual valve under the hood, or a vacuum/electric operated valve. Its not real difficult. Getting the old valve out is a little annoying. I replace the valve with some heater hose (from the core to the firewall). Youll need to penetrate the firewall with tubing, IIRC I cut the brass tubing off the valve its self for this. The only thing that I found is a real snag was hooking up the blend door to the temp control cable was tricky. Youll have to get creative there (I used some zip ties). Since functionality changes, you sorta loose the smooth thermostatic operation after this. Airflow becomes cold, warm, or hot.
November 18, 201510 yr You could always just delete the valve and run without one... Let the blend door do the rest. If its cold where you live this might just work. Manual valve, this is the simplest and most reliable. It requires that you pull over and open the hood to "activate" heat tho. Ford style vacuum operated. This is what Im running on the BRAT. From something like an 1985 Escort. It requires a switch, solenoid and vacuum lines. Possibly even a vac reservoir. Lincoln electronic valve. Try an electronic valve... Ive not tried one and dont know how theyd work. https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/heater-control-valve/lincoln~town-car.html?3594=2215 Edited November 18, 201510 yr by ihscout54
November 19, 201510 yr Author thanks for all the information. I pulled the heater control valve yesterday from the car. I checked and I do have an ea71. Do you have a part# or could you point me in the right direction on where to buy one? Thanks
November 21, 201510 yr The stock valve for a gen 2 (likely what you need) will run you about a hundred bux. Thats a pretty good price, if they actually have one in stock. Ive ordered from them befor, give them your vin and varify its the correct part. http://www.quirkparts.com/oe-subaru/772013041 Or see my above posts... Stock valve for the gen 1 (probably not what you need) its cheap and a bit more available. http://www.ebay.com/itm/77-78-79-Subaru-GL-DL-Brat-1600-1800-Water-Heater-Control-Valve-Cable-OP-NORS-/321079248524?fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ABrat&hash=item4ac1d0868c:m:m36AE3Um3FS8uXUMExrcGYg&vxp=mtr
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now